Coleman ct200 u ex steering bearing replacement?

#1
I'm replacing the bearings but can't get the old race out, are there bearings on the earlier Coleman's with the 5/8 crankshaft because there isn't even a lip to punch them out from the other side, when I took it apart no pieces of bearing came out now I don't know what to think?
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#2
I'm replacing the bearings but can't get the old race out, are there bearings on the earlier Coleman's with the 5/8 crankshaft because there isn't even a lip to punch them out from the other side, when I took it apart no pieces of bearing came out now I don't know what to think?
Pictures please, most of my bikes have bushings. I haven't needed to change the ones in my coleman.
 
#4
I have 22 mm bearings and a spacer and that metal piece is the same size I just wanted to make sure before I keep driving it out
 
#7
I just found the inside of a bearing that dropped out and I didn't see,I'm going to get a longer punch set and hopefully that works
 

Triley41395

Well-Known Member
#8
I just found the inside of a bearing that dropped out and I didn't see,I'm going to get a longer punch set and hopefully that works
Hard to tell from your picture but looks like a bicycle bearing to me. I've not changed any in a mini like that. Most likely when I need to do my coleman I will just replace with a bronze bushing even if I have to make it myself.
 
#11
Started dremeling the top one and a piece broke off but I'm not doing this on bottom, I don't even know if I want to buy a set of punches when their is no lip
 

Bird Brain

Active Member
#12
Whats your honest shop skill level? Thats not meant as insult, but rather gives me a better idea what to suggest. I deal with this kind of problem often and there are a few different ways to do it. Tacking a bolt cut to length that spans the inner diameter would be easiest then hit that from the opposite side. That requires a welder of course and enough experience with it not to burn through that bearing race welding it to the inside of the neck tube. Thats kind of why i was asking your shop capabilities not for judgement purposes but for best recomendation for your level of ability and equipment you might have on hand.
 

Bird Brain

Active Member
#13
This works also and is a simple garage piece. A coupling nut, 2 jamb nuts, and 2 bolts. One end ground to a point and one end ground to a sort of a chisel point. Torque it up inside the race and lock the jamb nuts then hit it from the opposite end more on the chisel point end than the center. You get my drift. This is easy also without the welding. Obviously wouldnt work for a timken cone type bearing race. The art i borrowed offline, my skill level art wise is about a 2 on a scale of 1 to 100.
 

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#14
Ya thanks for your reply, I don't have a welder but seen that way of doing it, I'm going to try heating the outside and compressed air on the race to cool it down and hopefully it drops out. The top one that I chewed all up I'm not sure yet, I like the idea of the jam nuts but it's less than an inch across, I don't if I could find them small enough
 

Bird Brain

Active Member
#15
I understand that. Tight and restrictive space. Well im sure you will get it. This is the correct puller for that job but i didn't mention it earlier as a quality one does have some sticker shock attached to it. Best of luck with it.
 

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#16
Why not leave the race installed and replace the bearing?
It is like the head bearing on a bicycle, right? Just a race with balls captured in it?

If you're going to heat the tube, try CO2 for chilling the race.
 
#17
Ya it's actually the outside of the bearing shell stuck in there and the new bearings won't go in, ya I am going to try co2, if that doesn't work I might have to get that puller
 
#19
Ya spark wizard that's a good idea, pilot bearing puller, I think Im going to get a good long punch and try that and then see about that puller. Kicker is I just checked my other one and there shot also, can't complain to much as they were given to me
 
#20
Ya that looks like that'll work spark wizard, that pilot bearing puller attachment and a slide hammer might do the truck, I'm getting ahold of AutoZone, I'll keep yin's posted
 
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