I bought a hf for 59$+tax and well Iv been breaking it in on the doghouse roof. Three oil changes allready. Just letting it run at varied throttle settings. Let it run at half throttle for well I dont know I forgot about it and it ran out of gas. I didnt have anything to put load on it because I dont have wheels yet. Is this a no harm no foul thing? The engine runs probly the best out of all the engines iv gotten there. Thanks
Bench break in??
- Thread starter fallenfast1
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- Tags bench break in??
I do like to put a load on them.
I do that with everything.
Just start off nice and gentle.
Get the engine warmed up and drain the oil.
Let it cool check to see all the bolts are tight
Get it warmed up under a light load and drive it like a new car.
for 1/2 an hour.
Check oil and look for leaks and problems see what the oil looks like....
Compare the oil from the first and second changes watch and see how much metal is in there. When you see its dropping off the engine is breaking in nicely and drive it at what you think is about 6 hp worth of load....
Change oil 3 times in first 2 hours.
Its a pain but that way you know there is no dirt and cuttings from break in and assembly chewing up the innards of the engine
I do that with everything.
Just start off nice and gentle.
Get the engine warmed up and drain the oil.
Let it cool check to see all the bolts are tight
Get it warmed up under a light load and drive it like a new car.
for 1/2 an hour.
Check oil and look for leaks and problems see what the oil looks like....
Compare the oil from the first and second changes watch and see how much metal is in there. When you see its dropping off the engine is breaking in nicely and drive it at what you think is about 6 hp worth of load....
Change oil 3 times in first 2 hours.
Its a pain but that way you know there is no dirt and cuttings from break in and assembly chewing up the innards of the engine
I don't drive anything like its stollen.
Put a white hat on my and let me lower the seat so I can only see through the stearing wheel and send me down the highway.
Changing oil is important within the first heat cycle where the engine will shed the most metal. It should be a short cycle too.
Change oil often 3 times durring break in.
This is not expensive and its good piece of mind.
Look at the oil, it will tell you a lot about what is going on inside as will the plug and blow by if you are running a catch can.
As for how much load you need depends on the rings and cylinder finnish.
As built clones are not going to break in fast.
If you are running built clone a UT1 piston 1mm ring set and plateu finnished bore then I would be more concerned because you don't have a lot of time seat the rings ( as the machining is so tight they are more or less broken in as they sit after assembly ).
The smartest thing of all to do is strip you new clone right out of the box and checl to see its actualy clean inside and everything is torqued correctly. I find grit inside places like the hollow of the gudgeon pin nd sometimes dirty bores and fall out from material in the plant that wafts around and settles on parts durring assembly.
Put a white hat on my and let me lower the seat so I can only see through the stearing wheel and send me down the highway.
Changing oil is important within the first heat cycle where the engine will shed the most metal. It should be a short cycle too.
Change oil often 3 times durring break in.
This is not expensive and its good piece of mind.
Look at the oil, it will tell you a lot about what is going on inside as will the plug and blow by if you are running a catch can.
As for how much load you need depends on the rings and cylinder finnish.
As built clones are not going to break in fast.
If you are running built clone a UT1 piston 1mm ring set and plateu finnished bore then I would be more concerned because you don't have a lot of time seat the rings ( as the machining is so tight they are more or less broken in as they sit after assembly ).
The smartest thing of all to do is strip you new clone right out of the box and checl to see its actualy clean inside and everything is torqued correctly. I find grit inside places like the hollow of the gudgeon pin nd sometimes dirty bores and fall out from material in the plant that wafts around and settles on parts durring assembly.
Was anything mentioned in the instruction manual?
I've only had to break in a Tecumseh 5hp enduro. It was a present/go kart project with my bro in probably 1996.
I think we ran a full tank of gas idling and half throttling in 15 minute intervals till the tank was empty. changed oil and I think that was it. My bro might have set the throttle a little lower at first for the first few hours of run time.
I've only had to break in a Tecumseh 5hp enduro. It was a present/go kart project with my bro in probably 1996.
I think we ran a full tank of gas idling and half throttling in 15 minute intervals till the tank was empty. changed oil and I think that was it. My bro might have set the throttle a little lower at first for the first few hours of run time.
TO idle anything for an extended amount of time is not good.
Its not what they were meant to do.
The idea behind changing RPM and loading is the rings will take a set at all speeds and different loads.
At idle there is not as much presure on the rings and they take a set at the RPM they ran the longest at.
Its not what they were meant to do.
The idea behind changing RPM and loading is the rings will take a set at all speeds and different loads.
At idle there is not as much presure on the rings and they take a set at the RPM they ran the longest at.
Iron rings in an iron bore will seat quickly, probably regardless of how the engine is run-in. Going through elaborate break-in procedures with these utility engines is not necessary.
Personally, I attempt to seat rings with moderate load/acceleration followed by a short period of engine braking unless the ring manufacturer says otherwise. Actually, that's what Hastings says to do.
Personally, I attempt to seat rings with moderate load/acceleration followed by a short period of engine braking unless the ring manufacturer says otherwise. Actually, that's what Hastings says to do.
I still refuse to buy one of these engines, and I don't know anything about the warranty they come with, but....most trouble with a cheap Chinese engine will surface in the first couple of hours you run them, bad tolerances, poor casting or inferior rotating assy. etc. etc. will show up pretty quickly, so a slow break in period won't do much good. So riding it like your going to be riding it from the get go is probably the best break in you can do (and I don't mean with the governor bypassed!) So if it's going to fail, get it over with and get another engine.