also you could control the wheeling with the driver unit? I would hook a tach up to the engine and apply the front brake or run the
bike up againt fix wall and then slowly accelerate the gas and watch when the driver engage/rpm. for example if it engage at 3000? drop the the engagement about 400-500 rpms. lets say 2500. with the engagement being lowered down the engine hopefully won't have much power being produced at that point of engagement. allowing it to take off without bad wheeling going on. good thing now you can also may allow you to gear the
bike better to a 72-80 sprocket. making the rpm's climb up faster to your top rpm....7000+ on the trails. changing gears can also impact how the
bike can wheeling too.