Briggs 5hp output shaft question

#1
I have an old briggs 5hp engine off a trash pump that I'm trying to find a centrifugal clutch for. The output shaft is 5/8" diameter but it has a male thread on the end. Most of the clutches I have found describe a female tapped thread on end of the shaft. My question is, can I use a standard clutch for a 5/8" shaft and use a nut and washer to hold it on instead of the bolt and washer as described in the instructions. I realize that the clutch is only around $35 but I'd hate to buy one if it isn't going to work.

Thanks in advance!
 
#3
I was hoping this mini-bike project was going to be easy! I have an older briggs engine with the 3/4" keyed shaft that's not running, I guess I could always swap the cranks, but it might be easier to get the older one running, it doesn't have any spark....

Thanks for the info!
 
#5
Yep, that's my current plan. I think I can handle that..... Should be easier than changing the cranks out! I haven't worked on these small engines much and I'm a little nervous about major repairs. The motor with the 3/4" shaft looks to be well used, I took the head off and cleaned a ton of crud off the top of the valves and piston and finally got it to make some decent compression. At least I think 65psi is decent??
 
#6
65 sounds okay to me. Changing points is really pretty easy. I've done it on three very old briggs motors that did not run at first, and every one has worked great afterward. The condensors are what fails, usually the points are still okay. But I change the whole mess since you are in there and the parts are stupid cheap.

Pull the recoil starter/blower housing off first. Getting the flywheel attaching nut off next - is the toughest part. If its an old briggs and uses the old style ball bearing starter - I've found that a large pipe wrench and a big screw driver set across the cooling fins on the flywheel to stop it turning works fine, be gentle. Just be careful not to bust the flywheel cooling fins. Give the flywheel a sharp tap on the backside and it should pop off. Point gap is to be set at .020" on most of them. Take your time setting the gap and make sure its right, check check and double check once tightened down, the gap will change a little when you tighten the condensor down. You might want to clean rust off the flywheel magnet and the coil areas where they pass each other. A little fine steel wool works nice, remove any bits of steel wool after you are done.

Bet it runs like a top when you get it back together.
 
#7
Back to the 5/8 shaft, How lng is it and is it keyed? Is it long enough for a clutch with room for the nut? If so that would work great, if not you can drill and tap the shaft easy. use a fine thread and bolt on a guide for center. The shafts are soft and easy to drill and tap using lube and a hand drill. I've done it several times, make sure to disconnect the spark plug while d- and tapping. :001_tongue:
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#8
Back to the 5/8 shaft, How lng is it and is it keyed? Is it long enough for a clutch with room for the nut? If so that would work great, if not you can drill and tap the shaft easy. use a fine thread and bolt on a guide for center. The shafts are soft and easy to drill and tap using lube and a hand drill. I've done it several times, make sure to disconnect the spark plug while d- and tapping. :001_tongue:
If the crank is anything like the threaded 3hp briggs crank I had the crank doesnt have a key way so there is no way to lock the clutch in place without fear of it slipping on the crank...

I'd suggest a magneto coil and scrap the points, you'll get better spark and a more reliable ignition... just bolt the coil on (gap it of course) and your done..
 
#9
The shaft is about 2-3/4" long, no taper and no key. There is a shoulder at the back side of the shaft so I guess the clutch could be "squeezed" in between the shoulder and a nut on the end. I'm not sure how long the clutch will be, is there a standard length or do the vary? I never thought about drilling and tapping the end of the shaft, but out of curiosity, why disconnect the plug?

I did finally get a chance to go back out to the garage last night and work on the other motor. I cleaned the points with some sandpaper and finally get spark, now all I need to do is put the carb back together and maybe I can have two running motors.
 
#10
125cc, is the magneto coil a direct bolt in part? And, where would it go, under the flywheel in place of the points or somewhere else?

You'll have to forgive me, I'm new to this whole small engine repair thing. Growing up if something quit running it usually got parked in a corner in the barn and forgotton! I sure do wish I had some of the things we junked in the past...
 

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#11
125cc, is the magneto coil a direct bolt in part? And, where would it go, under the flywheel in place of the points or somewhere else?

You'll have to forgive me, I'm new to this whole small engine repair thing. Growing up if something quit running it usually got parked in a corner in the barn and forgotton! I sure do wish I had some of the things we junked in the past...
You just disconnect the points, actually best to pull the flywheel, remove the points, plug the little hole in the block where the accuator pin is with silicone and then put the flywheel back on, bolt the new coil in place of the old one, set the gap..

You can get a coil off ebay pretty cheap...

as far as using that crank you'll have to have a key slot :hack: in it at a machine shop, for the expense of that I'd just get a different crank..

I hear ya on the parts from the past, when I was a kid I had an attic full of stuff plus all the bikes and parts that friends had, sure wish I had it all now...
 
Top