Predator Pushing Oil Out Valve Cover

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Bunkster

Member
#1
#1
My sons Baja Warrior has a new style Hemi and has a breather attached off the valve cover. The line running to the breather is full of oil and is dripping all over.

The engine has a billet rod, billet flywheel, Mod 2 cam, 22lbs springs, moly push rods, Mikuni carb and a new rear tire. He currently runs a stock jack shaft set up but has used a TC in the past.

I replaced the valve cover since we had a spare but the breather line and breather filled right back up. Any advice what to look for next?

Maybe over filled with oil but doesn't seem to.

He does have an XR50 tire upfront which gives the bike a little more rake, Could that be it?
 
madtom421

madtom421

Member
#2
#2
I put a catch can to the breather on my baja warrior. When me and my buddy get stupid on it doing wheelies and what not we spit oil out the breather. I'm sure the motor angle doesn't help.


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madtom421

madtom421

Member
#3
#3
I also have a hemi, mikuni, mod2, 18lb springs, rod, flywheel with a tav.

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noseoil

noseoil

Active Member
#4
#4
I made a simple one & attached it under the seat. Added a breather filter & it seems to work well enough. It's above the motor, so oil can drop back into the motor if it needs to.
OilB2.jpg
OilB3.JPG
 
ole4

ole4

#5
#5
Nice I am going to copy that in the future. I made one out of aluminum tube but it was big and a pain to mount. Yours does not even need a drain very clever!
 
EVOL Tweety Bird

EVOL Tweety Bird

Active Member
#6
#6
Bunkster, where is the filter in relation to the tube on the valve cover?
I have a similar Hemi build on my T-bird, my filter is mounted above the valve cover, never had any oil reach the filter.
I've since removed the governor, and tapped a second line to where the governor rod was to help eliminate excess blowby coming out of the valve cover.

Granted my engine is angled, but I, my son, and his friends, ride up some serious hills with it, and the filter is still dry.

Thinking if your filter is level or below the valve cover it would cause any oil to flow into the filter. Mounted above the valve cover any oil that accumulates would tend to run back into the head.

I would double check the oil level just to be sure. Could be something as simple as that.
Guessing you're not seeing a lot of smoke from the exhaust, which would be a sign of bad rings.
 

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Daniel Coop

Daniel Coop

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
Interesting... My buddies hemi I put together for him also has also had issues with oil pushing out of the breather after he runs it hard. It also has the Mod 2 cam... That's the only Mod 2 I've messed with, (for good reason) but I haven't had that same issue with any of my other motors which all have different, larger cams. Is it possible the Mod 2 cam somehow builds excess crank pressure in the higher RPM range? I might be totally off, but it seems like a big coincidence if nothing else...
[MENTION=55039]noseoil[/MENTION], cool little catch can. Is that just a pipe T fitting?
 
noseoil

noseoil

Active Member
#8
#8
Just some "Home Delay" PVC fillings, a hose barb, filter & JB-weld for the fastening of dissimilar parts & black rattle can paint. Works pretty well & no issues or problems, even with the modded motor I'm running now (Hemi, Black Mamba, 11:1 piston, etc). Helps to have a line tapped from the governor hole up into the valve cover, to keep the top end lubed at higher rpms, then the stock breather up to the catch can on the frame. No problems with it at this point & seems to work well enough with no puking of oil or leaks.

I'm running some silicone hose now for the higher heat it's making (brewery supply stuff from in town) but it's attached like shown in the picture, just 2 hose clamps at the frame cross-member. Some day I'll have to look at it & see if there's any oil inside there, but if it gets too much, it will just leak down the tube back & into the motor the way it sits now.

OilB1.jpg

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B

Bunkster

Member
#9
#9
Noseoil, EVO, Daniel:

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to have him try the catch can routed above the valve cover. It does seem to happen when he runs it hard.

Noseoil, the idea of running a line back to the governor hole is brilliant. I'm going to work with him on that as well.
 
TheDullCarbide

TheDullCarbide

Active Member
#10
#10
Bunkster said:
Noseoil, EVO, Daniel:

Thanks for the feedback. I'm going to have him try the catch can routed above the valve cover. It does seem to happen when he runs it hard.

Noseoil, the idea of running a line back to the governor hole is brilliant. I'm going to work with him on that as well.
Click to expand...
What rpms do you run on the TAV?
 
EVOL Tweety Bird

EVOL Tweety Bird

Active Member
#14
#14
Switched back to the jackshaft? Everything I've read, and folks I've talked to, have said the TC is way above the jackshaft in performance and speed. I'm about to add one to my CT200u for just that reason.

Almost sounds like something else is going on if it's falling off on speed with the TC.
 
tundrabeagle3

tundrabeagle3

Member
#15
#15
Makes sense since tavs shift to overdrive cutting down rpms. I have experienced this before I run a tav on my offroad bike and a clutch on my street mini bike. The tav makes the bike feel like it has a ton more torque than the street bike but once I am on the street topping the bike out I notice that the tav really limits my rpms.
 
TheDullCarbide

TheDullCarbide

Active Member
#16
#16
tundrabeagle3 said:
Makes sense since tavs shift to overdrive cutting down rpms. I have experienced this before I run a tav on my offroad bike and a clutch on my street mini bike. The tav makes the bike feel like it has a ton more torque than the street bike but once I am on the street topping the bike out I notice that the tav really limits my rpms.
Click to expand...
There is the 7" driven if you want to skip the overdrive or really to cut down on belt slippage (but then you have to choose between a belt that's a little short or a little long but no biggy). Also, if you're looking for more engagement or shifting rpm there's tuning that can be done. Garter springs, aluminum driver weights, drilled driver weights, yellow contra spring, etc. I plan to use beltpalace.com for my TAV2 tuning beyond the garters I already have.

I've thrown this sheet around a bit. Stock TAV setup is zinc weights with blue garters (2200rpm):

View attachment Comet Garter Chart.png
 
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TheDullCarbide

TheDullCarbide

Active Member
#17
#17
EVOL Tweety Bird said:
Everything I've read, and folks I've talked to, have said the TC is way above the jackshaft in performance and speed.
Click to expand...
Better in performance and speed in all ways but one:001_rolleyes:...efficiency. As much as I hate to admit it, a fully engaged clutch will beat a TAV2 in a race where ground speed doesn't vary too much. Think of the extra weight, moving parts, and the dang belt all stealing their fair share of energy versus a clutch (which is a flywheel and a sprocket when it's engaged) and a chain.

Now unless you're trying to squeeze that extra 1/10HP out of a race bike that only goes one speed, a TAV2 is the way to go.
 
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