Tecumseh H30 won't start, need help...

#1
Hello All,

I need some help and advice from the masters on this page. While I am not a novice when it comes to small engines, this is the most in depth I have gone working on one.

Here is what's up: I got this 70s ARCO E-Z Rider from my mother in law 13-ish years ago. It is a H30 -35176J - The story I was told is that is has always been hard to start and get going. I finally decided to mess with it as a COVID Isolation project, but am having trouble getting it to start.

-- I have changed: points, condenser, coil, plug -(all by the book to spec)
-- I have pulled the Head, cleaned, replaced with a new gasket, torqued to spec. (valves look good, has compression)
-- Rebuild the carb with a carb kit
-- New gaskets on both sides of the carb and exhaust, new gasket in the valve breather assembly
-- I have timed it as close to .065 BTDC (book specs) as I can - I am using feeler gauges and a continuity tester (volt/ohm meter)
-- The key in the flywheel is not sheared or appear defective
-- Inside the fly wheel is clean, coil steel pack is clean

When I try to start, with main jet and Idle jet set to "factory settings", I can get it to Hick-up and gurgle like it WANTS to start, but I can not get any sort of actual slight running. I have tried starting fluid and that does not do anything either. No backfires, no BLACK smoke, but a little wispy white WHITE smoke, look like it is from the valve breather opening?

I have spark (checking by grounding plug to head) - I am getting a little smoke when it does try to start, so I am assuming I am getting fuel in.

My assumption is that it is either 1) My timing is not accurate enough to get it to fire. 2) My carb is shot and just too worn out. 3) There is a bigger issue, maybe in the crank case?

Any help, advice or guidance would be much appreciated. I am almost ready to take it in and have someone else work on it, but what's the fun in that? I

Thank you,
Caveman
 

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#3
When you "rebuilt the carb" did you remove the welch plugs and probe/clean the tiny orifices behind them?
michael
Yes, I removed and replaced the welch plugs, cleaning the passageways with a small wire, they all appeared clear. I also replaced needle assembly & seat- set float to level with the bowel gasket flange (when inverted from running/mounted orientation), new bowel gasket. New idle needle, o ring, washer. New main jet assemble that was provided in the kit.

-Caveman
 
#4
Is the fuel fresh? Sounds like what happens when its trying to run on water. other than that id say its more likely a spark issue because it should kick on starting fluid. Points cam lobe installed the right way? I cant remember if it can go backwards
 
#5
Is the fuel fresh? Sounds like what happens when its trying to run on water. other than that id say its more likely a spark issue because it should kick on starting fluid. Points cam lobe installed the right way? I cant remember if it can go backwards
Thank you for the input! Yes, the fuel is new, I am using "tru-fuel" as it is ethanol free. I have ordered an aftermarket carb, I didn't know if maybe it was sucking air through the carb? waiting for it to come in. I have opened the crank case since my last post, and the cam shaft and crank shaft seem to be alined correctly (the marks on the gears are lined up). I did look at the cam shaft lobes that raise the valves, some wear but when I had the head off it looked like they were both opening the same amount. I believe I have the points cam lobe in the correct way, with the side that says "top" facing out.

With you confirming that it should kick on starter fluid, I am inclined to remove the head again and try to re-time it. I am assuming I should re-set the points as well while I am in there just to make sure they are as close as I can get them to the correct gap? I think my time BTDC is just not close enough, but I know the points gap can affect that too.
 
#6
I cant comment too much on setting up the points its been so long since iv put in new parts usually just clean the old ones. But yeah it wont hurt to double check everything. Id try a different plug then condenser. Maybe go back to the old coil too. I doubt it would not make it run but did you check the valve clearance?
 

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