Tecumseh Motorsports OHV 195cc

fistfullabar

Well-Known Member
#62
cool,if that intake starts to get cold or sweat on you, might have to wrap it or just go back and make it real short...:scooter:
I noticed the condensation. First time I rode it was dripping wet. It is less on each additional ride. Carb and intake was covered in water. What gives and why is that bad?
 

desert rat

Well-Known Member
#63
This is common. It is what takes aircraft down if the intake heater does not work properly. Condensation is not a problem and can be eliminated by pulling air from the area around the muffler but you don't need to be concerned as long as the carb is still operating properly. This will be more noticeable in high humidity levels IE. early in the morning or when it is about to rain.
 

fistfullabar

Well-Known Member
#64
Thanks desert rat. Bike and carb are running good. Mostly 1st pull start up with no choke. Dell'orto is easier for me then the "chikuni". Couldn't get it to work with any jet I had. Dell'orto is simple and easy to access the way I set it up. I really like the long intake and the position it puts the carb in. Hoping I dont have to change it .
 

fistfullabar

Well-Known Member
#71
So just spare rod bolts? Both the tecumseh and the arc rod have 12 point bolts currently. Tec factory billet rod needs 160 inch pounds? Cool
Thanks skip!
 

fistfullabar

Well-Known Member
#73
I kept hearing 170 inch pounds for the arc but they kept referring to clones and predators. So 160 for the arc tecumseh specific rod? What about the motorsports billet rod?
 
#74
I’m not sure about Tecumseh billet rods….I use the arc 6282 in old Tecumseh motors….I could find no specs when I started to build…I called arc…the tec on the other end said the 160 inch pounds….I’ve built several using that spec….
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#75
I’m not sure about Tecumseh billet rods….I use the arc 6282 in old Tecumseh motors….I could find no specs when I started to build…I called arc…the tec on the other end said the 160 inch pounds….I’ve built several using that spec….
Might want to call them again next time you are installing one...I called this past Spring about it, 170 in/lbs lubricated, no specs were listed in the rod box or on that page of the website. The HM rods I was shopping do list the same 170 spec also, the HS rod replacement bolts show spec at 170, which are shared with one of the Briggs designed rods.

Maybe they changed bolt design or materials at some point?
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#77
I kept hearing 170 inch pounds for the arc but they kept referring to clones and predators. So 160 for the arc tecumseh specific rod? What about the motorsports billet rod?
Did a little researching after I was able to magnify and read the top of the Motorsports rod bolt heads, they're MIL SPEC so standard data is readily available...MS 21250

https://military-fasteners.com/bolts/shear+bolts/MS21250-04012

Closest size I could find in a quick search above has a tensile strength of 180,000 psi, 10,000 higher than the ARC bolts. Based on that info, if no one comes up with some old Tecumseh specs for them, I'd be comfortable installing mine at 170 in/lbs and not thinking about it any more.

Considered ordering a set of the ARC replacement bolts as they're the same length and thread but the ARC heads are smaller.
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#78
Just installed another one…not too concerned….but thanks for yours…
I just mentioned it because they told me different. It probably doesn't matter as 160 or 170 isn't torquing them to yield as they have you install and reinstall to seat bearings and check clearances by their own instructions.

Doesn't surprise me, I've installed ARP rod fasteners and used the box specs only to see later they changed the spec based on unknown reasons, testing, materials?
 

mustangfrank

Well-Known Member
#80
Soild skip! Excellent research mustang frank! When installing rod does the crankshaft have to come out?
Thanks fellas!
I guess not in this case being new, normally I like to have it out at least to inspect it well. Probably a good idea though to clean any manufacturing oils off at least the journal and it makes checking clearances easier with the crank on the bench or in a vise, I'm not really impressed with that black "coating" flaking of the bearings and might just order the ARC bearings that replace those.
 
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