vertical shaft 6.5 to minibike use

#21
Man, you guys are worse than my wife!:p Let's just call this an experiment and all the Debbie Downers can just sit back and watch me fail. Ill proceed and document this so the next guy wont have to here all these negative vibes. I made a little slinger off the rod bolt, it's stainless and weighs about a gram. Not sure how balanced these motors were. I do have my feelers out for a 5HP or better side shaft but no one seems to be answering fakebook nor craigslist inquiries lately. Not sure how they are going to sell their stuff if they don't answer I understand the supply chain issue of Covid jacked all the used minibike and parts prices up as this was all that was available
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#22
Let's just call it an experiment that you all know will fail. It's like watching a train wreck, right? So I made a slinger off the rod cap bolt and it will dip into <1" of oil and flinging it everywhere.
20230605_145240.jpg
Not sure how well these motors were balanced but it weighs about 1g, just a piece of stainless blade off an ornamental butter knife. I do have my feelers out for a proper 5+ HP side shaft but 4 inquires on fakebook and craigslist are still unanswered. I guess covid supply jacked all the minibike prices up as well as motors and parts as that was all that was available over Covid.
 
#24
No noises when it was running. still trying to get used to this site as I double posted my last thoughts as it was on page 2 and by default it shows page 1. I was just having a terrible time with the carb on this mower as we got shit gas here, E10 or worse and I dont mow but about once a month as I dont have sprinklers. The gas turns to jello in the carb bowl and I have to clean it out 2 of 3 times I try and use it. Once it was cleaned out it started on the first pull and ran strong with no knocks or noises over the muffler.
 
#27
next free thing we do to this free motor is to file a new oil feed groove in the crank journal. We file it on the top of the journal when looking at the sump/endplate and then cut a groove on end to let it catch the oil just like the one at 7:00 on the vertical shaft sump/endplate. Well use JB weld to fill the old oil groove as we dont want the oil to drain out of the journal. The real Horiontal shaft motors have this groove in this correct position. We will also cut a groove at the top lip of the cam journal but no internal groove is needed as its oiled differently. Once this is set up, file it smooth so the crank and cam will go back in and button it back up. Now its ready to clock the carb to the upright position, put at least 1.5 inches of oil in and let her rip...and seize up for the people who think it wont work! :p
 

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#29
next free thing we do to this free motor is to file a new oil feed groove in the crank journal. We file it on the top of the journal when looking at the sump/endplate and then cut a groove on end to let it catch the oil just like the one at 7:00 on the vertical shaft sump/endplate. Well use JB weld to fill the old oil groove as we dont want the oil to drain out of the journal. The real Horiontal shaft motors have this groove in this correct position. We will also cut a groove at the top lip of the cam journal but no internal groove is needed as its oiled differently. Once this is set up, file it smooth so the crank and cam will go back in and button it back up. Now its ready to clock the carb to the upright position, put at least 1.5 inches of oil in and let her rip...and seize up for the people who think it wont work! :p
All for your enthusiasm and wish you good results, but here is the thing about using JB Weld.
If you use it on say something like a side cover, you can easily see if it starts to fail by the leaking oil.
Now, if it is part of the crankshaft you only know it isn't there anymore when the engine locks up.
 
#31
[QUOTE="pishta, post: 1311553, member: 8145 Well use JB weld to fill the old oil groove as we dont want the oil to drain out of the journal. :p[/QUOTE]

I would NEVER use JB Weld for that purpose.
Michael
 
#32
All for your enthusiasm and wish you good results, but here is the thing about using JB Weld.
If you use it on say something like a side cover, you can easily see if it starts to fail by the leaking oil.
Now, if it is part of the crankshaft you only know it isn't there anymore when the engine locks up.
Its just to fill a gap, no where for it to go. Michael...noted.
 
#33
It really isn't worth the effort or time. I can see this as a temporary fix on a farm or isolated place where a new one or parts would take too long to wait for.

I see your in SoCal too. Finding a horizontal for cheap or free is possible if you spend some time searching.

You have any pictures of your Powell you can share?
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#34
How do you add/ check oil? What do you bolt it to in order to start it? I can wait, but please explain when you get to that point?
The deck had 3 threaded mounting points. Im going to make a 9X8 L bracket that will mount the motor at the 3 points around the shaft and then have the standard 4 point mount on the bottom. For oil, the original filler was a 7/8 pipe that sits .57 off the new horizontal deck and there is a pipe plug on the original that was a drain at 2 inches off the deck now. The same oil slinger/governor is used on both H and V shaft motors so Im thinking the same .7l of oil and see where that ends up through the old drain pipe plug 2" high. I could possibly make the original 7/8 filler tube work by heating and bending it up instead of out as originally configured. Could anyone tell me where their dipstick registers full in relation to the floor of the case?
 
#36
Then why do you keep doing it?
That post was a reply to an older post under my other name. Would you like to contribute constructively to this post (your 0 for 3) or just knock a fellow hobbyist down? I'm the same guy, Ill try and post under the blue P account to keep things more simple.
 

Lizardking

Well-Known Member
#37
No doubt it will work and we just didn't want you to waste your time and effort on it. No hating going on here.

What's your plans for the Powell besides using this engine?

FYI... Having and using 2 profiles is a red flag around these parts. Too many scammers that do it to take advantage of this community. Not saying you are one...
 
#38
How do you add/ check oil? What do you bolt it to in order to start it? I can wait, but please explain when you get to that point?
Add oil through pipe plug on side, it's 2" above the floor a d the old filler is .57 off the floor. I can make site glass from that old 7/8 fill out of plastic.
No doubt it will work and we just didn't want you to waste your time and effort on it. No hating going on here.

What's your plans for the Powell besides using this engine?

FYI... Having and using 2 profiles is a red flag around these parts. Too many scammers that do it to take advantage of this community. Not saying you are one...
I'll post on my pishta
 
#40
expand...I'll post on my pishta account from now on. I'm going to clean up the frame, maybe throw some compound on it to see if the paint will come around and do something with the forks. I'm not sure if they were chrome at one time or just silver finish. The rims are rough. The AL is highly oxidized but the sprockets in good shape I'll see if they can be cleaned up. For the parts: if it's metal, i can save. If it's AL, we'll see what 50 Years has done to it. I have had good luck with Eagle etching mag cleaner to brighten AL but it's caustic..Simple green works pretty good to but it takes some scrubbing. I've seen some Challengers that look to have white rims...painted? Or do they just look white in pics?
 
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