Joe, That old car was raced/drove hard and at that age I didn't know about seam welding the floor pan or the frame rails. And didn't have anything to do it with except a stick welder. It had a few stress related issues when I sold it. Hell I would change the gear in the rear and take all the camber out of the front end and drive it on a road trip in a heart beat. It went to Tulsa, OK in 1976, 1250 miles and then a couple of years later in 1979 it went to Indianapolis, In. to the Car Craft Street Machine Nationals. Did burnouts and dry hops while in Indy never considering the distance I was from home. Young and dumb... I would drive it on the street with 3 degrees of negative camber and flat eat up a clover leaf with it... Fun times... It had a second gear that would flat plant you in the seat. That was the thing most commented on when someone rode in it. My mother called it my first wife..... I guess that was true because I sold it when I got married. BUT.... I currently have a 64 and a 65 hardtop Falcon in the shop plus a one owner 65 4dr Falcon Futura. My wife's twin brother did all the paint and body work on the car back in the day. Cant get him to paint something with a rattle can these days..... Sadly he was very very good at what he did too.
Doug
Doug
Thank you sir but could you translate that to English for dummies.......
charging circuit Y/N, aux Y/N, lights F/R. I. E., A flywheel/coil :shrug:
It only has 2 wires..... This is not my strong suite yet. Its an HM 80 / HM100 application.
The guy said that he thought he had more 3 magnet flywheels but wasn't sure if he had another 5 magnet.
Thanks,
Doug
charging circuit Y/N, aux Y/N, lights F/R. I. E., A flywheel/coil :shrug:
It only has 2 wires..... This is not my strong suite yet. Its an HM 80 / HM100 application.
The guy said that he thought he had more 3 magnet flywheels but wasn't sure if he had another 5 magnet.
Thanks,
Doug
Doug, I did some digging around.
It looks like you have PN 611104 Alternator, which plugs in to 611175 Regulator/Rectifier. The red wire should be 13 volts DC at 3600 RPM with a capacity of 3 amps. It has a diode. The yellow wire should be 13 volts AC at 3600 RPM with a capacity of 5 amps.
I am not sure how "that" regulator/rectifier is hooked into the rest of the system.
Later on in the book, different values are given. There is a lot to be desired in some of the Tecumseh manuals. If you were to strip back the wiring loom, (I wouldn't) you'd see that diode, but you may be able to feel it as a lump. It will be on the DC side always on every version, since it is what "cuts off" the negative side of the voltage. (remembering of course that all Tecumseh charging and light systems are AC)
This is the on line publication I looked at. Hopefully it will help.
https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/tecumseh/Tecumseh_quick_reference.pdf
It looks like you have PN 611104 Alternator, which plugs in to 611175 Regulator/Rectifier. The red wire should be 13 volts DC at 3600 RPM with a capacity of 3 amps. It has a diode. The yellow wire should be 13 volts AC at 3600 RPM with a capacity of 5 amps.
I am not sure how "that" regulator/rectifier is hooked into the rest of the system.
Later on in the book, different values are given. There is a lot to be desired in some of the Tecumseh manuals. If you were to strip back the wiring loom, (I wouldn't) you'd see that diode, but you may be able to feel it as a lump. It will be on the DC side always on every version, since it is what "cuts off" the negative side of the voltage. (remembering of course that all Tecumseh charging and light systems are AC)
This is the on line publication I looked at. Hopefully it will help.
https://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/tecumseh/Tecumseh_quick_reference.pdf
Uhm...no! Does not quite work that way. And if the flywheel was banged hard enough to break a fin, what other damage was done that cannot be seen? Each rough edge of the crack is a stress riser now. That is where it will start to come apart at speed...and I doubt that FOMOGO can break off exactly the same amount of fin! :doah:
Havasu Dave's referencer is best. My translation is charging circuit YES/NO, Lights Front/Rear, Auxiliary light/lighter/strobe Yes/No. "I.E." is the Latin abbreviation for "as an example." I seem to remember a comment by Dave that references changing the headlamp from 12 to 6v because at low rpm, the voltage output is lower. Similarly, the coil needs more windings for higher or additional current draws (amperage requirement goes up based on demand). Voltage is the pressure to push the current (amperage) needed for the powered items.
Yeah, thanks Pete. FMTT, I only spent a half an hour researching Doug's question. It's all on page 3, before comments about cutting off fins came in to being.
To clarify six volt head lamps- I said that with regard to the tiny charging systems with no battery, no biasing diode, where the maximum voltage is 10. Use 6 volt incandescent bulbs for that, and 12 volt tail lamps for that.
In Doug's case with this engine, it's all 12 volt, all the time. I referenced the part number of the alternator and the reg./rectifier.
By the way Pete, your questionnaire is incomplete. You need to add "Hand Warmer" Y/N. From the various schematics I was researching, they are by far the highest loads.
Good job on describing voltage as "electrical pressure." Amperage is what happens when you turn on the tap and it flows.
To clarify six volt head lamps- I said that with regard to the tiny charging systems with no battery, no biasing diode, where the maximum voltage is 10. Use 6 volt incandescent bulbs for that, and 12 volt tail lamps for that.
In Doug's case with this engine, it's all 12 volt, all the time. I referenced the part number of the alternator and the reg./rectifier.
By the way Pete, your questionnaire is incomplete. You need to add "Hand Warmer" Y/N. From the various schematics I was researching, they are by far the highest loads.
Good job on describing voltage as "electrical pressure." Amperage is what happens when you turn on the tap and it flows.
Dave, My apologies for missing your post. I was hoping that you would chime in. I came back to the thread with a mention notification from the top of the page and didn't even realize that I had missed a page by doing that.
I thank you for the answer and the time you put in. I still don't have a solid grasp of this Tecumseh stuff but am trying to learn.
Thanks,
Doug
No, an apology isn't good enough! I need a hug! LOL. I just told you what you had. You still need a way to use that power, via wiring and distribution. For what it's worth, you have huge power (in perspective) available off of that system. You can run all of your lights off of the AC (yellow wire) as long as they're incandescent. (Not LED) That is 5 amps. Roughly, your lighting system can be rated at 60 watts, which is double most MC headlamps. (You could run the bright and the dim at the same time) That still leaves you with 3 amps to charge the battery at. You adding an electric 12vdc starter wouldn't even bother it, unless you only rode it for 5 minutes after grinding away on the starter for a few minutes. (Just putting it in perspective) You might need an Eleprechaun. That's an electrician, small, who wears green tights buckle shoes, and herds electrons with a rubber-gloved fist.