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That is good to know! :thumbsup:

I have been looking into knock off torq-a-verters on various websites. I have also watched a few videos about the installation. In all of those videos, the driving pulley was secured into an engine output shaft that was internally threaded.... I am wondering if there is hardware to secure...

This site and OldMiniBikes Warehouse have been helpful to me in my efforts to learn more about small engines through hands-on working with them. I have a 6.5 hp clone in my Baja Warrior and with the gov removed, it has been fun! It is fun in my opinion to work on engine mods in a toy like a mini-bike...

I didn't know I would break the rules by posting my inquiry.

Hi all. I haven't posted in a long time! I am considering selling my used Baja Warrior MB200. It served its purpose of being something fun to work on/learn from and ride for this past fall till now (little more than 8 months of intermittent use). I've never jumped the bike, but have ridden...

Hi. My Baja MB200 that I got last August also had that motor OEM. All I know is that it is a 6.5 hp Honda clone and that it works! :thumbsup: I don't care in particular who made it hehe.

I didn't check this....:blink: Am I going to run into any issues? I didn't check this because I figured that the ARC came with actual bearings (the stock rod was just a machined surface that rode on the crank pin) with oil channels and that that automatically had to be way better than the...

Hi all! I managed to get the OEM motor that came with the MB200 back together; start it and not blow it or myself up! :smile: The inductive pickup tach registered a max RPM around 6000; that was at wide open throttle with the throttle linkage pegged to wot. It didn't seem like it could rev...

nvm; just removed the lighting coils since the ARC flywheel doesn't have magnets for them nor does it have clearance to fit around them.... No big loss as the stock lighting setup sucked anyway.....

One more thing to confirm: does the ARC billet flywheel not have magnets that will power the lighting coils that came on the 6.5hp clone sold with the OEM MB200? That is, I might as well remove those lighting coils if the billet flywheel doesn't have the magnets for it....

After one has snugged the head bolts with fingers, what is the proper torquing sequence? Please refer to the figure below:

So I installed the ARC rod today. :smile: 2 things I bought which I didn't have before were assembly lube and the 12-pt 1/4" socket (surprisingly unless I lost it, that was the only "common" socket that my mechanics tool set didn't have; I had down to 5/16" 12-pt.....). One thing I noticed...

I have a fairly old Craftsman snowblower (single cyl., 17.5 HP OHV) that refuses to stay running... I had to replace the metal connector from the plug wire to the plug (became damaged) since I removed the plug so many times to check its condition or to unflood the cylinder. Basically, I...

One last (maybe) question: The ARC rod install instructions call for use of assembly lube and 30W oil for the rod bolts. How critical is it to use those exact items? I don't have either of those lying around, but I do have several weights of clean motor oil for my car (10W30 and maybe some...

Well, I removed everything just fine. I will keep the OE rod and flywheel as backups. I have 2 more questions (1 stupid one and 1 smart one): 1) Which way does the ARC billet rod install? That is, I'm fairly certain that the oil dipper on the rod cap points toward the right (toward the...

too late! parts were shipped yesterday... Anyway, info gained for next time! I mainly just want to make this motor safer.

Makes sense! I guess that means I need to order a few head gaskets (which i did not order in my recent billet rod/flywheel list hehe) too. It is more than likely that the head gasket can't be re-used? Anyway I can still take the stuff apart at least because my new parts haven't shipped yet...

One more question before I attempt to remove the old rod today after work: Once the rod cap and crankshaft have been removed, can the piston/rod be removed down through the crank side? Or does the head have to come off to remove said subassembly up through the top?

Just to clarify in my first post: He meant (and I mean) that if your vehicle is already moving, and you then remove your foot totally off the throttle; that it does not consume any gas. The first reply in this thread prompted me to add clarification.

So I just remembered something that has bugged my mind in terms of why a clear cut answer is not easily found on the internet - at least one I could find. I have tried searching at various times and not finding anything. Here goes: Back in high school, I knew a little about internal...