Bonanza wheel dissassembly!!
- Thread starter Midyrman
- Start date
- Tags bonanza dissassembly wheel
Impact driver? I have had success in the past using those.
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/impactdriver.jpg
But the usual - penetrating oil, time, heat etc. should eventually free the fastener. If all else fails you can always drill it.
EDIT: Aww crap sorry I posted too late ^^^ lol minibikin beat me to it
http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/impactdriver.jpg
But the usual - penetrating oil, time, heat etc. should eventually free the fastener. If all else fails you can always drill it.
EDIT: Aww crap sorry I posted too late ^^^ lol minibikin beat me to it
take a narrow cut off wheel cut slot on the head of the fastener.
Be ready with a big single blade screw driver. Push hard and turn counter clockwise.
Some times a quick bang with the hammer on the
One at a time, the heat from cut off wheel slot will help loosen the screw. So be quick cut the slot and go.
Have the big flat blade at ready and crack it loose.
Cut deep and dead center on the screw head, not so deep as to not give the big screw driver a chance to break the head off.
You need a good "bite" a flat head that fits the cut off wheel and be fast
It will work the impact really dosn't seem to work for the thing you are doing. it likes to "ride up and out" the big slot trick will not do that.
Get a really stable area so bolt will not move at all.. a block of wood under the wheel ect A heat inductor is the cats pajamas.
A yellow map torch may also help. You prob have a steel bolt in a aluminum rim that why it is so hard to get out
A easy out and the drill tap method last resort .. Cut slot deep / i.e heat / quick push hard while hot get a good bite screw driver to slot fit / turn on a firm surface / say a few choice words and crack loose
Good luck
Be ready with a big single blade screw driver. Push hard and turn counter clockwise.
Some times a quick bang with the hammer on the
One at a time, the heat from cut off wheel slot will help loosen the screw. So be quick cut the slot and go.
Have the big flat blade at ready and crack it loose.
Cut deep and dead center on the screw head, not so deep as to not give the big screw driver a chance to break the head off.
You need a good "bite" a flat head that fits the cut off wheel and be fast
It will work the impact really dosn't seem to work for the thing you are doing. it likes to "ride up and out" the big slot trick will not do that.
Get a really stable area so bolt will not move at all.. a block of wood under the wheel ect A heat inductor is the cats pajamas.
A yellow map torch may also help. You prob have a steel bolt in a aluminum rim that why it is so hard to get out
A easy out and the drill tap method last resort .. Cut slot deep / i.e heat / quick push hard while hot get a good bite screw driver to slot fit / turn on a firm surface / say a few choice words and crack loose
Good luck
Soaking for weeks with penetrating oil is the way to go if time is on your side. But in this case, I wouldn't even screw with it. Drill it and tap it. The damage you do to the aluminum wheel by cutting slots, repeated heating, or hitting with impact drivers out weighs the fact that you need to tap it anyway.
There is also the welding trick, where you weld on some stock to the screw. The combination of intense heat, and the fact that you can grab the stock with vice grips and turn will get it out. (If you can get to it with a welder)
There is also the welding trick, where you weld on some stock to the screw. The combination of intense heat, and the fact that you can grab the stock with vice grips and turn will get it out. (If you can get to it with a welder)
first thing is to do what you can to make sure the tail end of the bolt where it exits the wheel is as clean as you can get it, I spot blast the inset and clean out the crud on and around the threads (if you do get it to move you don't want to fight the crust/rust thats built up on the tip which which will also tear up the threads in the wheel as you unscrew it). I find penetrating oil and an impact driver to be your best shot at breaking the bolts loose on the Go power and Bonanza 6-8" wheels, You can feel when they twist the head and not the bolt.......its usually the last one of the 6 on the set that does it to you :doah:
good luck
good luck
Since I have plenty of other pieces to work on I started soaking the bolts. I started on the threaded end. I'm using a home made remedy of half a stone and half Transmission fluid with Decton. I'll make sure the threads are clean.
I also have what looks like the original bearings in place. They are stuck. I tried using a large screw driver and hammer coming from the other side through the axle hole but can't get the screw driver to catch an edge. So I am soaking them too. Any suggestions? Figured it might be easier to do once the wheel is separated.
Thanks for all the advice. The 6 inch wheels belong to a MB1210TC. Plan to powdercoat the frame as close to the original orange as I can get. Have the original TC components. Almost finished with the rear shocks. Fronts don't need much. Original seat needs a total redo. Probably end up needing new tires. The H35 is all there.
I also have what looks like the original bearings in place. They are stuck. I tried using a large screw driver and hammer coming from the other side through the axle hole but can't get the screw driver to catch an edge. So I am soaking them too. Any suggestions? Figured it might be easier to do once the wheel is separated.
Thanks for all the advice. The 6 inch wheels belong to a MB1210TC. Plan to powdercoat the frame as close to the original orange as I can get. Have the original TC components. Almost finished with the rear shocks. Fronts don't need much. Original seat needs a total redo. Probably end up needing new tires. The H35 is all there.
wow awesome site, everyone here is cool.
My notes .. my cut and slot method , you can still soak the bolt pb blaster works great.
My method is a last ditch before the drill and tap .
You can use heat to the point before it will affect the wheel the aluminum will expand and your out.
A pencil torch with map just get it a tad more than warm no hot red color.
Never cut the slot into the rim ! just the fastener Do all the above! A really good Snap on or other quality driver bit that fits the slots perfect is huge
(even with the impact driver) The bits that come on most impacts drivers are really crappy
Sears also sells # 2 3/8 drive socket bits that will fit the slots of the screws heads better than a China impact driver fit
The clean head a get fitting good screw driver fit is awesome advice from the dudes here
Just tryin to help Good luck!
My notes .. my cut and slot method , you can still soak the bolt pb blaster works great.
My method is a last ditch before the drill and tap .
You can use heat to the point before it will affect the wheel the aluminum will expand and your out.
A pencil torch with map just get it a tad more than warm no hot red color.
Never cut the slot into the rim ! just the fastener Do all the above! A really good Snap on or other quality driver bit that fits the slots perfect is huge
(even with the impact driver) The bits that come on most impacts drivers are really crappy
Sears also sells # 2 3/8 drive socket bits that will fit the slots of the screws heads better than a China impact driver fit
The clean head a get fitting good screw driver fit is awesome advice from the dudes here
Just tryin to help Good luck!
I have done more than my share of those wheels. soak and my dewalt small 18V impact. Sometimes 1/8 turn at a time. out 1/8 and in 1/8 turn till they free. Had 1 pair that the bolts were froze 100% through the whole wheel. Why the wheels were good shape and the bolts were white powder stuck I dont know. but no way in hell the bolts would come out and couldnt split the wheels to un stick the rest. total drill out. saved the wheels but was pissed as can be. I done mine and others for local guys but this pair were the worst in history, LOL
Tom, If you haven't already drilled them out; let me make a suggestion. Gently heat the bolts and the surrounding area. Then rub a wax candle or sealing wax on and around the bolt head and allow it to penetrate. Once it has cooled; try working the bolt slowly. Take your time. I learned this trick back in the 1950's from an old timer who used to work in the shops where they repaired steam locomotives. And I've seen it done. One other tip. If and when you do get your bolts out; use a product called "anti-seize" on the new threads. It's used to inhibit the chemical reaction when steel bolts are used with aluminum castings. Hope this helps and good luck. Ogy
Thanks Markus. That would be great. I'll pack them up and send them on their way. I've been only soaking them in PB Blaster so there is no billy-bob damage!
Ogy, it's great to hear about old time solutions. Another one is to use 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid (with Decton). There is no smell and easy clean up. Works great.
Ogy, it's great to hear about old time solutions. Another one is to use 50/50 acetone and transmission fluid (with Decton). There is no smell and easy clean up. Works great.
Update- I was ready to mail the wheels to Markus but thought that after soaking in PB-B for a couple of weeks I'd give it a try using an old favorite long handled thick screw driver with a wrench on the handle for some much needed torque. The screw driver fit perfect in the head slots and with the tire on the floor I was able to apply a good bit of "muscle" to the turn. And it worked!!!! Well, almost. I got three out completely and three broke off leaving about 1/3 of the bolt in the wheel. Today, I carefully drilled the three out.
NEXT QUESTION-- The tires are stuck to the rims. The halves are loose but separating the tire edge from the rim "ain't happening".
Any suggestions? I have used the edge of a reasonably sharp screw driver and wedged in between the tire and rim and slid it around the rim to "cut" the "bonding" but even having done that I can't get through to the inside. I want to save the tires if I can,,,,, but if I can't then I can't. They are obviously old with some cracks.
What can I do to separate the tire from the rim?
THANKS!!!!!
Tom
NEXT QUESTION-- The tires are stuck to the rims. The halves are loose but separating the tire edge from the rim "ain't happening".
Any suggestions? I have used the edge of a reasonably sharp screw driver and wedged in between the tire and rim and slid it around the rim to "cut" the "bonding" but even having done that I can't get through to the inside. I want to save the tires if I can,,,,, but if I can't then I can't. They are obviously old with some cracks.
What can I do to separate the tire from the rim?
THANKS!!!!!
Tom
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