Rupp Roadster Swing arm Help

#1
Hello members, I'm trying to save my swing arm, it was really bad!!! It had several scabed on pieces and gobs of something that almost looked like weld. Any ways does anyone have a good pic of one so I know what it is supose to look like? When these were made were the two stamped parts of the swing arm the same or is there a left and right? They seem to be symetrical. Here is what I've got now. Thanks in advance! image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#3
Hello members, I'm trying to save my swing arm, it was really bad!!! It had several scabed on pieces and gobs of something that almost looked like weld. Any ways does anyone have a good pic of one so I know what it is supose to look like? When these were made were the two stamped parts of the swing arm the same or is there a left and right? They seem to be symetrical. Here is what I've got now. Thanks in advance! View attachment 89807 View attachment 89808
If thats the one that came off that bike you were trying to get an ID on the other day that is in fact the 10" wheel version swingarm :thumbsup: and yes they were the same plates both sides, which is why on those the rectangular slot is topside on left and bottom on the right. Could not see those slots at with all that stuff they had welded on!!!

I dunno if there is an actual length difference between the 10" and 12", I have never had post 1971 10/12 bikes side by side to compare, and I dont have any Late rupp frames here. Maybe someone that has one can verify the length of a 12" wheel for you as I know you mentioned you may install 12" wheels.
 
#5
Thanks guys, so I measured my swing arm and from the center of the pivot point to the other end is 12" but as you said Markus the square holes make it a 10" version, so I'm assuming the 10" and 12" versions are the same length. Can you tell me what the square holes are for on the 10" version? I wanted to restore this to as close to origional as possible but im realizing now that finding parts is very hard and when you find them they go for redicolus money.
 

markus

Well-Known Member
#6
The square hole cut out is for the brake cable mount on the brake plate, it also keeps the plate from rotating. The 12wheels have a different brake plate in them . I just was not sure if they were shorter...the rear fender mount is different as well and puts the fender in a different position.
 
#7
I wanted to restore this to as close to origional as possible but im realizing now that finding parts is very hard and when you find them they go for redicolus money.
What is your interpretation of "redicolus (assume you meant "ridiculous") money"?
Michael
 

capguncowboy

Well-Known Member
#8
I had a complete bike, and used survivor chrome when I restored by 70 model Roadster. I spent about $900 out of pocket on paint, decals, cables, tires, tubes, engine parts, lights, grips, seat cover, TAV belt etc. It aint cheap to make 'em pretty
 
#9
What is your interpretation of "redicolus (assume you meant "ridiculous") money"?
Michael
Yea, that's what I meant, as for as money goes a couple of rusty 12" complete wheels on eBay went for $127.00 and $157.00 Plus shipping. This will be my first mini bike restore, I've done several honda's and parts are much more reasonable. I guess I didn't realize when I got this project that I would be spending three bills for a set of used wheels. Oh well, I'll keep looking.
 
#10
I had a complete bike, and used survivor chrome when I restored by 70 model Roadster. I spent about $900 out of pocket on paint, decals, cables, tires, tubes, engine parts, lights, grips, seat cover, TAV belt etc. It aint cheap to make 'em pretty
Yep, I'm hearing ya, just a little sticker shock I guesss. :)
 
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