Why Extend Carburetor?
- Thread starter BadGenetixx
- Start date
- Tags carburetor engine modifications help needed
I'll say 0% because my yardstick isn't metric and I'm not using it anyway.
The "ram effect" doesn't exist unless the intake points into the direction of travel of a moving vehicle. Intake resonance is what's dependent on length. The ideal intake tract length is usually several times longer than the vehicle itself, so compromises between pulse strength and intake length are made.
The "ram effect" doesn't exist unless the intake points into the direction of travel of a moving vehicle. Intake resonance is what's dependent on length. The ideal intake tract length is usually several times longer than the vehicle itself, so compromises between pulse strength and intake length are made.
They still make the T66 and T44 for those lanterns.
AS long as you are goin to run camping fuel then you fine.
The part numbers have changed not sure what the new equiv number is but I am sure you can buy new replacements.
Now if you goal is to do a kerosene conversion ( this is very popular because the they burn less fuel and generaly work better, trad off is you need to take the gen a part and clean it every 10 tanks of fuel with something like bore cleaning solvent fro gun to remove the carbon deposits that cloge them up ).
In many cases you can clean a generator.
Are these lanterns still functional or completely plugged up?
If you can get the spring and packing out to clean them I would try that first. If the inner working will not come out remove the gas tip with a small creseant wrench and hewat the gen up untill its dull red and drop it in a pail of water. The shock will usualy casue the now burned carbon to crack and makin it easier to clean. Odds are this has caused the paper like pacing inside to fall a part. Replace this as per my other video in this thread.
Use the 201 generator ( modern replacement for the TK66 ) in 242 and use the gas tip from a T66 in the T44 ( thus you have created the now impossible to find TK66 for the export kersene 2 mantle lantern ) In both cases you will also need the preheat cup or make one from a copper pipe cap to hold your preheat fuel.
This is the Canadian 1947 157 table lamp ( yes you read that correctly this is a lamp for inside your home ).
I modified it for K1.
It looks different from your American 220 lantern but they share many components ( like the T44 gen ). In this case I used the #6 gas tip and replaced the factory spring and asbestos packing with with some copper shielding tape ( sort of a fine knit copper fabric, I can mail you some if you feel you need to do this mod )
157 Kerosene test run - YouTube
These are the best mantles you can buy because they are Thorium ( do not eat mildly radio active unlike the current Coleman ones that are just poison )
The big ones are for your 242, the smaller for the 220
PEERLESS MANTLES 20 PER LOT FOR PRESSURE LANTERNS AND LAMPS SUCH AS COLEMAN | eBay
PEERLESS CLASSIC MANTLE LOT OF 20 FOR COLEMAN STYLE LANTERNS AND LAMPS NEW | eBay
I am trying to put too much information into this reply.
If confused send me a PM
AS long as you are goin to run camping fuel then you fine.
The part numbers have changed not sure what the new equiv number is but I am sure you can buy new replacements.
Now if you goal is to do a kerosene conversion ( this is very popular because the they burn less fuel and generaly work better, trad off is you need to take the gen a part and clean it every 10 tanks of fuel with something like bore cleaning solvent fro gun to remove the carbon deposits that cloge them up ).
In many cases you can clean a generator.
Are these lanterns still functional or completely plugged up?
If you can get the spring and packing out to clean them I would try that first. If the inner working will not come out remove the gas tip with a small creseant wrench and hewat the gen up untill its dull red and drop it in a pail of water. The shock will usualy casue the now burned carbon to crack and makin it easier to clean. Odds are this has caused the paper like pacing inside to fall a part. Replace this as per my other video in this thread.
Use the 201 generator ( modern replacement for the TK66 ) in 242 and use the gas tip from a T66 in the T44 ( thus you have created the now impossible to find TK66 for the export kersene 2 mantle lantern ) In both cases you will also need the preheat cup or make one from a copper pipe cap to hold your preheat fuel.
This is the Canadian 1947 157 table lamp ( yes you read that correctly this is a lamp for inside your home ).
I modified it for K1.
It looks different from your American 220 lantern but they share many components ( like the T44 gen ). In this case I used the #6 gas tip and replaced the factory spring and asbestos packing with with some copper shielding tape ( sort of a fine knit copper fabric, I can mail you some if you feel you need to do this mod )
157 Kerosene test run - YouTube
These are the best mantles you can buy because they are Thorium ( do not eat mildly radio active unlike the current Coleman ones that are just poison )
The big ones are for your 242, the smaller for the 220
PEERLESS MANTLES 20 PER LOT FOR PRESSURE LANTERNS AND LAMPS SUCH AS COLEMAN | eBay
PEERLESS CLASSIC MANTLE LOT OF 20 FOR COLEMAN STYLE LANTERNS AND LAMPS NEW | eBay
I am trying to put too much information into this reply.
If confused send me a PM
Last edited:
I haven't tried the 220, because I didn't want to run it without glass. The 242 spews liquid fuel out the top of the generator. They've sat for 30 years, and I'd feel safer with new generators. My Dad bought them new back in the day, and as a young adult, I used them once or twice, but them opted for the easier propane ones. I'm just looking to run Coleman fuel. I'll seriously look for those mantles. Nobody likes poison. And maybe you can answer another question. Back in the day, my Dad got these little wire "frames" that the mantles fit over to give them some support. I've looked a little, but do you know if they still make those? I know they're not a Coleman piece. One of mine has a broken wire, but I'd also like some for my propane lamp.
WHat you have there are probably Aladine lantern manltes.
These were not intended for presure lamps but I have seen all kindsf things adapted in a pinch.
For the 220 you need globe number 330 you can run them without the globe but wind and bugs tend to cause trouble.
If thats an American made 242C it was made before 1950 and its all brass. This means the tank can be bent and or dented easily
220s of the same vintage also tend to be brass so becareful
The 242 series and 200 share a lot of parts.
The and valve bodies are interchangeable.
This link will show you how to do a complete rebuild.
Frank did this step by step I beleive in nto stripping them unless you have to.
How to Rebuild a Coleman® Single Mantle Lantern: Lesson One, Disassembly: Old Town Coleman
I would sugest you wash out the fount with some carb cleaner and its its rusty use vineger and BBs then wash out and oil so the bottom does not rust.
See the two piece fuel cap?
95% of old 242Bs out there need that Oring replaced.
Get it from me or old town coleman sells them.
For the 220
How to Rebuild a Coleman® Double Mantle Lantern: Lesson One, Disassembly: Old Town Coleman
I would not remove the pump check valve unless it has a problem.
Here are some of the tools I have for this
Check valve tools picture by Dougwp - Photobucket
Generaly a big screw driver will not break it loose and its brass so its easy to strip.
These were not intended for presure lamps but I have seen all kindsf things adapted in a pinch.
For the 220 you need globe number 330 you can run them without the globe but wind and bugs tend to cause trouble.
If thats an American made 242C it was made before 1950 and its all brass. This means the tank can be bent and or dented easily
220s of the same vintage also tend to be brass so becareful
The 242 series and 200 share a lot of parts.
The and valve bodies are interchangeable.
This link will show you how to do a complete rebuild.
Frank did this step by step I beleive in nto stripping them unless you have to.
How to Rebuild a Coleman® Single Mantle Lantern: Lesson One, Disassembly: Old Town Coleman
I would sugest you wash out the fount with some carb cleaner and its its rusty use vineger and BBs then wash out and oil so the bottom does not rust.
See the two piece fuel cap?
95% of old 242Bs out there need that Oring replaced.
Get it from me or old town coleman sells them.
For the 220
How to Rebuild a Coleman® Double Mantle Lantern: Lesson One, Disassembly: Old Town Coleman
I would not remove the pump check valve unless it has a problem.
Here are some of the tools I have for this
Check valve tools picture by Dougwp - Photobucket
Generaly a big screw driver will not break it loose and its brass so its easy to strip.
No, they're not Aladdin mantles. It's a wire frame that is installed on where the mantle goes, and then you put the mantle over it. It gives the mantle perfect shape every time, at the initial burn, and provides support for the mantle during transport. My 220 has a pair of them, but one has broken where it twists tight on the rim that made for the mantle twine. It is stiff, so it still sits firm, but I'd like to replace it. If I could find the right type of wire, I'd make my own.
Now when you say "all brass", you mean just the painted pieces, right? Cause the piece that holds the glass and the piece under it(has the make and model) are steel, and at this point, somewhat rusty.
Now when you say "all brass", you mean just the painted pieces, right? Cause the piece that holds the glass and the piece under it(has the make and model) are steel, and at this point, somewhat rusty.
With the exception of the vent and bottom of the tank a 242C is all brass.
There are some exception because of material rationing on some 242. Most of this can be seen in Canadian version like the spring run of 46 242Bs that used surplus aluminum. This also carried over the war production 237 and 236 where steel was used on air tubes and nickel plate was rationed. Many of these surplus parts ended up used on post war lanterns.
I am not familiar with US production and these so called transition lanterns but I am fairly sure you have a more or less brass lantern.
Get the date code off the bottom and I will see if that jogs any memories.....
Those wire frames you talk about are an American thing.
I know what you are talking about now but we never did that in Canada.
Oh yes you said the painted pieces.....
Most American lanterns were for the US market so they were painted.
Canadians of the era tend to nickel plated brass or ecconomy versions that were brass with green paint. Most export lanterns were all nickel plated, they had to look good to compete with the likes of petromax and Tilley.
Coleman avoided Steel because of corosion issues and it was used only on the bottoms of the tanks in those days for strength. This is also the weakness of these lanterns the bottoms rust out.....
There are some exception because of material rationing on some 242. Most of this can be seen in Canadian version like the spring run of 46 242Bs that used surplus aluminum. This also carried over the war production 237 and 236 where steel was used on air tubes and nickel plate was rationed. Many of these surplus parts ended up used on post war lanterns.
I am not familiar with US production and these so called transition lanterns but I am fairly sure you have a more or less brass lantern.
Get the date code off the bottom and I will see if that jogs any memories.....
Those wire frames you talk about are an American thing.
I know what you are talking about now but we never did that in Canada.
Oh yes you said the painted pieces.....
Most American lanterns were for the US market so they were painted.
Canadians of the era tend to nickel plated brass or ecconomy versions that were brass with green paint. Most export lanterns were all nickel plated, they had to look good to compete with the likes of petromax and Tilley.
Coleman avoided Steel because of corosion issues and it was used only on the bottoms of the tanks in those days for strength. This is also the weakness of these lanterns the bottoms rust out.....
Mine are painted green. But the plot thickens. I found the date code on the 220 no problem. "1 61", which I assume means Jan. 1961. The 242, however, only has "11", and it's justified to the right, to match the year position of the 220. One thing I have done is underestimated the condition of the paint. I am getting access ta a sand blaster for an old Briggs resto, so I guess I'll be looking for some Coleman Green, unless you think I can polish up the brass. That would be much nicer. I got some pitting on the bottom, but not much. And I can take care of any rust in the tank.