A few Heald Super Bronc questions

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rdojo

New Member
#1
#1
Hello everyone. I hope this is posted in the right place.
I recently purchased a Super Bronc on craigslist.

bike.JPG

Before even trying to start it I replaced the carb and air filter.
IMG_20170108_1736223.jpg

I had to pull off the old rusted muffler, and the new one is in the mail.

I then drained the oil and refilled it, then filled the top gas tank.

She started up after a few pulls.

Here are my current issues.
First, i cant figure out how to stop the thing. I cant find a kill switch.
There is THIS on the left handlebar:
switch.JPG

It looks like a blinker, but it has two other buttons on it. neither of them seem to kill the motor.
the bike eventually stops if you give it full throttle. probably have some mixture / choke tweaking to do to keep the thing going.
my second issue is the belt.

belt1.JPG
Im no expert, but this doesn't seem right.
I found this number on it: 203-026 DF
and I ordered one online.
Is the belt just old, is there some other way i am supposed to tighten it that I don't see?
thanks in advance for any help.
 
chatten63

chatten63

#2
#2
Welcome. The switch on top of the handle bars is the kill switch and headlight switch for low beam and high beam. The black rectangular one is the kill button. The wires are kinda small going into the switch. If it is connected there go to the headlight. All wires are in headlight bucket. If good there check the plug coming out of motor. Another thing you can do is take a wire strip it back and place it into the very top spade fitting on plug coming out of motor. With motor running this wire being grounded out should shut down the motor. The bottom two terminals are your power from motor. One side should be around 2-amps and other could be up to 10 amp. If it stays running you have a broken wire in side of the motor on armature. Hope this makes sense and helps you out.
 
lostinbaja

lostinbaja

Member
#3
#3
The belt tension actually looks about right. As the RPM increases the front clutch closes on the sides of the belt and as the rpm increases more it will pull the belt down into the rear sheave to function as a transmission. If the belt were tighter the bike would want to move at idle speed.
 
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rdojo

New Member
#4
#4
ok, so i will start off by taking apart that switch to see if its wired still.
as far as the belt goes, when I throttle i DO NOT see the clutch closing on the sides. that must be the issue.
 
Docdc

Docdc

#5
#5
Hey rdojo!

The best advise I can give you is to call Ron Kimball at Powertec and get the build sheet and the sheet for wiring. Not only that, if you need the 7 conductor cable to go from the switch to the headlight bucket, he has that also. It is WELL worth the few dollars you will spend.

Power Tec Replacement Parts | Kimball Hauler | Heald Hauler | Chi Products | Haulmaster Hauler | Pug | Super Bronc | Trail Bronc | Heald Hauler Parts | Super Bronc Parts | Super Tryke Parts | Haulmaster Hauler Parts

Doc
 
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creia

creia

#6
#6
If that belt is old and/or the bike has not been run in a long time (suspected) get yourself a new one from Ron Kimball mentioned in Doc's post above. ^^^^
To test the operation of the torque converter driver and driven, block the bike up off the ground (safely and securely of course!) so that the rear wheel is off the ground. Start the engine and slowly/gradually increase the throttle. You should see the outer sheaves of BOTH going in and out. If no movement, they are corroded or otherwise frozen and you will need to take them apart and get them working freely. That was the case with the VT-8 my son purchased earlier this year, which had not been run in over 20 years. When the torque converter is working properly these bikes can climb anything and are torque monsters and can get away from you if you are not careful.
Michael
 
Docdc

Docdc

#7
#7
OK rdojo,

I am REALLY putting myself out here lol! I am sure I am gonna get some kick back with my hand drawings.:laugh::eek:ut: I drew this switch diagram so I wouldn't get grease and stufff all over my build sheet. It's in my language so I hope you can make something of it. I still HIGHLY recommend you get the sheets from Ron Kimball. I hope this helps even just a little bit.

Doc


 
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rdojo

New Member
#8
#8
Wow Docdc, that's awesome!
I really appreciate everyone's help.

michael, i will test the torque tomorrow.
You say I should see BOTH going in and out, and i assume you mean the front and back wheels that the belt is attached too. The back looks like some sort of centrifugal clutch, like on a weed wacker. Is that not what that is?

EDIT:
ok so i took the back wheel of the belt off (torque converter clutch pulley?)
and i noticed a few things that seem wrong.
first the spring does not feet neatly. it bulges out. and second, there is only one pad on the thing, and it seems to want 3.
*see photos.

as far as the front wheel (torque converter? sorry im new to this stuff) when i run the bike without the belt it does move inward. then when the bike stops it stays inward, and i can freely move it back outward. no spring pulling it back or anything.
 

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lostinbaja

lostinbaja

Member
#9
#9
You can lube the clutch internals with a dry graphite spray to get it moving smoothly. From my snowmobiling days I would imagine there shoul be a spring in the front clutch.
 
Docdc

Docdc

#10
#10
Hi rdojo,

OK, some clarification so that we can talk to you and vice versa. The device on the engine crank is called the "driver". It "drives" the whole system. The larger disk is called "the driven". It is what the driver affects.

Now...your driver has NO spring in it to bring the sheaves back and forth. Those sheaves just move back and forth on their own. There is an internal spring to hold the shoes together but it does not act on the sheaves. As far as I can tell, you have no problem with the driver. It will need to be lubricated but it takes a special dry film lubricant so don't go pouring oil or grease on it lol!

Your driven has a few problems to it. There are three buttons on it that you have already found. Two of them are missing and the third is worn past it's service life.

Someone will have to help you with the spring as I can't remember off the top of my head how it winds back on.

Go to the Comet web page and look at the drawings. You can get parts there too AND the dry lube. If I remember correctly you don't lube the driven. Just the driver.

Comet Drive Belts | Belts for Comet Torque Converters
Comet 30 Series Torque Converters | Comet Parts - Clutches

Hope this helps a little...it took me quite a while to get the concept o driver-driven lol!

Here is the page to service the system.
Torque Converter Lubricant | Dry Film Lube | 1-800-914-KART

Doc
 
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R

rdojo

New Member
#11
#11
ok.
now according to that page mine is an Asymmetric Set Up, making it a series 30, right?
out of curiosity, can the whole thing be replaced with a series 40 on both sides or does the bike engine need it to be a 30?
Just trying to learn as much as I can. My driven wheel has 3 buttons on it, but a lot of wheels I see have 6. and I can find replacement buttons and springs for 6 easily.
thanks again!
 
Docdc

Docdc

#12
#12
rdojo said:
ok.
now according to that page mine is an Asymmetric Set Up, making it a series 30, right?
out of curiosity, can the whole thing be replaced with a series 40 on both sides or does the bike engine need it to be a 30?
Just trying to learn as much as I can. My driven wheel has 3 buttons on it, but a lot of wheels I see have 6. and I can find replacement buttons and springs for 6 easily.
thanks again!
Click to expand...
I believe yours is a series 30. As far as putting a series 40 on it, I defer to Rick Chatten and others for that answer.

As far as the buttons, I have never seen one with 6 buttons. I am just familiar with the 20/30 series. I can tell you that from what I see, as long as you have it apart, you may as well replace the buttons and possibly the spring.

I have to tell you up front that I am not a torque converter expert lolol! I like you learned because I had to rebuild what I had. Sadly I couldn't get Buckeye to come up here and rebuild it for me. Something about being cold or something. I don't know.:laugh:

This is only personal but I would definitely leave it as a 30 series. I would call Ron up at powertec and chat with him as he was instrumental in the bike and it's developement. He is great to talk to and he'll talk or hours if you are willing to listen. You will learn everything about that bike. It's one of the best ever made and I would never think about selling my Healds.

Doc
 
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rdojo

New Member
#16
#16
I got the flexible muffler tubeing from ron at powertech. He told me it was not threaded and I would have to attach it with some sort of hose clamp. I guess I got the wrong thing because it just shakes off when I run the bike. Any advice?
 

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RobertC

RobertC

#17
#17
Keep in mind the muffler must be supported by it's own system of attachment...bracket, fender or some such solid mounting point. There should be no significant weight on the flex tubing.
 
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rdojo

New Member
#18
#18
it is attached to the fender, so its not 'falling off' the bike. i will take a short video so you can see what its doing. its like staying still (As it is attached to the bike) and as the engine shakes the threaded nipple goes in and out of the tubing freely, so the hose clamp does nothing.
 
creia

creia

#19
#19
That hose clamp will not work as it cannot be torqued enough to compress the exhaust tubing. You need to install an exhaust U-bolt that is made for this purpose. Here is the one we purchased. It will require a bit of filing (we used a Dremel tool) to get the ID just right for your exhaust tubing. 1" EXHAUST U BOLT CLAMP NEW AP 4925 | eBay
Michael
 
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