Valve Springs and E tubes

[vwfan79]

I wanted to replace my stock valve springs to eliminate high rpm valve float. I talked to one of the techs at one of the performance companies an was told that the 18# springs aren't as good as everyone thinks and that I would be better off with the trick springs. He said the trick springs actually have more noise pressure then the 18# springs. I got the trick springs and seem to still get the float around 5800 rpms. I think I may be running a little lean so I'm going to up my main jet and see if that helps too.

I would like to get some input from others who have experience with these springs.

As for E tube, is it necessary to change them when you increase the main jet size? Can they be DIY modded?

 

[tundrabeagle3]

not sure about the etube as i don't use one my self, but if you dont have billet parts fw and rod then even 5800 rpms is pushin it

 

[rmm727]

e-tube is for off idle to mid range. the right one will make your engine more responsive. most use the gx140 one. as for the springs, I wouldn't be surprised about the nose pressure. I bought some 10.8's to replace my 18s but never tried them. Don't think the 10.8s last as long though.

 

[vwfan79]

not sure about the etube as i don't use one my self

Are you running an older motor, can this be done on a clone and what advantages does it have?

 

[tundrabeagle3]

i am using a predator 212, a gx140 e tube is for more low end power

 

[Mini420]

i am using a predator 212, a gx140 e tube is for more low end power

True!!

U will need a 140 tube for more torque.

To fully use ur new springs, u will need a cam to push them to higher limits

 

[tundrabeagle3]

i wanted one but my local lawnmower shop wants $18 for one so i can do with out it.

 

[vwfan79]

U will need a 140 tube for more torque.

To fully use ur new springs, u will need a cam to push them to higher limits

I have plenty of torque already, my bike pulls like a some of a bitch.

These springs are intended to be used with the stock cam, they are to give more nose pressure and still pass stock tech check. They are claimed to have more nose pressure then the 18# springs at stock cam lift.

 

[rmm727]

not sure about the etube as i don't use one my self, but if you dont have billet parts fw and rod then even 5800 rpms is pushin it

Are you running an older motor, can this be done on a clone and what advantages does it have?

I already answered your question about what the e-tube does prior to you posting this.

It does fit the clone. It is right above the main jet in the carb. Main jet holds it in.

 

[vwfan79]

I already answered your question about what the e-tube does prior to you posting this.

It does fit the clone. It is right above the main jet in the carb. Main jet holds it in.

Yup thanks, I think part of the problem was I was running lean, I redrilled my main jet and it runs alot better at the top end in the high RPM range. Springs are working great and there seems to not be any valve float, I may put in a 140 e tube and a smaller rear sprocket. That way I'll gain some top end and not loss any or little torque.

 

[r_chez_08]

you can use solder or heatshrink to cover some of the holes in your stock e tube to make it similar to the 140 one.

 

[vwfan79]

you can use solder or heatshrink to cover some of the holes in your stock e tube to make it similar to the 140 one.

Thanks, I found that out on another website and plan to try it.

 

[Dave_In_Florida]

FYI we tried shrink wrap the other day and within a minute the gas had attacked it and loosened it up screwing up the tune.

 

[vwfan79]

I was planning on trying the solder, just seemed more reliable. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[rmm727]

$7 for the chinese gx140 e-tube. Why bother trying to solder it?

 

[vwfan79]

$7 for the chinese gx140 e-tube. Why bother trying to solder it?

Cause $7 is $7 and you have to pay shipping then wait for it to get there. It took about 20 minutes to solder it and I prefer DIY, I enjoy that kinda stuff. E tube soldered from a 5x5 to 3x3 and bike runs great.

 

[rmm727]

I like DIY too. Just sometimes, your time is worth more than what you can spend on the part. I also had concerns that the solder wouldn't lay down smooth enough and affect fuel flow.

 

[vwfan79]

I hear ya, but this was one I decided to try. I used a fine file and smoothed out the solder, looked pretty good and should effect fuel flow.

 

[Dave_In_Florida]

I think the inside of the tube is what would effect fuel flow so just solder the outside of the tube and don't let it drip in the tube and you should be fine.

 

[vwfan79]

Ya looked at the inside when I was done and nothing had made its way in there so I'm good there too.