+.175 stroker crank and UT2 piston in 196 clone.
I'm 99% sure the billet +.175 crank requires a wiseco piston to be used, which has the (EDIT [MENTION=43506]trinik7597[/MENTION] - Thanks buddy) smaller than stock wristpin and you just deck your block or mill the top of the wiseco piston. Maybe a rod exists and I just overlooked it???
ARC rod that is compatible with the ARC stroker crank
ARC rod
Pretty sure the below will allow a stock piston to be used, but it's only +.060 more stroke.
Honda stroker crank
I had a thought of using a predator crank in a 196 clone, predator rod, and boring the block to 2.756, using the predator flat top. It would only be +.040 more stroke but lots cheaper than the Honda cranks, I guess I should say that was the cheapest setup I found.
ARC rod that is compatible with the ARC stroker crank
ARC rod
Pretty sure the below will allow a stock piston to be used, but it's only +.060 more stroke.
Honda stroker crank
I had a thought of using a predator crank in a 196 clone, predator rod, and boring the block to 2.756, using the predator flat top. It would only be +.040 more stroke but lots cheaper than the Honda cranks, I guess I should say that was the cheapest setup I found.
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Yes, we all agree, just get a larger motor to begin with. GX200 Hondas and Clones are the basis of MANY open builds, and if your class is the GX200 open class, the stroker crank allows you to build one of the baddest open GX200's you can. I think this is mostly Kart racing driven, versus mini bike driven.
"Only." But you do have to love the cottage industries that have sprang up as a result of people buying parts to make $100 engines run like GX's and LO 206's that "has" benefited the mini bike crowd.
What kind of power do the open class engines make to be competitive, and what is the average cost of buying one from a reputable builder? It seems to me that this option may be more cost-effective than running through after market parts, tuning problems, and expensive "learning curves" at the hand of a Dremel.
What kind of power do the open class engines make to be competitive, and what is the average cost of buying one from a reputable builder? It seems to me that this option may be more cost-effective than running through after market parts, tuning problems, and expensive "learning curves" at the hand of a Dremel.
Oh I concur Dave, as you hear often, "its all good as I plan on building 2-3 more engines", and that is good because as you stated, buying parts to make $100 engines run like GX's do in the first place, leaves a man with plenty of leftover "Trial and Error" parts. Most of the reputable builders have removed the guess work and know versus playing the learning curve game. I am unsure of the power that open engines make, and most arent listed, and I dont own one lol.
These guys show an excess of 31HP for their "Signature Series Pro OHV Open Modified.....$2450", now this engine might be the extreme of what a person would spend for a Open Clone, I am sure there are more cost effective ones :shrug:
It has ALL the good stuff, and an upgrade to a Genuine Honda block is +$100
JRPW engines
These guys show an excess of 31HP for their "Signature Series Pro OHV Open Modified.....$2450", now this engine might be the extreme of what a person would spend for a Open Clone, I am sure there are more cost effective ones :shrug:
It has ALL the good stuff, and an upgrade to a Genuine Honda block is +$100
JRPW engines
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Well I will never be a kart racer but I am all for making things faster. Looking at the cost of things I might as well buy the whole Predator and steal the parts from it. The crank is about $35-40 and the piston is about $15 but NR charges a lot for shipping and I would probably pay about $70 in the end for these parts. I will have to make my way to Harbor Freight.
I'm wondering when a Predator stopped being a Honda clone. LMAO! Hey, have you guys ever bought a Briggs LO206 and threw the crank away, then tossed in a Predator crank, and Weisco piston with a Honda 160 head? 
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I'm wondering when a Predator stopped being a Honda clone. LMAO! Hey, have you guys ever bought a Briggs LO206 and threw the crank away, then tossed in a Predator crank, and Weisco piston with a Honda 160 head? :hack:
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Ok so I ordered a 2.756" block. You guys think I should try to build a 212 or a 208? The clone and predator cranks are about the same price. Going to be running a stock predator piston. So if I go with the predator crank are the Hemi and non Hemi both drop ins? I want to run the non Hemi if I go 212 due to the flywheel I have picked out. Part # 6621-P its an ACR that uses the PVL coil and looks like it still uses the stock pull start. I cant seam to find this same flywheel for the Hemi. I want a pull start and I want the Brigs coil for the rev limiter. If I go 208 dose the pistons have the same wrist pin diameter or do I need to mod the rod or piston for this? Also will a +.100 rod with the Clone crank and Predator piston put the piston at 0" deck? Do I use the .550 or the .570 compression height piston?
2.756" block is the 212 predator block. I would go 212, more stroke, why not? Hemi and non hemi cranks are both drop in, but the hemi has a different taper than the non hemi, and neither will accept a 196 clone flywheel(same as Honda taper). If you go 208 that will mean you are using the 196 clone crank, and the crank journal is smaller on the 196 crank compared to the Predator(hemi or non hemi). [MENTION=1551]prowler[/MENTION] can probably answer you better if a 196 crank is used, and a predator piston, if the wrist pin on the rod will need to be modified or not. Deck height on these blocks is not consistent, so don't order a rod, or a piston until you have measured your in the hole amount, at that point, get a longer rod or deck your block to get to 0 pop up.
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What I got was a 196 clone block bored to 2.756." I talked to ACR today and decided I would do the 208. Going to run the 196 clone Clone crank and rod combo with the predator piston. I wanted to start with a complete motor on this build but looks like I am going to do it the hard way. The over bore block was only $5 more than a normal bore. ACR said with a +.020 crank it should put the piston just slightly below the deck depending on crank and block or around .003-.005 below. The predator piston is a lot more common than the UT2 I originally planned in the beginning. Want to put the piston as close to 0" deck as I can so if I want to play with compression a little later down the road. There are a few more options for the 196 as far as flywheels go too.