Re-popped Gilson/Wards TAV Jackshaft Bracket (sorta)

Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#1
#1
Had my first follow-up with surgeon today (he's pleased, so I'm pleased), but before I headed to Winchester I finished up a pair of TAV Jackshaft Brackets to install on Copperhead, my "mule" bike. The difference between these brackets is the TAV bearing mount is welded to rather than bolted to the main body of the bracket. Additionally, I used a 1" OD x 3/4" ID sintered bushing for the swing arm rather than the impossible to find oblong bushing. Materials include 3/16" plate stock and 2-1/4" rectangular tubing split in half.

I pre-drilled all the bearing/bushing centers and bolt holes with the matched pairs clamped together. The rough shape was cut with a sawzall (I cut four at a time which I will not do again), then finished with an angle grinder. A Greenlee 1-3/8" carbide tipped hole saw did jackshaft bearing holes and step drills were used for the swing arm (I will get a Greenlee 1" hole saw, if I do this again).



Other photos in attachments...
 

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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#4
#4
Not ever having a Gilson, I don't know the significance of these pieces, but those pretty welds sure caught my eye. Glad to hear a clean bill of health!
 
neo71665

neo71665

Member
#5
#5
Dr. Shop Teacher said:
I'm just playing....trying stuff out before building the ultimate Gilson!:laugh:
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when ya get it all sorted I'll ship mine up there and you can build it for me:bowdown:


Havasu Dave said:
Not ever having a Gilson, I don't know the significance of these pieces, but those pretty welds sure caught my eye. Glad to hear a clean bill of health!
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It's the parts needed to convert a factory clutch to the torque converter setup like the factory did.
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#6
#6
neo71665 said:
It's the parts needed to convert a factory clutch to the torque converter setup like the factory did.
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Thanks for explaining that. Someone mentioned that in a craigslist post I made yesterday about a local Gilson for sale with a TAV. I was commenting on the quality of the welds however. They weren't addressed in the original post, and they are really quite good.
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#7
#7
Havasu Dave said:
Thanks for explaining that. Someone mentioned that in a craigslist post I made yesterday about a local Gilson for sale with a TAV. I was commenting on the quality of the welds however. They weren't addressed in the original post, and they are really quite good.
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Dave, I know my limits and welding is beyond my scope (and no room in the panel for a 20A circuit). I learned to stick weld in the dark ages when hood lenses were not automatic darkening...and I was terrible. I can oxy o.k. (with practice, maybe again). John Jewell Architectural Metals does my work. He does incredible work including installations at the Smithsonian and public buildings in DC. He loves these "little" things I bring in.
 
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Havasu Dave

Moderator
#8
#8
For the majority of us not familiar with the intricacies of a Gilson, that weld job came jumping out! I was not sure if you'd welded it or not. I'd have welded it, but it wouldn't have looked like that! :laugh: No doubt, those who have these bikes and want to original style of TAV option are going to really appreciate those pieces! Good job. You're an asset to the mini bike world Pete.
 
Dr. Shop Teacher

Dr. Shop Teacher

#10
#10
Installed Assembly

Here's what it looks like installed. Clearances are very tight (as they were on the Trail Bike). The swing arm bushings are much deeper than stock and took some finagling to get to fit. I went with a knock off TAV20 for this application.


 
danford1

danford1

#17
#17
I'm in the process of trying to install a Chomet (China copy of Comet) 20 series TAV
on my 525 .
I have questions.
First how do you align the clutches property?The inner portion of the drive clutch is fixed and the outer portion of the driven is fixed.
Am I correct in assuming that you slide the outer portion of the drive clutch together then line up the center of the V's like in the picture below? It is looking from drive towards the driven.
Are you selling a pair of your repop brackets?
If I get my drive and driven lined up like in the picture, my driven is hitting the frame tube.
It would need to go up higher and perhaps forward to work.
Let me know if I'm on the right track and if those repop's are for sale.
The other picture is of what I started with. I know the plates are supposed to be on the outside but this is what the previous owner(s) did.
Do your plates re-position the jackshaft higher and more forward?
Thanks
Danford1


 
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