Spray paint....what do you prefer?
- Thread starter hoppy
- Start date
- Tags paint....what prefer? spray
now thats a good idea. Do you know if the cost of a mixed can Vs. one off the shelf is higher? i would think so. i think Napa does this correct?
whats the deal with clear coats? do you put them on when the paint has hardened or while the paint is still fresh and setting up? you guys have any issues with your clear going yellow and or flaking/peeling? will clear coat "cover" imperfections in a spray bomb job?
whats the deal with clear coats? do you put them on when the paint has hardened or while the paint is still fresh and setting up? you guys have any issues with your clear going yellow and or flaking/peeling? will clear coat "cover" imperfections in a spray bomb job?
Usually says on the back of the can if you can read the small print :detective:
If you dont get it on during the set up time you have too wait till it has completely dried.
I actually like Rustoleum Hammer finish because all the Ohio bikes are pitted to hell and the hammer finish hides all the imperfections and makes it look like you meant it that way. Once it hardens up it is as good as anything else, and if you get a scratch just dip a cue-tip in some paint and touch it on. It blends right in . I painted my Cheetah with it.
If you dont get it on during the set up time you have too wait till it has completely dried.
I actually like Rustoleum Hammer finish because all the Ohio bikes are pitted to hell and the hammer finish hides all the imperfections and makes it look like you meant it that way. Once it hardens up it is as good as anything else, and if you get a scratch just dip a cue-tip in some paint and touch it on. It blends right in . I painted my Cheetah with it.
Usually says on the back of the can if you can read the small print :detective:
If you dont get it on during the set up time you have too wait till it has completely dried.
I actually like Rustoleum Hammer finish because all the Ohio bikes are pitted to hell and the hammer finish hides all the imperfections and makes it look like you meant it that way. Once it hardens up it is as good as anything else, and if you get a scratch just dip a cue-tip in some paint and touch it on. It blends right in . I painted my Cheetah with it.
If you dont get it on during the set up time you have too wait till it has completely dried.
I actually like Rustoleum Hammer finish because all the Ohio bikes are pitted to hell and the hammer finish hides all the imperfections and makes it look like you meant it that way. Once it hardens up it is as good as anything else, and if you get a scratch just dip a cue-tip in some paint and touch it on. It blends right in . I painted my Cheetah with it.
I think that stuff would look great on a motor, especially on the tin parts. But the label says it's only good to 200 degrees, so I suspect it would deteriorate pretty quickly around the exhaust port area and on the cylinder head. It also seems like the surface might be too bumpy for decals to lay flat. I might give it a go anyway. Has anyone else tried it on a motor? Did you put clear on it, too?
I think that stuff would look great on a motor, especially on the tin parts. But the label says it's only good to 200 degrees, so I suspect it would deteriorate pretty quickly around the exhaust port area and on the cylinder head. It also seems like the surface might be too bumpy for decals to lay flat. I might give it a go anyway. Has anyone else tried it on a motor? Did you put clear on it, too?
One of the better spray bomb jobs I did was an old Suzuki 370.
It had plastic fenders and side covers and a steel tank.
I sanded everything down to 400 grit, primed it, sanded again,
shot it with 3 coats of metallic blue Dupli-Color and clear coated it with Varathane.
Four coats of Varathane made it shine like glass.
The Varathane made the paint impervious to gas and I was very surprised
that the paint didn't crack when flexing the plastic parts.
It turned out to be very chip resistant also.
It had plastic fenders and side covers and a steel tank.
I sanded everything down to 400 grit, primed it, sanded again,
shot it with 3 coats of metallic blue Dupli-Color and clear coated it with Varathane.
Four coats of Varathane made it shine like glass.
The Varathane made the paint impervious to gas and I was very surprised
that the paint didn't crack when flexing the plastic parts.
It turned out to be very chip resistant also.