Break in time.....

hemigremmy

hemigremmy

New Member
#1
#1
Worked late last night and got my new Predator motor installed on the mini, started it up at at this morning for the 3 hour break in......that is like an eternity when you can't wait to take it for the maiden voyage.
Only 20 more minutes to go, while it was sitting there idling i gassed it once and it already seems like it has a TON more power then my old wore out 5hp briggs.
Tick, tick, tick, tick, tick ........

Before....

After.....


Kinda tight in there BUT it fit....



 
Last edited:
pomfish

pomfish

Well-Known Member
#7
#7
They say don't run a full load for extended periods during the first 3 hours, no where do I see the directions say "Idle engine for 3 Hours"

Most builders will run the engine at different rpms for a short period of time and then run it as normal without beating on it.

Me, I start it, set the idle and ride the bike.
I will not unhook the Gov. until it is broken in, if at all.
I never blew up a clone, never had any problems whatsoever.
Your mileage may vary.
Thanks,
Keith
 
hemigremmy

hemigremmy

New Member
#9
#9
Took it for a ride this after noon, it has a ton more power on the bottom end and it pulls hard. My driveway has a little hill when you come up it and if you roll into the throttle very much it will carry the front wheel and i feel sure if you stayed into it the mini would walk right out from under me and i weigh 250lbs.
 
jeep2003

jeep2003

#11
#11
theres lots of opinions on how to break in an engine. personally i think the beat the snot out of it approach is the way to go. it ought to get real hot and then run it hard so the rings can get seated. if you baby it for too long iv read theres a possibility of it never seating properly. But hell if i know. i dont think iv ever done a proper rering job on a small engine. Just hone the walls throw some old rings in that look ok and run it. if it dont smoke you won :thumbsup: :laugh:
 
T

tjs011

New Member
#12
#12
what is the overall feeling on modding a new engine before it's ever run? i'm talking the simple stage 1 type mods (carb jetting, e-tube, air filter, exhaust, valve springs, flywheel, remove gov)

my plan was to do it all while it was new so i could work on it in the house instead of in the 105deg heat!
 
C

Curly

New Member
#15
#15
What they don't want, is for you to jump on the throttle and hold it wide open for a long stretch before some running time. :thumbsup:
 
mmisterbungl

mmisterbungl

New Member
#16
#16
tjs011 said:
what is the overall feeling on modding a new engine before it's ever run? i'm talking the simple stage 1 type mods (carb jetting, e-tube, air filter, exhaust, valve springs, flywheel, remove gov)

my plan was to do it all while it was new so i could work on it in the house instead of in the 105deg heat!
Click to expand...
Best time to do your mods, fresh engine.... go for it.
 
Oldschool

Oldschool

New Member
#17
#17
Things are confused by modern oils and engine modifications.

You need to consider the machining ( Chinese not as tight as a modern car or bike ).
So it will shed a lot of metal in a hurry so Change oil often.
First run should be a warm up lap under light load and avoid idle.
SAy 2000 rpm for 10 minuts under load ( short trip around the block ).

At this point the engine should be warm and this first heat cycle should have more or less broken in the engine ( after this th ebulk of the big stuff that will be in the oil and it should run a little cooler as a result of less friction, this does ntp mean your done breaking in but most of the serious wearing will be over if break in is done correctly )
).
Drain oil and check for anything loose or leaking.....

Second run again modest load and keep the rpm down.
Keep it short the idea is warm up the engine and scrape off some of the rough spots inside ( how much material a motor will shed depends a lot on the machining and if you built the engine or the Chinese did ).
Ring loading is more important with thin 1mm rings because these have less time to seat than thicker ones ( This aplies to the UT1 type pistons ).

Again drain your oil and examine after the run ( how long to go? Not sure depends on a lot of things ).
You will probably still see some metal in the oil this is normal with an engine that has no filter.

Third run your probably done at this point with most of the break in wear and metal shed.
When to change this oil?
Probably best to keep this change done under 20 hours.
I would not leave any oil in for more than 20 hours run time anyway but some people think its not a problem to go 50 or even 100 hours.

Oil to use:
Tough call.

If you have the time to buy a cam for it and use racing parts then odds are a break in lube is also in your budget.
GM En gine Oil Supliment PN 88862586 will provide plenty of early wear protection for break in used as recomended. There are also plenty of good break in oils from other makers.

Running oils are something to consider too.
These engines with souped up cams and springs are going to put more demands on oil.
PLenty of good Kart oils out there.
Viscosity is also a question mark.
I like thicker oils intended to air cooled bikes and I used to be a big fan of Rotela T and Delvac before the additive packages in them went to hell.....
 
M

MiniBike Paul

Well-Known Member
#18
#18
Can you say "overkill"!!

Max 20 minutes with varying engine rpm, then some modest idle to 3/4 throttle pulls riding, get it pretty hot, then cool down, change the oil, first rides after that push hard but save a little, then let it rip!! With all due respect to all parties, 3 hours is nuts!!

Doesn't matter what GOOD oil, synthetic is the best, but change it pretty often!

Best time to install aftermarket parts is when everything is brand new!!
 
Last edited:
badtec

badtec

Banned
#19
#19
That's all I'm sayin'. 3hrs. is long run-time. It'll sit more than it will be ran. Not good....especially with gnarly, break-in oil in it. Hey, some of us are more picky than the next.
 
Oldschool

Oldschool

New Member
#20
#20
3 oil changes in the first hour with my break in.

Leaves nothing to chance.

Important to look for trouble like over heating noises and leaks.

If this is a new engine out of the box I might be inclined to open it up and check to see the rod is torqued correctly and vlave lash is set coil is tight ect ect.

The engine must be clean inside.
Most of the wear and scuffing inside the engine will happen in the 1st 3 hours.
Thats why its so important to see that everything is clean and tight.
Changing the oil as I sugest will remove anything floating around in there you missed on inspection before you close.

GM EOS has a lot of good stuff in it that helps ensure parts break in correctly.

Breaking in realy means all the parts inside are wearing together. Some are polishing themselves, some are lapping againts parts to dull up the surface and make things mate correctly.

Break in is wear at a high rate of speed....

I personaly strip and inspect evey part of a clone before start up.
I pay special attention to places like the center of the wrist pin where often you will find abrasives from the grinding process.

Cylinders are never as clean as they could be and sometimes are even rusty on a clone.
Valves might not be set right.
journals can often use a polish.

All kinds of things effect break in and how long it takes as well as how much un needed wear may occure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top