6.5 clone-- too slow?

#1
Ok, I went from a 2.5 briggs, 12 tooth clutch, 70 rear and was getting 26 mph with a gps tracking the speed. I put on the 6.5 clone, same clutch and rear,stock engine governor not removed and can only go 17 mph now. Is the governer holding back the speed or does the engine need to break in for a while? Thanks.
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#2
With that gearing you should flip over when you hit the throttle. You have to remember when adding more TQ you have to gear it higher. Your RPM might be lower being that you may still have the governor hooked up, but the motor should be getting to that 17mph is a few seconds.
 
#3
Have you made sure your Throttle and linkage is traveling correctly?

It isnt hitting anything is it? Is the throttle stop screwed all the way out?
 
#4
What sprocket should go to in the rear? Its real strong off the line for about 1 or 2 seconds then real flat, already toped out. The throttle seams to be opening all the way. On the agk site they used a shorter spring to the carb, I used the stock set up with a similar throttle set up. What was the purpose of the shorter spring? Thanks.
 

tripp

New Member
#6
The stock full throttle position is only about half throttle. I would back out the throttle stop screw as far as you can for now. And probably remove the govener when you have time Mine does at least 45 to 50 with the stock gear on back and a 12 up front.
 

rudedog

New Member
#7
Yeah, I've got a 12t on the clutch, and a stock 64t on the rear of our 1 DB, I weigh 350+ and it'll flat out move with me on it. If you're sub 200# you should be going over the back easily.
 

den35

New Member
#8
Yeah, I've got a 12t on the clutch, and a stock 64t on the rear of our 1 DB, I weigh 350+ and it'll flat out move with me on it. If you're sub 200# you should be going over the back easily.

Amen,Brother!I'm only 150# and mine has nearly left me sitting on the ground a few times.(Mine has the same gearing as yours)
 
#9
I think the shorter throttle rod, seen on afg is meant for an ungoverned engine. I found that if you simply hook up the cable and make sure the travel is the same as with the maual throttle lever, the bike runs like a raped ape on steroids ! I think better brakes might not be a bad idea.
 

tripp

New Member
#10
Brakes? Ours went away with about 5 hrs on it. Fred flintstone style for now.

anyone know what pads to order for the stock calipers?
 
#12
The hand throttle has the same travel but it dosn't seem to open the throttle on top of the carb more than a crack. I m thinking the agk site used the shorter rod straight to the carb to open the carb throttle all the way. That sound right? Thanks.
 
#13
Ok, so I made a shorter rod from the hand throttle to the carb like on the agk site and now it RUNS like it should. The only problem is now its real hard to start, you have to crack the throttle while pulling the rope. Is running it with the governor still inside the engine but with all those springs removed causing the hard start problem and will it screw up the engine? Thanks.
 

tripp

New Member
#14
That's what I have to do as well. no big deal. you can adjust the idle up a little but keep it below clutch ingagement (obviously). Once warmed up you may not have to crack the throttle:grind:
 
#15
i have to crack the throttle on both of mine that have the governors removed for them to start. one is a 5.5 clone and the other is a 3.5 tecumseh.
 
#16
All I did was loosen the throttle pivot bolt to reduce friction, back out the throttle stop screw all the way, and connect the cable to the throttle lever. Does that mean I'm not getting full throttle? I thought I was because the thing is unbelievably fast ! I left the governor in tact along with all the springs. How can I check to make sure I'm getting full throttle ?
 
#17
I thought I was getting full throttle until I took off the air filter box and watched. The hand throttle was open all the way but it was only cracking the main throttle on the carb about half open then returning to kind of off idle. that works great if your using steady throttle, not off and on like we do on our minis. I went to the shorter rod to the carb and that gave me full throttle and scared the crap out of me the first time I tried it.
 

tripp

New Member
#18
To see that your getting full throttle just remove the airbox and observe the rotation of the actual throttle arm that is resting on the top of the carb. it doesn't have to turn very much. From the factory, the manual throttle, when slid to the full position, is really only about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If you are going to run above this range make sure at least the govenor arm is removed from the govenor shaft or take the links off the govenor arm. When you are operating in an rpm range above the factory setting, the govener forces constant back pressure on the throttle arm ( to prevent it from reaching this level). The actual throttle arm is only made of plastic and I would imagine over time it may fatigue under the forces applied from the gov. just a thought...:grind:
 
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