billet rod help... ASAP

Strigoi

Strigoi

#1
#1
i've got my motor all torn apart and can not get the bearings to fit the rod. i'm at my work and one of the mechanics thinks they're the wrong ones and won't fit.

i was wondering if there's supposed to be an oiling hole in these. i noticed on the ARC site that they show the bearings having one. they sent me the 6294 bearings to go with this and i/we think they're wrong. from looking at AGK, i think i need the 6394 bearings.

ARC is closed today so i can't call and find out.

anyone know for sure? i'm just going to stick the flywheel on and put the rest of the motor back together. this sucks because i wanted to ride tomorrow.
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
Strigoi said:
i've got my motor all torn apart and can not get the bearings to fit the rod. i'm at my work and one of the mechanics thinks they're the wrong ones and won't fit.

i was wondering if there's supposed to be an oiling hole in these. i noticed on the ARC site that they show the bearings having one. they sent me the 6294 bearings to go with this and i/we think they're wrong. from looking at AGK, i think i need the 6394 bearings.

ARC is closed today so i can't call and find out.

anyone know for sure? i'm just going to stick the flywheel on and put the rest of the motor back together. this sucks because i wanted to ride tomorrow.
Click to expand...
I just checked my parts and I have the 6394 bearings, both halves have oil holes....

You may want to pull the crank and get some emery clothe and polish it good before installing the new rod since your engine is used... I'd definately do the plasti gauge thing also, a little extra time now is better than a broken rod later..
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#4
#4
125cc, thanks. that's what i needed to know. the crank is out now so i'll polish it up (had other issues and had to remove it). i also need a new crank bearing. it's torn down to just the case right now.

bandit, 6270 is the number for the rod. i was asking about the number for the bearings for the rod.
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#6
#6
i wish i would have checked better yesterday before tearing everything apart. at least then i could ride tomorrow.

i did get the valve springs installed though. i'm thinking about picking up a cam since everything is apart which means i'll have to go with 26lb springs instead.
 
npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#7
#7
Im waiting on an order from AGK right now and they told me that the ARC bearings are on back order until this Wednesday. They must have gotten an order of bearings that werent the right ones and unfortunately sent them out without realizing. You probably got one of those, I'd contact ARC and let them know or where ever you bought your rod from. Tom and Hunter at ARC are good guys just give them a call, they want their customers happy.
 
npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#8
#8
Also Strigoi I dont know what springs you got but im guessing their 18pders and those will work well with the $50 dyno cams, add a set of 1.2 rockers and thats some cheap HP right there.
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#9
#9
i tried calling ARC today and they're closed. i'll try again monday.

i got the 18lb springs. i'm not sure which cam i want to do yet. i'd like to go with one of the bigger ones but don't really want to spend the money or need it at this point. i'll most likely go with the 265 modified. i'm going to order a flat top piston too and am thinking about the bolt/stud kit as well.
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#10
#10
Strigoi said:
i wish i would have checked better yesterday before tearing everything apart. at least then i could ride tomorrow.

i did get the valve springs installed though. i'm thinking about picking up a cam since everything is apart which means i'll have to go with 26lb springs instead.
Click to expand...

What cam are you going to run?? Any head work??
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#11
#11
no head work yet. i'll probably look into getting the head milled pretty soon. my friend's friend can do it for me (probably for free).

i'll most likely go with the 265 modified from AGK.
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#12
#12
Strigoi said:
no head work yet. i'll probably look into getting the head milled pretty soon. my friend's friend can do it for me (probably for free).

i'll most likely go with the 265 modified from AGK.
Click to expand...
If you get the cam soon you'll have to let me know how the engine performs :thumbsup: I am undecided on a cam, thinking the 308 but I'd probably have to go with a big valve head which wouldnt be too bad as it would be a little over a hundo more than buying stainless valves, springs, locks ect for my head.... I just want to build a crazy sounding engine with some kick butt torque....

I picked up my 13/6.5-6 slick and mounted it on the wheel I showed ya, I also ordered some new spin on hubs for the sprocket and rotor, now I can just bolt the sprocket on where as I had the other one welded to the stock freewheel hub,,, should work good...
 
TT

TT

#13
#13
All joking aside. Build it later in the week. Change your plans for tomorrow. Maybe some shooting practice or hunting will do some good for the process. If, I had Shanes Cell number, I would PM it to you! I do not...

Keep steady corse, I hear the gun control laws are to be changed. I got an email stating so. pdf file from the Government. I also got a pocket flashlight email that unfolds to a semi auto with a shoulder rest. I will send you that also if I have an address. It will be a fine motor, when it's ready...

Have a great day tomorrow and smile!

TT :doah:
 
npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#14
#14
I plan on running the .265 Modified with 26 pd springs, Im going to have the cam lobes hardened though because I hear they can get worn down a lot with 26pd'ers. Im also pretty sure the .265 modified is actually .275 lift, that's what NR racings website says. Im going to be running chromoly pushrods and 1.2 rockers with the cam too, hopefully it gives me some good HP.

Also if your planning on getting a flatop and milling the head check the NR-Racing compression ratio charts to make sure you dont go over 11:1 compression:
http://www.nr-racing.com/manuals/gx200comp.xls
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#16
#16
Strigoi said:
why wouldn't i want to go over 11:1 compression?

i can't open that .xls thing here either, i don't have excel. :hammer:
Click to expand...
I can open it but I can't figure out how to copy and paste it so it doesnt get all out of wack, everytime I tried the chart got scrammbled LOL... So I cheated and took a pic, hope this helps..
 
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npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#17
#17
11:1 Is a good compression ratio for pump gas, if you go any higher or want to go higher look into 110 Octane race gas or VP fuel.

110 Octane should get you to 12.5:1, if you go anyhigher you will need a new headgasket everytime you ride because they will get burnt up. If you have too much compression with pump gas you get pre-detenation, really hot head temps and probably blown gaskets.

You should be able to find 110 Octane fuel from a racing facility near you like a drag strip or race track. Or open up the yellow pages and see who sells it and if any gas stations offer it.
 
Strigoi

Strigoi

#18
#18
there's a shop half a block from my work that sells 110 for i think $12 a gallon. i don't really ride enough for the cost to be a huge deal though.



is there any easy way to tell if i have the 18cc or 14cc head? without decking the block, it looks like i'd be at either 10.5 or 12.3 with the head milled.
 
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npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#19
#19
If you have a recent 5.5HP engine it will probably be an 18cc head. I agree the cost of 110 octane is pretty expensive I still havent decided if im going to go that route or the pump gas route, Im told we could see up to 1.5 more HP and tonsss more torque.

Here is my 18cc head thats milled 0.040" or 1mm
 
npatton19

npatton19

New Member
#20
#20
Actually that picture is before its milled. I picked up an old 5.5HP Honda for $50 bucks and pulled the head and flat top piston out of it. I had to trim the skirt of the 160 flat top though because it was pretty long, other than that little problem I got a $60 cylinder head and a $25 piston for $50 bucks in a running engine! Pretty good deal I think, the valve guides were suprisingly in amazing shape too.
 
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