Bought a cat

#21
I knew a dealer from the early 70's who told me they tried various sprocket combinations back in the day to improve top end speed while maintaining low speed power. In every instance, they found the factory combination was best.

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Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#22
I believe there are (3) additional holes in the wheels(not the 5 on the splines for mounting the wheels together) specifically for the sprocket mounting. I will look when I get home.
 
#23
You guys are both right. However I must not have the right brake on the back of mine or perhaps the sprocket is designed with an offset so the brake drum fits inside of it. Here is what mine looks like.

Brake Set Up.jpg sprocket set up.jpg

I am keeping it as stock as possible but I do have a budget. I am going to go with an 11 tooth clutch and a 72 tooth sprocket. The warlord approved $500. The frame with a few spare parts was $125, That Honda was $75. So far my list of parts through my contact, OldMiniBikes and eBay is over $300 and that doesn't include a primary clutch, secondary clutch, jackshaft, bearing retainers, bearings, and sprockets... There's no way I could fit that in as cool as it would be to have that set up. Plus, the crank shaft is 5/8" so finding a primary with that diameter was not easy when I was looking. Also, as much as I wanted to get the Rupp Trails I had to settle for the Cheng Shen Trails...

Anyway, I have many parts on order. Should be running in the next couple of weeks.
 

Ding Ding

Well-Known Member
#24
Yes the brake fits inside the I.D. of the sprocket.



Do you need anymore help? It sounds like you are moving a different direction already.....?
 
#25
Well, like I said due to funding I am going to skip the jackshaft for now. I ordered a bunch of parts this afternoon to get it rideable and go from there.

The drum brake nested inside of a sprocket with a drum brake makes sense to me know. I wonder how many of those original gears are floating around?
 
#26
You guys are both right. However I must not have the right brake on the back of mine or perhaps the sprocket is designed with an offset so the brake drum fits inside of it. Here is what mine looks like.

View attachment 75055 View attachment 75056

I am keeping it as stock as possible but I do have a budget. I am going to go with an 11 tooth clutch and a 72 tooth sprocket. The warlord approved $500. The frame with a few spare parts was $125, That Honda was $75. So far my list of parts through my contact, OldMiniBikes and eBay is over $300 and that doesn't include a primary clutch, secondary clutch, jackshaft, bearing retainers, bearings, and sprockets... There's no way I could fit that in as cool as it would be to have that set up. Plus, the crank shaft is 5/8" so finding a primary with that diameter was not easy when I was looking. Also, as much as I wanted to get the Rupp Trails I had to settle for the Cheng Shen Trails...

Anyway, I have many parts on order. Should be running in the next couple of weeks.
Your rear wheel setup is for a Saxonette powered SSSCAT-I.

I might have a jackshaft and retainer brackets if you ever decide to go that route. I think it has a small sprocket or two on it and some used bearings.

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#27
I believe there are (3) additional holes in the wheels(not the 5 on the splines for mounting the wheels together) specifically for the sprocket mounting. I will look when I get home.
The wheels normally have 6 nubs in the ribs but only 3 are drilled and tapped. Plus 3 holes for bolting the halves. I'll be curious to know on the SSSCAT-II if there are additional holes.

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#28
Two of my wheels have 6 threaded holes on both sides plus the three for mounting. The other wheel has 6 threaded holes on one side and the other side is 6 blanks. So you think this was a SSSCat 1?

I'd post pics bet I can't get back to the mobile site on my phone since I switched to desktop...
 
#29
Oh, and from everything I've seen online about AC mini bikes to me it looks like a Climber that someone put a 1970 seat on. But I'm a noob so what would I know.

I do know however that I am super excited to get this thing on the road!
 
#30
It's a 71 Climber frame, note the foot peg mounting (different from ssscat). It's early 71 because it has the old style tank mounts that resulted in fires (failure of the tank). It has a SSSCAT-II front fork, note the integrated headlight mount. SSSCAT seat, and SSSCAT-I or Whisker rear sprocket. You just have to decide what it's going to be when it grows up. You can mount an ssscat tank or old style 71 tank, the latter of which can be tough to find in good shape as they were recalled and many destroyed.

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#32
Looking good. Nice setup for building a comfortable rider. I recommend picking up some new front springs. You can usually find them for $15 on eBay. They are for Ruttman bikes but close enough for Arctic restorations. Fraction of the cost of re-chrome and make a huge difference in appearance.

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#34
From an earlier post...

Oh yea, the only thing I goofed on was trying to take apart the two piece wheels without deflating the tire. Good thing the old timer I bought it from gave me an extra!

View attachment 74766
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Looking good. Nice setup for building a comfortable rider. I recommend picking up some new front springs. You can usually find them for $15 on eBay. They are for Ruttman bikes but close enough for Arctic restorations. Fraction of the cost of re-chrome and make a huge difference in appearance.

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Already order those exact front springs off eBay. Same guy had NOS Cherry brake lever, twist throttle and some nice folding foot pegs.
 
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#35
Hope the cherry throttle works for you, not the original throttle but since you're using the Honda, it should be OK. If you have issues with the peg quality and fitting, let me know. I have some high quality Arctic pegs.

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#36
Hope the cherry throttle works for you, not the original throttle but since you're using the Honda, it should be OK. If you have issues with the peg quality and fitting, let me know. I have some high quality Arctic pegs.

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I have the original throttle. I gently cut the rotted out grip off of it. It just needs a new grip. However, the end of the cable that sits in the housing has a funny "peg" on the end with the top flattened into a square and kind of rolled over and I wasn't sure I could find a cable that worked. I ordered an extra throttle cable to try it out and if I can make it work I may just pick up a new grip for that side.

Some more pics:


Cleaned up the wheels



Worked a little on my sewing skills...




Plastidip! If I don't like it I can just peel it off.



Before and After



A little garage art
 
#37
This is the throttle and brake lever I found...



Pegs - sticker says Made in Japan. Kinda look like the climber pegs.



The kids are probably going to abuse this thing so I am not trying to get too invested in "period correct" but I don't want it to look chintzy either.
 
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#38
The pegs are a close match to original, other than originals have rubber covering the entire ends. Unique to Arctic. Just discard the holders. The throttle will get you by. You'll need "full sized" brake levers with adjusters. You'll probably be stuck having to buy the knock offs, but that's OK. They have a pointed flange on the lever tree, real Cherry levers have a straight flange.

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#39
The pegs are a close match to original, other than originals have rubber covering the entire ends. Unique to Arctic. Just discard the holders. The throttle will get you by. You'll need "full sized" brake levers with adjusters. You'll probably be stuck having to buy the knock offs, but that's OK. They have a pointed flange on the lever tree, real Cherry levers have a straight flange.

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I see what you mean about the pointed flange. We'll give it a try anyway. The original brake lever didn't have adjusters. Just the bottom of the brake cable had a threaded rod and round nut.

A little mock up of "Roadkill". The kids wanted to name it and since we are going with $1000 parts on a $100 vehicle they thought Roadkill fit, if you've ever watched their Youtube videos you would understand.



This junk is mint!
 
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