tecumseh rebuild and restoration

markus

Well-Known Member
#42
I would not use a jaw puller on that, unless its replacable. I dont see a keyway slot so I am guessing what we see on the end of the shaft is a spacer, will it come out? I would think its nothing more than a spacer :shrug: I would see if that comes loose/out, lay the motor on the flywheel and pour some PB blast or brake fluid or something to that effect down the hole/keyway slot between shaft and driver. maybe a couple light wraps with a wooden mallet. around the shaft. if you do any prying between case and pulley you need to be very careful you can break the pulley halve pretty easy if its really stuck on there and possibly damage the sidecover too.

If its not budging with light prying/tapping I would apply some more brake fluid or PB blast while it sits either vertically or at an angle where it will pool and sit in between the shaft/driver and walk away for the night and let it sit and soak.
 
#43
I say the exact same thing.. Also if you can get a bolt threaded down into the crank nice and deep and tight, you can use that for whacking purposes.. Just a slight not even dangerous smack, added to your pickle fork contraption, ads an exponential amount of break-loose-tion to the mechanics of it all.. that fast shocking energy being delivered to the crank sends shock waves through the parts..

So, you can smack a bolt and that helps.. If you do everything to the point of ("I'm going to break something") :hammer: Then just STOP!! and leave the fluids to do their magic..

I'd definately get that plug out of the sheve boefore trying to move it at all..

Heat... :weld: The steel tube and iron crank being one piece, it's all gonna heat pretty evenly, which ya don't want.. Heating the sheeve makes it swell to a larger size, so it's looser, swelling the crank just makes it worse..

if ya can flash heat it real quick run around it all with the torch doing tearups, it might help..

I would just heat it all to beat hell and let it cool back off a few times.. Then dump your fluids back in to soak overnight, and try it all again..
 
#44
If it's not mechanically affixed (i.e., it's not welded, pinned, or screwed onto the crank), I'd draw oil in between the crank & sleeve with heat.


Flip the engine on it's recoil starter (you may want to drain it of oil first, unless you like smokeshows upon startup), and dribble oil onto the end of the crank. Take your trusty heatgun/blowtorch & heat an inch or so away from the oil, all the way around. Don't go nuts with the heat. Keep drawing in oil further & further until it won't take any more.

Let it sit for a while, and see what it'll do. :smile:
 
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