Stage 1 kit for lifan 212

#42
I made a quick/rough/sloppy sketch of what I'm thinking; you might prefer something different.

View attachment 246270
That is the way I was thinking of but cut a small piece of the fender out and keep it inside the frame. Wrap it with heat wrap to keep it from melting the fender. I think it could be done with only 2 bends. One tight 90 degree off the motor and one about 15 degree to get it going straight out the back.
 
#43
Multiply the 5.3 by the 2.7 of the CVT's starting ratio and you're starting out at 14.3:1. A larger rear sprocket would give it more grunt at the cost of losing some top speed. I think your choices would be limited to the Mega Max's large sprocket (can't find specs on it) or a custom sprocket, if these bikes have a 3 bolt pattern like pictures show. Another option would be to tune the CVT (torque converter) to "shift" at a higher rpm.

https://azusaeng.com/product/custom-aluminum-sprockets-blanks/
But you only get the 14.3:1 right on take off. Has soon has the belt starts riding up the drive clutch it starts dropping into the driven clutch reducing the gear ratio all the way into an overdrive ratio.With the little bit of research I've done it seems 5.3:1 is a pretty tall gear for a CVT. Most recommend using a 6:1 ratio with a 19" tire to start with. I've also moved my driven clutch spring to the 3rd hole and it made the bike more snappy but didn't add any top rpm.
 
#44
But you only get the 14.3:1 right on take off. Has soon has the belt starts riding up the drive clutch it starts dropping into the driven clutch reducing the gear ratio all the way into an overdrive ratio.With the little bit of research I've done it seems 5.3:1 is a pretty tall gear for a CVT. Most recommend using a 6:1 ratio with a 19" tire to start with. I've also moved my driven clutch spring to the 3rd hole and it made the bike more snappy but didn't add any top rpm.
To add a noticeable amount of top-end rpm, you need to mess around with the weights and springs in the driver unit. Changing the Driven spring position WILL affect your rpm a little, but it mostly changes the belt tension.
 
#45
That is the way I was thinking of but cut a small piece of the fender out and keep it inside the frame. Wrap it with heat wrap to keep it from melting the fender. I think it could be done with only 2 bends. One tight 90 degree off the motor and one about 15 degree to get it going straight out the back.
Keeping it inside the frame would be better. I don't have one and can't really judge how much space there is to work with by looking at pictures.
 
#47
That is the way I was thinking of but cut a small piece of the fender out and keep it inside the frame. Wrap it with heat wrap to keep it from melting the fender. I think it could be done with only 2 bends. One tight 90 degree off the motor and one about 15 degree to get it going straight out the back.
Could you show me a sketch?
 
#48
Could you show me a sketch?
I don't know how to post a sketch, but if you look at the sketch Charles S has posted I would not use the two bends he shows to get the exhaust to the outside of the frame. Just use the 90 degree off the motor then run it through the fender straight back. You may or may not need a second bent.
 
#49
As an alternate routing to that in my sketch, the pipe could cross over to the right side, it appears there is plenty of space there. I'd prefer to have the muffler on the right side, maybe because I'm used to having motorcycles with a header and right side muffler.
 
#50
As an alternate routing to that in my sketch, the pipe could cross over to the right side, it appears there is plenty of space there. I'd prefer to have the muffler on the right side, maybe because I'm used to having motorcycles with a header and right side muffler.
Do you need something to help hold the header up since it's going to be so long?
 
#53
I'm contemplating an alternative to a long exhaust. Once the stock muffler and air filter is out of there, I think there would be quite a bit of space to work with under the seat (there's already some open space with the boxy muffler and airbox). How wide is the frame? (outside to outside where the top tubes join the upright tubes)
 
#54
I'm contemplating an alternative to a long exhaust. Once the stock muffler and air filter is out of there, I think there would be quite a bit of space to work with under the seat (there's already some open space with the boxy muffler and airbox). How wide is the frame? (outside to outside where the top tubes join the upright tubes)
I'll go look.
 
#56
So what do you attach it to?
Somewhere on the frame or the rack?
And with what?
If I put a muffler below the rack, I'd probably attach a hanger to the rack. I might hang it by the muffler or the exhaust tube next to the muffler (assuming using an aluminum pit bike muffler, they are very light so I wouldn't be too concerned about not having a hanger on the muffler). Probably should incorporate rubber in the hanger due to vibration (maybe a short section of reinforced rubber strap type car/truck exhaust hanger). With a long exhaust, it would be good to have a flexible exhaust section near the engine; there are such things for automotive applications but I don't know about something so small.
 
#57
12 1/2 inches.
I can take the air filter housing and stock muffler off so you can see how much space there would be.
Don't bother. I'm just thinking about what might fit within the width of the frame, would flow well, be at least somewhat quieter than a straight pipe, and not blast your leg with hot exhaust. I have most of that figured out. I'm thinking an aluminum pit bike muffler (straight through, not quiet but not as obnoxious as a straight pipe) or a hotdog type muffler (but larger than what most people use, one made for a larger engine, less restriction than a smaller one) mounted transversely (side to side) under the seat. The pit bike muffler I have is about 9.5" long and a little less than 3.5" in diameter, which I think could work with a couple of tight bends to get into the inlet. A steel hotdog type muffler would probably be easier. Either one would be blasting exhaust out the right side without some sort of deflector or a bent tube on the end. I'll give it some more thought. I would have bought a Pro Series if I had someplace to ride it; all I could do here is ride around the block then hide it before the police show up.
 
#58
If I put a muffler below the rack, I'd probably attach a hanger to the rack. I might hang it by the muffler or the exhaust tube next to the muffler (assuming using an aluminum pit bike muffler, they are very light so I wouldn't be too concerned about not having a hanger on the muffler). Probably should incorporate rubber in the hanger due to vibration (maybe a short section of reinforced rubber strap type car/truck exhaust hanger). With a long exhaust, it would be good to have a flexible exhaust section near the engine; there are such things for automotive applications but I don't know about something so small.
What's a hanger look like??
 
#60
Don't bother. I'm just thinking about what might fit within the width of the frame, would flow well, be at least somewhat quieter than a straight pipe, and not blast your leg with hot exhaust. I have most of that figured out. I'm thinking an aluminum pit bike muffler (straight through, not quiet but not as obnoxious as a straight pipe) or a hotdog type muffler (but larger than what most people use, one made for a larger engine, less restriction than a smaller one) mounted transversely (side to side) under the seat. The pit bike muffler I have is about 9.5" long and a little less than 3.5" in diameter, which I think could work with a couple of tight bends to get into the inlet. A steel hotdog type muffler would probably be easier. Either one would be blasting exhaust out the right side without some sort of deflector or a bent tube on the end. I'll give it some more thought. I
I wish I could be more of a help knowing what to do but I've no idea.
I'm just going to go with whatever you think is best.
 
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