What oil do YOU use?

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#2
If it's not a race motor, regular cheap 10-30, or 10-40 will do. The synthetic oil is better for protection, but if your engine isn't turning over 5,000 RPM there is no use.

It's like buying race gas for your pickup truck.

In my years of building I never had a blow up dew to oil related problems. Unless you just don't have any in the motor.
 
#3
Soooooooooo, only one guy even puts oil in the engine eh? :rolleyes5:

MDB, Synthetic couldn't hurt and for less than a quart, it's not going to break the bank. :thumbsup:
 
#6
it sounds like GTO is a big spender? anyway 10 W30 is all you need Synthetic is a waste unless your going over 5,000 RPM the only difference between the two is that synthetic doesnt break down at high RPM's and it is recamended that you change the oil every 50 hours anyway so it would be nothing but wasteful to use synthetic unless you reuse it...
 

65ShelbyClone

Well-Known Member
#7
I had some Valvoline 5w-30 in my turbo engine when I tried blowing it up. I blocked the blower housing inlet, but the engine just wouldn't bog or blow. I drained the oil and it came out like black water. After that it scattered no problem, but that's irrelevant.

An extreme example, but that's where synthetic really starts showing benefits. In anything but a race-prepped or badly abused engine, the cost:benefit ratio isn't that great. I've had petroleum oil do the same thing above, FWIW.
 
#8
Soooooooooo, only one guy even puts oil in the engine eh? :rolleyes5:

MDB, Synthetic couldn't hurt and for less than a quart, it's not going to break the bank. :thumbsup:
It actually could hurt if you use it before the engine is broke in. I have made that mistake and the rings never seated...
 
#9
It actually could hurt if you use it before the engine is broke in. I have made that mistake and the rings never seated...
Ahhhhhhhhhh_ HA! if synthetic is no better than standard oil then why would that be a problem EH????? ,,,,,EH? :ciappa:

Enigma, I mentioned beak-in in the starter thread. :thumbsup:


Pattyboy, if $3 of oil is a big spender I'd hate for you to buy me dinner! I'd ask for a burger and probably get ah,,,eh,,, "patty"! :rolleyes5:
 

Oldsalt

Well-Known Member
#12
I agree. For air cooled engines which can and do run hotter than liquid cooled engines a higher viscosity number is necessary. Not only do they run hotter but they are prone to have hot spots. Fan or no fan. OHV engines are a bit worse than flatheads because the rocker box cuts down on head cooling. OHC air cooled engines really have a problem, the head provides almost zero cooling. The head is, in large measure, cooled by oil in these designs.

Multi grade oils in a recreational vehicle make little sence.

If your mini bike engine is stock and runs with a gov put 10-W30 or any other Pep-Boys oil in it.
 
#15
10W40 Castrol dinosaur oil with a small dose of CLM.
CLM comes in a small bottle. It stands for Copper-Lead Mixture.
I've seen it work in a friction machine. It works.
I hope I can still get it. A bottle lasts awhile.

Steve from Albany,NY/Ocala,FL MW mini w/3.5hp Techumseh.
 
#17
Hey GTO

I always brake my engine in with just plain 30w, but then swap it out with Moble 1 V-twin 20-50 oil in my racing engines. And quaker state blend in my regular engines. No problems at all.

Josh
 
#18
AHHHH.......... Well In my race engine I run sime good ol' FHS racing oil, Its the lighting stock. Great stuff, The guy who makes it lives next to my parents. And in ym regular motors I run the same thing if I have enough. The FHS oils keep the motor cooler then regular oil.
 
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#20
good input from all. :thumbsup: I think synthetic is better (in any engine) and it can be found on sale half price in bulk , however it probably doesn't matter. :rockon:

I just wanted to know what people use and what weight/temp. Gotta run,, have a date in Detroit. :thumbsup:
 
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