Super Bronc vt1015 - don't buy from a plumber

[cfh]

I'm going with a band brake on the jackshaft.
bought the cheapest 5/8" centrifugal clutch on ebay, was $15 shipped to my door. Took it apart and gutted it. I will weld the center hub to the outer drum. Then take a band brake and attached it to the jackshaft mount. I think this is going to work well, and is dirt cheap and easy to implement. Actually it's so easy to implement, could have *two* of them on the jackshaft, with a brake handle on each side of the bars!

 

[delray]

something you might want to look at.
here is a factory band brake setup. the brake switch is added.

most are missing the front piece that holds the band brake and will cause it to lock up if the part is not in place.
here is one that was modified with a small hold down bracket. i'm sure yours will act different with it pin/bolted to the plate. interesting to see how it works.

 

[cfh]

thanks for the pictures. that's a different set up, with no jackshaft. They are running a torque converter mounting plate to the motor, it appears. Is that correct? I have an actual separate jackshaft metal U bracket, that bolts to the motor plate. I think the set up you show was probably cheaper for them to make? or maybe easier. or both.

 

[delray]

yes, that's the factory mounted plate/torque converter setup on a super bronc. they work,but you need to have that bracket also in place from what I have gather in the past from some super bronc guys that I ride with or the brake becomes just little touchy(locks up). factory mounted plate looks a lot like a comet,but the mounting ears for the cover are in a different position then the comet covers are and they come with the band brake fab up on the back side of the mounting plate.

 

[delray]

I almost forgot to ask,what have you decided to run for a torque converter and how do you plan to setup a cover for it?

 

[cfh]

I think I’m going to use just a import series 30 torque converter. But I’m definitely using that remote jack shaft housing with my band brake/clutch bell idea. I’ve run these 10 hp tecumsehs with series 30 tour converter‘s and they seem to work fine. But technically a series 30 isn’t supposed to be above 8 hp.

As for the tc cover I have an idea for that too. But basically it’ll be just an import style black plastic tc cover with some heald decals on it

 

[chrisr]

The 30 series work fine on the Bronc.

 

[delray]

from my experience the stock 30 series work's fine with a 10hp flathead. the big problems I get with a 30 series is running it with a clone motor that is built with a billet flywheel. engine will vibrate and with the high rpm's it likes to heat up the driver bad and some times lock it up too.
with a stock 10hp flathead that has a cast steel flywheel that weigh's a ton and a engine that won't spin higher then 3600+ rpm's. the unit just go's for the ride and doesn't really give any grief.
like I mention earlier I prefer to have a 7inch rear pulley for more lower performance(something you need on that heavy bike) and something that might work for you also. I would just make a flat backing plate that bolts up to the 4 pto bolt holes and then fab up 4 mounting ears to hold a older style comet cover. but your distance from your driver to your driven would have to be the stock length,so the cover could still work and if you wanted to get fancy you could spit the cover and fiberglass it like I did on my thunder bolt so it can run a 7 inch behind it and you could still mount the factory style decal on the cover.

 

[cfh]

The problem with a 7" driven is two fold... the TC cover is one issue. but the other is the U jackshaft holder is designed for a 6" driven. I guess i could mount it on blocks to bring it up. but in the end i'm not sure it's worth the trouble for these two points. i'll just try it with the 6" driven and see what happens. If it's a dog, then i'll go to the 7" style.

Will have to make a custom exhaust and intake manifold. Got it started...

 

[delray]

6inch will be fine, if you had the easy option to go 7 inch it would help little more. think you will still happy with the 6inch....

 

[cfh]

welded the $15 clutch with the 5/8" hole solid. I think this will work well for the brake using a standard band brake installed on the jackshaft.

Put the wheels on. Now it's time to line up the jackshaft and the rear sprocket, and get that all locked into place. Then it's easy to finish! but getting that jackshaft in the right place, that's the tricky part.... As a side note, man this thing is BIG. i guess i didn't realize how big this freaking monster really is. I straddled the bike today and was amazed that i had to used my tippy toes to keep it straight up! Man the thing is wide.

 

[SCooke123]

Roller looks great - like that red!

 

[cfh]

Had to modify the jackshaft U bracket. Frankly, it was just too short. Needed to be 2.5 inches wider. Otherwise the portion of the jackshaft that holds the sprocket for the chain would hang out 2.5 inches. seemed like a lot of stress on the bearing and perhaps could bend the jackshaft. i think this problem was invented by me though. I put the sprocket on the opposite side (compared to the torque converter.) I thought this was a good idea, and how it should be, because there was an original chain cutout in the motor plate (which made me believe this is original.)

But i think what really happened was they used a comet torque converter that bolts to the motor, and the chain hangs on that. No jackshaft needed! But i had this jackshaft U plate, so figured i would use it. Besides, it holds my brake system.

I cut the U jackshaft plate in half, and welded in a 2.5" plate between the two parts. Also welded the rear fender brackets to the jackshaft bracket. Note sure that was a good idea, but i did it.

Got it all mounted and everything lined up and bolted in place (including the brake assembly.) Looks great! But then trouble came... the rear fender. I had broken my rule of "complete assembly before paint", and never mounted the rear fender before. This was a mistake. Because my band brake assembly hit the rear fender! damn...

What i did was a bit of hack, but it worked great. I marked where the band brake assembly was touching the rear fender. Then cut two slots in the fender. Took a metal hockey puck (players practice with these) and a press, and pressed that cut area of the fender with the hockey puck. This put a nice "C" where the band brake was hitting the fender. Then cut some small pieces of metal, and sealed the sides of the indented "C". Installed the fender, and it worked like a champ! Band brake no longer touches the fender. Looks kind of cool too.

Now it's time to work on the exhaust and carb intakes. Bent up some 7/8" stainless steel tube to the exhaust, need to weld it in place to the manifold plate. And make a rear bracket for the exhaust, and a 'harley' style end. No muffler... not sure that's a good idea, but that's what i'm going to do. will probably be loud!! Also mounted a plastic TC cover. Had to modify it a bit because it was too short. I know it's blue, i will change that soon to another color...

 

[massacre]

Wow
great job on the fender and exhaust!
that byke really is huge

 

[cfh]

Finished up the Heald Super Bronc VT10. Rode it around today. I would say this... what a land boat. It's just too damn big. For a 10hp motor, it doesn't really get up and go either (32mph top speed via 11t on jackshaft and 60t on rear wheel.) i guess it has a lot of pull, but it's so heavy and big, you really are overwhelmed by the freakin size of the thing, that you don't notice. The band brake system does work. But it would be nice to have a front brake too. It really needs that. I mean it stops OK but a front brake would make it really stop nice. The open exhaust is freaking loud too! i mean scary loud (really needs a muffler).

Not sure what i'm going to do with it. I mean it's just too freaking big and it's really not that fun to ride, in my opinion. And i don't have any trees that need to be climbed, or moats that need to be crossed, or dead horses i need to drag. Interesting distraction, but i'm kind of mad at myself for spending all this time and energy, and then being underwhelmed by the thing. I gotta stick to the 10" and 12" spoked wheel stuff (speedway/rupp/mtd/fox, etc)...

 

[Rowedoo]

That's a great looking bike that anybody would love to own .

 

[Mariah]

WhooHoo that bike really turned out nice!

 

[stupid bronc]

i got the motor plate fill welded to fix the swiss cheese.

But do you guys run anything on the underside of the motor plate? It's so big, i would think there would be flex on the motor plate. I was thinking of welding some square stock under the plate, from side to side. Just one run, pretty much directly under the center of the motor. Good or bad idea?? thanks!

The motor should bolt to a bracket at the top and the motor plate on the bottom. Believe me, it ain’t flexing, bending, or going anywhere!

 

[Fourtogo]

Some time ago, when i trusted people in the mini bike world, i bought a Heald Super Bronc (probably a vt1015). It was modifed, painted an ugly green. Had a honda gx160 engine and a standard clutch with a band brake. But the fenders were there. Also have an empty jackshaft bracket and gas tank. So it didn't seem awful.

But after I removed all the pipe foam surrounding the frame (where the gas tank would have been installed), the story changed a bit...

Yes that is 3/4" copper pipe. He even tried to solder it in place.
I'll bend up some 1" tubing and fix the missing piece. Also fix the swiss chess motor plate.

But I have no brake system for this. I would like to have that nifty disc brake system on the jackshaft. Just can't find those parts anywhere. Has anyone done that modification? If so, what parts did you use and where did you get them?

Lastly i need to get a torque converter for this. Is it better to use a 7" driven? And would that be asymmetric or symmetric style? That is series30 or series40? I have a nice Tecumseh 10 hp motor already, with a slide carb,. I will make a straight exhaust. Probably will be loud as crap, but the original muffler isn't exactly available...
thanks!

 

[Fourtogo]

I made my own disk brake . It’s a jack shaft disk set up . For caliper buy a new one of EBay their cheap . The disk hub I got from Azusa Manufacturing . I cut the center hole of the disk to ride on the hub . The disk I also made chucked it up in a lathe to make it perfectly round .