Strocker motor
- Thread starter vwfan79
- Start date
Pop up piston, machine head to fit
Im with Tx, Bore the head, if the head is un planed u shold hav about 0.250 from gasket face to v/v face. your .350 lift cam, 260* duration im guessing, probly has .100-.150 lift at, in and around, near overlap, (its a nail head desizn so valve relives dont come in to play so much anyway) you should be ok in that respect.
The OEM spark plug with its extended tip prbly will get hit, youll need a retractor tip and with high compression that's what you run any way.
The machineist will probly mount the head on a rotory table and mill, but the job could be done on a lathe with a face plate too, and he will need a center to work off of, if you tape a sharp nail to the center of your piston you can transfer a mark to the chamber center for him.
If you run a 0.040 head gasket and you machine down 0.050, that should leave you 0.030 piston to head clearance
Piston v/v clearance at overlap should be around 0.050-0.100......
Should work.
Im with Tx, Bore the head, if the head is un planed u shold hav about 0.250 from gasket face to v/v face. your .350 lift cam, 260* duration im guessing, probly has .100-.150 lift at, in and around, near overlap, (its a nail head desizn so valve relives dont come in to play so much anyway) you should be ok in that respect.
The OEM spark plug with its extended tip prbly will get hit, youll need a retractor tip and with high compression that's what you run any way.
The machineist will probly mount the head on a rotory table and mill, but the job could be done on a lathe with a face plate too, and he will need a center to work off of, if you tape a sharp nail to the center of your piston you can transfer a mark to the chamber center for him.
If you run a 0.040 head gasket and you machine down 0.050, that should leave you 0.030 piston to head clearance
Piston v/v clearance at overlap should be around 0.050-0.100......
Should work.
I talked to a couple trust friends about the piston being out of the hole and got better news than I was expecting. The advice and plan moving forward is 2 copper .042 head gaskets. The plan is to heat them in the oven at 300 for 30 minutes and allow to cool naturally. After cooling use copper gasket sealer and put her together. I am gonna take an have the block welded to reinforce the top and have a gusset ran up the outside of the cylinder as well.
Copper head gaskets, strait up or annealed
I'm using a copper head gasket in the zero deck Rato that im biulding right now, a 0.037''
I was reading some dope on-line and what i found was the copper sealer is a liquid copper spray.
A major copper gasket maker was saying don't anneal (your slow bake plan) the gasket, run it strait up and clean. sealer was optional.
Where they do anneal is when the stainless steel o-rings are used and the block and head are grooved, then the softer copper can embed the ring.
If i was going to stack two gaskets i would be tempted to lightly sand and clean the gasket faces before spraying on the sealer, that way the raised surface will capture the sealer and the two gaskets would be better bonded.
Your gona want max clamp force so studs are mandatory and re-torque after a couple heat cycles.
Any good TIG welder should be able to weld/build up the outside of the block no problem.
I'm using a copper head gasket in the zero deck Rato that im biulding right now, a 0.037''
I was reading some dope on-line and what i found was the copper sealer is a liquid copper spray.
A major copper gasket maker was saying don't anneal (your slow bake plan) the gasket, run it strait up and clean. sealer was optional.
Where they do anneal is when the stainless steel o-rings are used and the block and head are grooved, then the softer copper can embed the ring.
If i was going to stack two gaskets i would be tempted to lightly sand and clean the gasket faces before spraying on the sealer, that way the raised surface will capture the sealer and the two gaskets would be better bonded.
Your gona want max clamp force so studs are mandatory and re-torque after a couple heat cycles.
Any good TIG welder should be able to weld/build up the outside of the block no problem.
I'm studding the head and side cover, already have the studs in my parts box. I have a machine shop we use at work to pressure check heads and mill them for straightness. I've already asked him about welding the block, I know he will do it right and give me a good deal.
My understanding was that by putting the gaskets in the oven and allowing them to cool preshrinks the gasket, sort a speak.
My understanding was that by putting the gaskets in the oven and allowing them to cool preshrinks the gasket, sort a speak.
Doing what I can to make this thread as informative as possible. I'm kinda learning as I go on some of this stuff. I'm thinking I might go with a tiliston carb instead of the flat slide mikuni.
I ordered 2 .045 fiber head gaskets with fire rings for a 3" bore. I also got a can of copper gasket sealer spray to seal the gaskets together. I figured if there are any imperfections in the head or block deck the fiber would seal them better then the copper. Gaskets were $25 a piece and the sealer was $12 from nr racing.
I ordered 2 .045 fiber head gaskets with fire rings for a 3" bore. I also got a can of copper gasket sealer spray to seal the gaskets together. I figured if there are any imperfections in the head or block deck the fiber would seal them better then the copper. Gaskets were $25 a piece and the sealer was $12 from nr racing.
I use that stuff extensively including turbo cars. It stays sticky for quite awhile. Since you're putting two gaskets together, I'd let both pieces start to get tacky, then align and torque. Left long enough, it will dry out, although remains somewhat pliable. Good stuff. Almost like gold spray paint.
