Bully Clutch

#5
Still waiting on you to tell me.
When I grow up I wanna be mmisterbungl....lol

With the exception of the normal airfilter, pipe, emulsion tube, .036-.037 drilled jet
They are stock, still governed. The clutch would need to be set very low, maybe 2000-2200rpm??

I do plan on building something soon.
Billet Flywheel, Rod, Flat top piston, cam, etc...
 
#8
Based on the fact that your engine is only going to top out around 4k, I'm not sure.
Ooc, why do you want to go with a stall clutch on a stock governed engine?
 
#9
Still waiting on you to tell me.
When I grow up I wanna be mmisterbungl....lol

With the exception of the normal airfilter, pipe, emulsion tube, .036-.037 drilled jet
They are stock, still governed. The clutch would need to be set very low, maybe 2000-2200rpm??

I do plan on building something soon.
Billet Flywheel, Rod, Flat top piston, cam, etc...
you are correct,you could go as high as 3000 but only if you planned on riding it fast all the time. my 6.5 is set at 2400 and works well for just a rider.
 
#10
texasfabguy: my 6.5 is set at 2400 and works well for just a rider.

Are you running a disc type clutch?

mmisterbungl: Based on the fact that your engine is only going to top out around 4k, I'm not sure.
Why do you want to go with a stall clutch on a stock governed engine?

Probably not going to stay governed for long but mostly I was hoping the maintenance will be less and hoping for a smoother more positive engagement.
 
#11
no it's a shoe type,I do have a Tomar disc on my gx390 it's at 3700 but that motor is un-governed. I did slap it on the 6.5 bike just to try it out and it worked pretty good just to tall of a gear for it (17t).
try it,then de-tune it until it works they way you want.
 
#12
disc clutches aren't really designed for regular riding. they're meant to lock up and stay that way.

you'd be better off with a regular clutch instead of wasting money on a disc one.
 
#15
You guys are peeing in my wheaties, LOL

The current shoe clutches I'm running shake bad trying to engage which is the reason for trying the disc clutch.

I guess I will learn my lesson the hard way... :doah:
 
#16
You'll really like the Bully, don't get me wrong, but when I say maintenance will be more I mean that if you're going to be riding around the neighborhood on a stock engine, you obviously will not be locking the clutch up a whole lot as you would in drag racing. It's my understanding that when under half/quarter/three quarters throttle (not balls to the wall) thos friction discs will be slipping more against each other and if you think of it in the terms of a brake shoe on your car - think about what would happen if you rode your brakes the entire time you're driving....
Try to look up the schematic design of one of these clutches (if you haven't already) and you'll see all the parts that go into them. Just stock up on rebuild kits and you'll be good:thumbsup:

http://www.out2win.com/catalog/bully_clutch.html

 
#18
Looks like I can get brass weights that will engage the clutch at as low as 1500 rpm...
With the black springs.

I measured the springs in the clutch they seem to be .090 reds.
 
#19
Got the brass weights with the black springs set at .275 was too low so I went to .250 seems to be better.
Engagement is way better/smoother more positive.
Now I just have to see how long it lasts.
 

minidragbike

Supporting Speed Nut!
#20
If the motor is stock or close to stock it's best to use a stock max torque. The race clutches are made for higher HP motors, and racing.
 
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