I give strict instructions to all my riders (especially new ones) never to touch the front brake...for just such reason. The front requires a bit of experience and finesse. Glad he's OK. I'd also advise NOT jumping any Arctic Cat bike, as the frame will break, guaranteed. Trust me, I've broken two myself.
That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
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That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
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I give strict instructions to all my riders (especially new ones) never to touch the front brake...for just such reason. The front requires a bit of experience and finesse. Glad he's OK. I'd also advise NOT jumping any Arctic Cat bike, as the frame will break, guaranteed. Trust me, I've broken two myself.
That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
Home
That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
Home
Until Jeff M finishes my new cables a half baked front brake is all I got. It worked pretty good until the kids spent a day making an "autocross" circuit for time around the yard. I might move the front to the left handlebar until they come. I also have some better shoes to install.
Brake cables are on the way. Rear fender was suppose to ship out today but I didn't get confirmation.
Bought a really rusted complete rear swing arm on eBay and managed to salvage a bushings, a sprocket, a spacer, this little flange thing and half a wheel.
You might remember I broke half a wheel but had an extra the seller threw in. Well now I have another complete wheel. Or, that is, I did until I got a phone call from the seller...
Funny story. The good news - the seller found the gas tank. The bad news - that extra wheel wasn't actually his. His son has a Arctic Cat Mini Bike in pieces and that was actually the son's wheel/tire.
He offered to buy it back but I told him I'd trade him for the gas tank. I also told him the wheel is in much better condition than the day I bought it...
While I had him on the phone he told me a few stories about the bike I bought.
He was the original owner. At some point his boys broke the frame where the the yolk is (where the triple tree bolts in) and he had it booger welded but it never held. A few years after Arctic Cat stopped making Mini Bikes he said a couple of genuine Arctic Cat surplus frames showed up at Mac's hardware in Detroit Lakes, MN where he lives and where I bought the bike from him. I believe that's why it's a Climber Frame.
Not sure what model it originally was but I'm hoping the gas tank will shed some light. The front fork, seat and rear swing arm are original, the frame is probably a Climber but there is no ID tag.
He said it was never a Saxonette (sp?) and that it had a Tech H5 and the engine plate on the original frame as well.
So, I'm thinking it was a 70 SSSCat II that got an early 71 Climber Frame as a NOS item along the way.
Anyway, when I pick up that gas tank I'll ask more questions.
Bought a really rusted complete rear swing arm on eBay and managed to salvage a bushings, a sprocket, a spacer, this little flange thing and half a wheel.
You might remember I broke half a wheel but had an extra the seller threw in. Well now I have another complete wheel. Or, that is, I did until I got a phone call from the seller...
Funny story. The good news - the seller found the gas tank. The bad news - that extra wheel wasn't actually his. His son has a Arctic Cat Mini Bike in pieces and that was actually the son's wheel/tire.
He offered to buy it back but I told him I'd trade him for the gas tank. I also told him the wheel is in much better condition than the day I bought it...
While I had him on the phone he told me a few stories about the bike I bought.
He was the original owner. At some point his boys broke the frame where the the yolk is (where the triple tree bolts in) and he had it booger welded but it never held. A few years after Arctic Cat stopped making Mini Bikes he said a couple of genuine Arctic Cat surplus frames showed up at Mac's hardware in Detroit Lakes, MN where he lives and where I bought the bike from him. I believe that's why it's a Climber Frame.
Not sure what model it originally was but I'm hoping the gas tank will shed some light. The front fork, seat and rear swing arm are original, the frame is probably a Climber but there is no ID tag.
He said it was never a Saxonette (sp?) and that it had a Tech H5 and the engine plate on the original frame as well.
So, I'm thinking it was a 70 SSSCat II that got an early 71 Climber Frame as a NOS item along the way.
Anyway, when I pick up that gas tank I'll ask more questions.
I give strict instructions to all my riders (especially new ones) never to touch the front brake...for just such reason. The front requires a bit of experience and finesse. Glad he's OK. I'd also advise NOT jumping any Arctic Cat bike, as the frame will break, guaranteed. Trust me, I've broken two myself.
That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
Home
That being said, I might post my wheelie riding videos one of these days, proving the power of the mighty 47cc Saxonette. Do as I say, not as I do.
Home
If the original owner replaced the frame, then it was originally a SSSCAT-II. The front forks give it away, as that was the only model with that style headlight mount. Expect to get an ssscat tank in the mail.
ArcticMinibike - Home
ArcticMinibike - Home
I'll try to get it uploaded asap. I took a few takes. My son was not the best camera man and did an unnecessarily close zoom on my best one. I'll have to do some editing.
As we Arctic owners all know, the frames break up by the head tube. The Saxonette rear mounts all crack as well. Wheelies are probably not the smartest thing to do with one, but they sure are fun. I also used to jump the bike when I was 14...now at 48 and 240lbs, I think I'll refrain from that. [emoji1]
ArcticMinibike - Home
As we Arctic owners all know, the frames break up by the head tube. The Saxonette rear mounts all crack as well. Wheelies are probably not the smartest thing to do with one, but they sure are fun. I also used to jump the bike when I was 14...now at 48 and 240lbs, I think I'll refrain from that. [emoji1]
ArcticMinibike - Home
That is a one-piece lock washer that was used on some, but not all models. It just goes under the 3 sprocket bolts instead of individual washers. I never understood its function and why they didn't just use regular lock washers. I'll have to check my drawings to verify that they didn't use a combination of both. If you don't need it, I would buy it from you. I think I am short one.
ArcticMinibike - Home
ArcticMinibike - Home
Ha! That was pretty cool!
Coming from the snowmobile world I have always thought of two strokes as more powerful and higher revving...a 800cc liquid two stroke has more power than an 1100 NA four stroke. So it doesn't surprise me that thing can pop wheelies.
I think I am going to use it. That new sprocket spacer that came in that package bolts right into the wheel instead of the other one I have which has a smaller diameter bolt pattern in the spacer/hub. I think it will provide less twisting force on the sprocket keeping it from warping sooner. Plus it will cover up the 5 bolt hole pattern that the new sprocket came with.
On another note: I am unimpressed with the new old stock brakes I received. I mounted the front one and the drum is so warped that the wheel will spin 3/4 turn and then lock up. One area of the drum shoe has aluminum right up to the pad surface (it looks like it was ground down on the other set I got in the same area). I used the new backer plate but put the old drum and shoes back in just to be able to get the wheel to spin.
On another, another note: I am very impressed with Jeff Mihalko's brake cables. I mounted the front one and it fits like a glove. I didn't notice the brass drum being any shorter than the height of my brake levers so I didn't have to press them together at all to fit perfect. These new ball end brake levers with the adjusters are bad a$$. I mounted the rear brake cable but have not connected it to the brake because I still need to do some work with the sprocket.
No new pictures...It was late and I forgot to bring my cell into the garage. Wait - since this is off topic - here are the winners of this week's golf scramble at my work. Note the Closest to Pin (CTP) and Longest Putt (LP) winners... :001_tt2:
Here's a question; After wire wheeling the rust off the front forks, kickstand, etc. How do you keep it from coming back? I don't want to shoot it with clear because it dulls the shine. Other ideas?
Coming from the snowmobile world I have always thought of two strokes as more powerful and higher revving...a 800cc liquid two stroke has more power than an 1100 NA four stroke. So it doesn't surprise me that thing can pop wheelies.
I think I am going to use it. That new sprocket spacer that came in that package bolts right into the wheel instead of the other one I have which has a smaller diameter bolt pattern in the spacer/hub. I think it will provide less twisting force on the sprocket keeping it from warping sooner. Plus it will cover up the 5 bolt hole pattern that the new sprocket came with.
On another note: I am unimpressed with the new old stock brakes I received. I mounted the front one and the drum is so warped that the wheel will spin 3/4 turn and then lock up. One area of the drum shoe has aluminum right up to the pad surface (it looks like it was ground down on the other set I got in the same area). I used the new backer plate but put the old drum and shoes back in just to be able to get the wheel to spin.
On another, another note: I am very impressed with Jeff Mihalko's brake cables. I mounted the front one and it fits like a glove. I didn't notice the brass drum being any shorter than the height of my brake levers so I didn't have to press them together at all to fit perfect. These new ball end brake levers with the adjusters are bad a$$. I mounted the rear brake cable but have not connected it to the brake because I still need to do some work with the sprocket.
No new pictures...It was late and I forgot to bring my cell into the garage. Wait - since this is off topic - here are the winners of this week's golf scramble at my work. Note the Closest to Pin (CTP) and Longest Putt (LP) winners... :001_tt2:
Here's a question; After wire wheeling the rust off the front forks, kickstand, etc. How do you keep it from coming back? I don't want to shoot it with clear because it dulls the shine. Other ideas?
Well, wire wheeling might not have been the best choice. The forks were chrome, the kickstand was zinc plated. Both are probably pretty damaged now. The kickstand was never shiny. Used to be that you could get a NOS kickstand cheaper than re-plating. I don't see any out there now. I might have one. Best thing is to just price out getting it plated. As for the forks, take a deep breath and get a quote on re-chrome. It will be a painful number. You can try and buff them with a sturdy cloth wheel and a progression of buffing compounds. Then just keep them clean. Maybe wipe it with an oiled rag once in a while and a little #0000 steel wool if you see a spot forming. Most metal polishes provide a bit of a thin film of protection. That would be your best bet short of new chrome.
That larger sprocket spacer was designed for large sprockets like on the Climber. It's your best choice. The small one you mentioned was for the small sprockets used on Saxonette models. I'll double check on the one piece thin washer plate. I think it was only on the small sprockets. I could be wrong.
ArcticMinibike - Home
That larger sprocket spacer was designed for large sprockets like on the Climber. It's your best choice. The small one you mentioned was for the small sprockets used on Saxonette models. I'll double check on the one piece thin washer plate. I think it was only on the small sprockets. I could be wrong.
ArcticMinibike - Home
Interesting about the brass cable ends. He may have found longer ones. They should be long enough to be flush with the outside surfaces of the levers. Any less and they will twist and not seat properly.
ArcticMinibike - Home
ArcticMinibike - Home
Sounds like you got a bad brake assembly. You might be able to true up the drum with a vice or a few strategic taps with a hammer, but you might make it worse. Try putting on your old drum. They glaze up easily so if stopping ability is poor with the old drum, scuff it up with some 60-100 grit paper. I try to do sort of a cross hatch pattern if possible. If the shoe pad looks hindered by the aluminum, see if you can file it to remove the problem area. If you got it from a reliable source, see if they will exchange it. I have a bunch of NOS if you can't get it resolved. The sad thing is that these brakes never worked well.
ArcticMinibike - Home
ArcticMinibike - Home
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The forks actually are holding up the best. I only wire wheeled the heavy rust on the upper and the cups. The lowers I polished with this impregnated aluminum polish that comes in a metal tin - can't remember the name, I think it starts with a Z or Zy-something. Because I put a thin layer of white lithium grease on the uppers they seem to be OK too. The handlebars I mostly polished with the same stuff but there was some pitting I wire wheeled. This polish is almost like thick insulation with an oil in it. It's weird stuff. The kickstand was so rusted there is no way there was any zinc coating left on it. That is the piece that I see rust coming back the most. However, I could clear coat that no problem to try keep it at bay. Anyway, long story short - some kind of wax or polish will help?
Yes, wax or polish should help. I used to use carnauba wax on my table saw to prevent rust on the cast iron top. It's tough stuff and lasts longer. Zinc plating the kickstand is fairly cheap and that part is small. I paid about $85 to have a set of handlebars rechromed. I never priced it but I suspect plating the forks would be about $85 each tube. Plating prices seem to vary across the country. You might find something cheaper.
ArcticMinibike - Home
ArcticMinibike - Home
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Well, since the rest of it is patina I probably will just leave it as is and see what I can do to keep it at bay.
Funny thing is...even the new stuff seems to rust the moment you bolt it on the bike. My clutch cover from OldMiniBikes (non-chrome model) is already turning a shad of burnt orange and the first thing I did was degrease, dry and clear coat that. :doah:
Funny thing is...even the new stuff seems to rust the moment you bolt it on the bike. My clutch cover from OldMiniBikes (non-chrome model) is already turning a shad of burnt orange and the first thing I did was degrease, dry and clear coat that. :doah:
