Hey guys I'm new here. I'm going to be picking up in next few days a moto 1000. It already has a front suspension fork. I have plans for brushless motor upgrade. I have experience with a 1000w super scooter brushless conversion. I was curious I read this thread couple times now and seems like the old 36v 1000w motor has the same size mounting plate as the brushless motor does? My scooter conversion used the mounting holes on the end of the motor. So I was curious if you had to make an adapter mounting plate for the new motor?
Upgrading MM E -1000 electric bikes to Lithium ion batteries.
- Thread starter I74
- Start date
Welcome ! 
Mounting on the ''stock'' MY- 1020 brushed motor, is the same size as the 1020 & 1109 brushless ones.
Housing O.D. on the 1109, is just a smidge bigger.
I
Mounting on the ''stock'' MY- 1020 brushed motor, is the same size as the 1020 & 1109 brushless ones.
Housing O.D. on the 1109, is just a smidge bigger.
I
Welcome !
Mounting on the ''stock'' MY- 1020 brushed motor, is the same size as the 1020 & 1109 brushless ones.
Housing O.D. on the 1109, is just a smidge bigger.
I
Mounting on the ''stock'' MY- 1020 brushed motor, is the same size as the 1020 & 1109 brushless ones.
Housing O.D. on the 1109, is just a smidge bigger.
I
The stock gear on the brushed motor is a 10t #35.
It will go right on those brushless ones also,, just make sure you install the sprocket the same direction, & also use ''red'' Loctite.
I never overvolted the stock 36v brushed motor,, just the 36v brushless one to 48v.
As I' am sure you read,, that 12 fet controller on it is pretty much a self learning 36 ''or'' 48v 1000w one.
I wouldn't even mess around with that stock brushed motor,, just get a matched brushless motor & controller combo & be done with it.
The brushless 1020 motor is also lighter than the stock 1020 brushed one,, even the brushless 1109 is lighter than the 1020 brushed one.
I
It will go right on those brushless ones also,, just make sure you install the sprocket the same direction, & also use ''red'' Loctite.
I never overvolted the stock 36v brushed motor,, just the 36v brushless one to 48v.
As I' am sure you read,, that 12 fet controller on it is pretty much a self learning 36 ''or'' 48v 1000w one.
I wouldn't even mess around with that stock brushed motor,, just get a matched brushless motor & controller combo & be done with it.
The brushless 1020 motor is also lighter than the stock 1020 brushed one,, even the brushless 1109 is lighter than the 1020 brushed one.
I
The stock gear on the brushed motor is a 10t #35.
It will go right on those brushless ones also,, just make sure you install the sprocket the same direction, & also use ''red'' Loctite.
I never overvolted the stock 36v brushed motor,, just the 36v brushless one to 48v.
As I' am sure you read,, that 12 fet controller on it is pretty much a self learning 36 ''or'' 48v 1000w one.
I wouldn't even mess around with that stock brushed motor,, just get a matched brushless motor & controller combo & be done with it.
The brushless 1020 motor is also lighter than the stock 1020 brushed one,, even the brushless 1109 is lighter than the 1020 brushed one.
I
It will go right on those brushless ones also,, just make sure you install the sprocket the same direction, & also use ''red'' Loctite.
I never overvolted the stock 36v brushed motor,, just the 36v brushless one to 48v.
As I' am sure you read,, that 12 fet controller on it is pretty much a self learning 36 ''or'' 48v 1000w one.
I wouldn't even mess around with that stock brushed motor,, just get a matched brushless motor & controller combo & be done with it.
The brushless 1020 motor is also lighter than the stock 1020 brushed one,, even the brushless 1109 is lighter than the 1020 brushed one.
I
Okee doakee ….
Looks like the front end was pretty much installed correct.
The stop angles with these type of front ends, should be right around ''55 deg''.
Speed square like in the pic., work pretty good.
If you don't have around those angles,, then just grind a bit off of each stop ear end.
They might of used bigger stop pin posts,, looks like they are in the right places though.
A couple of things a' lot of people over look when installing these type front ends though,, is the step procedure of what to tighten & set first.
You always want to tighten the neck bolt before tightening the lower tree bolts.
If you don't,, you can bend back & put into a bind, the rear center of the lower tree in the area of where the neck bolt goes thru.
Also want to check the distances between the trees for ''even steven'',, where both the forks go thru,, before tightening the lower tree bolts.
I
Added,,
Think that front tire & wheel is on backwards.
Valve stems should be on the right side of the bike also.
Looks like the front end was pretty much installed correct.
The stop angles with these type of front ends, should be right around ''55 deg''.
Speed square like in the pic., work pretty good.
If you don't have around those angles,, then just grind a bit off of each stop ear end.
They might of used bigger stop pin posts,, looks like they are in the right places though.
A couple of things a' lot of people over look when installing these type front ends though,, is the step procedure of what to tighten & set first.
You always want to tighten the neck bolt before tightening the lower tree bolts.
If you don't,, you can bend back & put into a bind, the rear center of the lower tree in the area of where the neck bolt goes thru.
Also want to check the distances between the trees for ''even steven'',, where both the forks go thru,, before tightening the lower tree bolts.
I
Added,,
Think that front tire & wheel is on backwards.
Valve stems should be on the right side of the bike also.
Last edited:
Okee doakee ….
Looks like the front end was pretty much installed correct.
The stop angles with these type of front ends, should be right around ''55 deg''.
Speed square like in the pic., work pretty good.
If you don't have around those angles,, then just grind a bit off of each stop ear end.
They might of used bigger stop pin posts,, looks like they are in the right places though.
A couple of things a' lot of people over look when installing these type front ends though,, is the step procedure of what to tighten & set first.
You always want to tighten the neck bolt before tightening the lower tree bolts.
If you don't,, you can bend back & put into a bind, the rear center of the lower tree in the area of where the neck bolt goes thru.
Also want to check the distances between the trees for ''even steven'',, where both the forks go thru,, before tightening the lower tree bolts.
I
Added,,
Think that front tire & wheel is on backwards.
Valve stems should be on the right side of the bike also.
View attachment 287172
Looks like the front end was pretty much installed correct.
The stop angles with these type of front ends, should be right around ''55 deg''.
Speed square like in the pic., work pretty good.
If you don't have around those angles,, then just grind a bit off of each stop ear end.
They might of used bigger stop pin posts,, looks like they are in the right places though.
A couple of things a' lot of people over look when installing these type front ends though,, is the step procedure of what to tighten & set first.
You always want to tighten the neck bolt before tightening the lower tree bolts.
If you don't,, you can bend back & put into a bind, the rear center of the lower tree in the area of where the neck bolt goes thru.
Also want to check the distances between the trees for ''even steven'',, where both the forks go thru,, before tightening the lower tree bolts.
I
Added,,
Think that front tire & wheel is on backwards.
Valve stems should be on the right side of the bike also.
View attachment 287172
The .2 doesn't mean diddly squat.
Slots have plenty of space anyways.
I' am around 215lbs. also,, & run all the mini's @ 10 psi.
Unless running that bike mostly off road,, you definitely want to change out those ''junk'' tires to the SunF - AO21's,, if you are going to mostly ride it on the street ect.
lastly,,
I would just go with a 48v setup.
You get into 60+ v stuff,, it get's real expensive.
Slots have plenty of space anyways.
I' am around 215lbs. also,, & run all the mini's @ 10 psi.
Unless running that bike mostly off road,, you definitely want to change out those ''junk'' tires to the SunF - AO21's,, if you are going to mostly ride it on the street ect.
lastly,,
I would just go with a 48v setup.
You get into 60+ v stuff,, it get's real expensive.
The .2 doesn't mean diddly squat.
Slots have plenty of space anyways.
I' am around 215lbs. also,, & run all the mini's @ 10 psi.
Unless running that bike mostly off road,, you definitely want to change out those ''junk'' tires to the SunF - AO21's,, if you are going to mostly ride it on the street ect.
lastly,,
I would just go with a 48v setup.
You get into 60+ v stuff,, it get's real expensive.
Slots have plenty of space anyways.
I' am around 215lbs. also,, & run all the mini's @ 10 psi.
Unless running that bike mostly off road,, you definitely want to change out those ''junk'' tires to the SunF - AO21's,, if you are going to mostly ride it on the street ect.
lastly,,
I would just go with a 48v setup.
You get into 60+ v stuff,, it get's real expensive.
Am an R/C Guy myself, of many moons …..
Mostly planes & boats.
What do ''or'' did,, you run those Lipo's in for R/C ??
Like I told Vinny,, you do ''not'' want to use that stock 75t sprocket with a 48+v brushless set up.
It would pretty much want to be a wheelie machine every time you took off.
Put a 65t back there,, & that would be plenty.
Run time,, you are talking 40min. or 5 miles ??
I ''cruise'' over 10 miles in that time frame.
I
Mostly planes & boats.
What do ''or'' did,, you run those Lipo's in for R/C ??
Like I told Vinny,, you do ''not'' want to use that stock 75t sprocket with a 48+v brushless set up.
It would pretty much want to be a wheelie machine every time you took off.
Put a 65t back there,, & that would be plenty.
Run time,, you are talking 40min. or 5 miles ??
I ''cruise'' over 10 miles in that time frame.
I
Last edited:
Am an R/C Guy myself, of many moons …..
Mostly planes & boats.
What do ''or'' did,, you run those Lipo's in for R/C ??
Like I told Vinny,, you do ''not'' want to use that stock 75t sprocket with a 48+v brushless set up.
It would pretty much want to be a wheelie machine every time you took off.
Put a 65t back there,, & that would be plenty.
Run time,, you are talking 40min. or 5 miles ??
I ''cruise'' over 10 miles in that time frame.
I
Mostly planes & boats.
What do ''or'' did,, you run those Lipo's in for R/C ??
Like I told Vinny,, you do ''not'' want to use that stock 75t sprocket with a 48+v brushless set up.
It would pretty much want to be a wheelie machine every time you took off.
Put a 65t back there,, & that would be plenty.
Run time,, you are talking 40min. or 5 miles ??
I ''cruise'' over 10 miles in that time frame.
I