Smoking centrifugal-what did I do wrong

#1
Yesterday I switched from the torque converter I had on my drift trike (https://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/projects-and-rides/142503-drift-trike-build.html) to a Hilliard's Extreme Duty Clutch #35 12T 3/4". The reason for this was I kept popping the chain off. I believe this was caused by 2 things. The design of the driven pulley bracket had too much flex in it and the clutches didn't release fast enough when the trike spun around fast and the wheels went backwards. It seemed like a centrifugal would simplify things and solve both problems.

I needed to move the engine left about 1.5" so the chain would line up and with that I was able to put the centrifugal on. I also swapped from a 58T sprocket on the axle to a 53T so I wouln't loose too much speed compared to the ratio I had been running with the torque converter (17T/58T). I did lubed the bronze bushing before using the clutch. I actually lubed it outside by the snap ring and inside the housing.

At first it just didn't seem to want to go. It was hard to tell but it looked like the shoes weren't expanding enough to engage so I adjusted the governor. That seemed to help and I was able to ride but it didn't seem great. I then read the directions better saw where the clutch needs to float a bit on the crankshaft. Instead of finding the right spacers to make that happen I just let it ride with no bolt in the crank. Again it seemed just ok, but not really responding like I expected. Then I noticed it was smoking pretty good so I shut things down.

I'm new to centrifugal clutch. All my other bikes have torque converters so I'm not sure what I've done wrong. Engine is a Tecumseh HM80. It's on 10 tires with the PVC sleeves of typical drift trikes and currently a 12T/53T gear setup. I don't know if the gear ratio is too steep. Was oiling the inside of the housing a mistake that got a little oil on the shoes and ruined them? How important is it that the clutch floats? Have I ruined it by getting it hot? The shoes and springs aren't stuck but they are discolored compared to out of the package.



 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#2
I would take that clutch apart and clean it with some WD40 and start over. Lightly sand the shoes with a fine sandpaper to remove the scoring. the springs look fine from here. Do not use carb/brake cleaner on the clutch as it will strip the oil from the bushing. Do not use synthetic oil for the bushing! I use straight 30 wt and let it soak in
You are stressing the bushing without having that clutch all the engaged on that shaft. I would never run it like that! The drum needs to be captured on the shaft. There is nothing holding that on! The bushing running un-supported may have cocked it a bit while under load and the oil was burning out of the bushing.
Is the shaft on the engine even long enough?
It does look like you have some room to move the sprocket in a bit on the axle to help with alignment.
I am no drift trike guy, but it seems like all the trikes I see are running an ungoverned engine to help keep the tires spinning with higher rpm's. It would seem a governed engine would hurt the drift experience.

just my .02
 
#3
Clutch is severely overloaded and is possibly damaged due to overheating.
You are running about a 4.4:1 ratio which is excessively high. Should be closer to 6:1.
A 70 or 72 tooth driven sprocket will show a vast improvement and clutch problems will go away.
 
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CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#4
Clutch is severely overloaded and is possibly damaged due to overheating.
You are running about a 4.4:1 ratio which is excessively high. Should be closer to 6:1.
A 70 or 72 tooth driven sprocket will show a vast improvement and clutch problems will go away.
The drift trikes can run ratios like that due to the slippage from the sleeves over the tires. I do agree that ratio is not correct, but the thinking behind the drift trikes is a bit different from minibikes/go karts.
 
#6
Yep..you will never get the top speed out of a clutch you get from a tc ..pretty much it..unless on the high speed flats..
 
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#7
I'd never run a TAV on a drift trike. 2nd, the Hilliards are very gear ratio sensitive. I never had issues selling drift trike guys a basic max Torque with those static gear ratios on a drift trike. CarPlay is correct that the pvc over the tires will aid in the tall ratio. I've never been a fan of the Hilliard and I'll stand by that lol!
Adam, with your stock engine, try a $28 max Torque.


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#8
wow you need to get a bolt in that shaft asap you can run a small nub of 3/4 shaft to support the bushing completly. Not ideal but it will work. If that drum came off far enough the weights will fly out and kill you. Alternatively you can turn it around and run the sprocket to the inside but you will have the same problem securing it. I highly doubt you did any damage to it by smoking it. But if its getting that hot you need to go to a lower ratio.
 
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SAS289

Well-Known Member
#9
Clutch is severely overloaded and is possibly damaged due to overheating.
You are running about a 4.4:1 ratio which is excessively high. Should be closer to 6:1.
A 70 or 72 tooth driven sprocket will show a vast improvement and clutch problems will go away.
I agree. But if it was me I would try to find a 10 tooth to see if there is improvement. Then dial in better with the "big" sprocket. It also looks like there may be limited clearance for a larger 72 tooth sprocket.
 

SAS289

Well-Known Member
#11
Is there a 10 tooth clutchsprocket for 35 chain? Thought only 41 could get 10 tooth.
You may be right.... Sorry. I was thinking ratios and not thinking availability...Duh.

The more I think about it the gearing change may help with the clutch issue but what would that do for the wheel spin speed with a governed engine? The wheel spin may slow down too much. (?)
 
#12
Is there a 10 tooth clutchsprocket for 35 chain? Thought only 41 could get 10 tooth.
You can get the max Torque SS clutch with an 11, but I can't remember if they have a 10. OldMiniBikes warehouse stocks them. You can't swap out the driver sprocket on the $28 clutch though. You have to step up to the SS which at the time I worked there was about $55?


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#13
Thanks guys. I'm going to sand the clutch a little just to clean it up again. I'm going to change my big sprocket back to the 58T I had on there with the torque converter. I have room for a little bigger sprocket but hopefully the 58T will do. The clutch does sit almost all the crank and I have washer/spacer I was running on the end except for my short trial.



I do think my throttle setup is pretty poor and it's not helping. I think the governor is working too well, cutting too much power. Power shouldn't be an issue with this engine. I need to set that up better. I've thought about removing the governor and trying to limit the engine with some sort of restrictor plate or throttle stop or both but I'm not sure they would do what I want.
 
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