To screw or not to screw?

#1
I have a friend who bought a Manco Dingo with a 5hp Briggs new back in 86 - 88 maybe? He kept it garage kept, took care of it, and had fun on it up till about 2000. He then tore the motor down, installed a Dana Cam, header, air filter, and so on. They rode it up until about 2002 when he decided to do a total rebuild on it. He had it bored, bought new lifters, springs, piston, rings, gasket sets, and just about everything he could buy for it to make it back better than like new again. He started putting it back together until he got to the valve springs. He was told he needed a special $300 tool to compress them or it would totally mess them up. The motor and parts got put aside till he could look into it and as we got older I guess the interest I guess went away. About 3 years ago I offered him a brand new 100 dollar bill for it all. He told me he spent more than that just in parts and I was crazy. About 2 years ago, he called me and asked me was I still interested. I took it all off his hands and put it all in my garage until about 2 weeks ago when my son asked about fixing it. Back when I was younger, I put together maybe 30 small engines so I know a little but that was a long time ago. I have been slowly trying to finish where he left off but I am getting hung up here and there. A person can search the net and find 99.9% of all of their questions now days but the .01% is where I need help. So far everything seems to be coming along just fine but where I am hung up now is the carburetor. The motor came with no linkage what so ever and it took me 5 days to figure that out but I think I have it now. I am starting to take apart the carburetor to see what all parts I need to order and I noticed a hole in the bottom of it that lets dust and trash suck it. So here is my question finally……….

The carburetor has the aftermarket air filter adapter on it so one of the big filters can go on it. It slides over the rim and is held in place with 3 set screws. All looks to work fine and like it’s suppose to but… how the factory/original air filter use to be mounted to it, (held in place with the one screw through the center of the hole) the screw went through the choke butterfly, into the base of the carburetor body, and out the bottom. There is even a factory dip/ dimple in the tank to clear the screw.

Do I / should I put a screw from the bottom side to close the hole? This still leaves a big hole in the choke butterfly when closed. With the factory screw coming down from the top side, it would have filled this hole and close the opening fully when the choke was on. Will leaving this hole open make it run better, worse, or no different? Will it just let dust in? If I put a longer screw from the top side, it will plug the bottom hole and seal the choke butterfly when closed but there will be a screw sticking up right in the center of the air flow. Will this make much difference? I just don’t know enough about this kind of stuff to make the right decision so I need an answer from someone who has more experience. Thanks in advance for any help on this. I am going to try and post some pictures below to help explain what I am asking about.
 
#2
Well first off, you have yourself a good carb there, that is the type people use for racing. Plug the hole on the bottom of the carb, use loctite to keep it in. Since you now have a big hole in the choke where the stud went, I would just remove the choke and plug the hole left in the carb body.
 

C9H13NO3

Active Member
#3
He started putting it back together until he got to the valve springs. He was told he needed a special $300 tool to compress them or it would totally mess them up.
Who told him that?!?!??!! A valve spring compressor tool can be had at most lawn mower repair shops! Or from Briggs itself for less than $50!!

BAH.. he could have even used a box wrench... :doah:
 
#5
Thanks for the replies. I wanted to keep the choke in place so I could choke it if it sat for a while and needed it. My son may even need the choke to get it started in a few years. He is 3 right now so im even planning on ordering all of the governor set-up that came on the motor originally. I figured I could play around with different spring tensions so as he doesn’t get but maybe running speed but has full power to pull up a hill or out of a hole if he needed it. Then maybe I could have my spring to put on it when I need to test it out ;)

Yea I knew I could use a box wrench or use my dad’s valve compression tool when I made him the offer. If he was still attached to it and keeping it up like he was when we were younger, he would have done figured out how to do it. It was time to pass it along to someone who would restore it back to good working condition.
 
#6
Then honestly, I would just put a stock type filter on that uses the stud. Without that stud in place, the choke is pretty useless.
 
#7
I have a carb like that just cut a screw off with just enough threads to close the hole and loctite it in there.Put it in the underside of the carb the dent in the gas tank gives room for this.The choke will still work good enough to start that Briggs up,Ive done what you want to do to one of my Briggs engines it works good.
 
Last edited:
Top