I have mine on order and hoping to get it next week. I'm not sure what bike I'll be using it on yet but I have some questions like how much HP can you run through it and how many RPM's is it safe to spin it up to? Also I can see some problems with having to hold the lever down constantly for starting etc. Years ago I had a 2 stroke bike I had bought from a speed equipment shop that had a manual clutch with no neutral and it had a latching clutch lever to lock it closed for idling. Has anyone ever seen a clutch lever assembly like that? Shouldn't be too hard to fabricate a latch but it would be easier just to buy one already setup that way. It will be interesting to see what you guys come up with.
Eagle
Eagle
That was one of my first thoughts as well. For drag racing it would not be an issue, however, for a "daily rider", with the run-stop-run-slow-stop, etc. typical use you would have to pull the clutch lever in every time or you will stall out. It would be nice if there was a lock-out feature for the clutch for starting, idling, low speed. I bet that one of our OldMiniBikes members will come up with a slick modification to allow for this.
Sidebar: Good to see you posting Warren!:thumbsup:
Michael
Sidebar: Good to see you posting Warren!:thumbsup:
Michael
The technology is already out there, I think it just needs to be adapted to this application.. I've been snowmobiling for 20+ years, and on the brake lever of snowmobiles, there is a small spring loaded lock out tab, which locks the brake on & serves as your parking brake when applied.. Just a thought.. :shrug:
Or get something like this... Push the pin in, and it locks the lever..
-Marc
Or get something like this... Push the pin in, and it locks the lever..
-Marc
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I just tested mine, on my jackshafted DB30. Its a nice clutch, well made, accurate dimentions and nice finish, they chose a good shop to mill the parts.
It works, and YES it hooks up extremely tight. With 1/8" slack in the lever it starts to grab at about half way off the grip, but the majority of lockup happens at the last half inch of travel. I did a few pinned wide open holeshots on dry pavment, a burnout and tried to ride normally too, at which point I noticed I need to gear down more, as this clutch has more teeth than the old max torque and it just plain hooks up....I feel it can handle some serious HP, alot more than my built flathead had for it....Neck right, just bump start it....easy and safe, otherwise get that locking lever guys.
I built my chain without a master link, the one supplied by RLV was so close, installed either way, i decided not to use it, just didnt want to scuff up the clutch. A standar master link might have a better chance at not hitting.
I placed my clutch lever over top of the brake, and figured out I could pull in clutch then brake with the outer three fingers....yes wierd, but I had to ride it.:laugh: afterwards the clutch was extremely hot, smoking from the assembly grease on it, and I could smell the fiber material. I let it cool, checked it over real good rode it again, and its worked perfect. As the lining wears it looses slack in the cable....so set it up such that the adjuster on the perch is screwed out a bit.
short video:
http://s818.photobucket.com/user/5X8Rider/media/MB165sDB30_zps74d20acc.mp4.html
levers:
It works, and YES it hooks up extremely tight. With 1/8" slack in the lever it starts to grab at about half way off the grip, but the majority of lockup happens at the last half inch of travel. I did a few pinned wide open holeshots on dry pavment, a burnout and tried to ride normally too, at which point I noticed I need to gear down more, as this clutch has more teeth than the old max torque and it just plain hooks up....I feel it can handle some serious HP, alot more than my built flathead had for it....Neck right, just bump start it....easy and safe, otherwise get that locking lever guys.
I built my chain without a master link, the one supplied by RLV was so close, installed either way, i decided not to use it, just didnt want to scuff up the clutch. A standar master link might have a better chance at not hitting.
I placed my clutch lever over top of the brake, and figured out I could pull in clutch then brake with the outer three fingers....yes wierd, but I had to ride it.:laugh: afterwards the clutch was extremely hot, smoking from the assembly grease on it, and I could smell the fiber material. I let it cool, checked it over real good rode it again, and its worked perfect. As the lining wears it looses slack in the cable....so set it up such that the adjuster on the perch is screwed out a bit.
short video:
http://s818.photobucket.com/user/5X8Rider/media/MB165sDB30_zps74d20acc.mp4.html
levers:
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Yamaha Bear Tracker rear brake lever. Has the lock already built in or you can buy the lock separately from Yamaha for $15. Those locking bicycle brake levers will probably work but they won't have the leverage a dirt bike or atv lever will have nor will they have the right sized hole for the barrel that the cable supplied has.
Hi MB165,
Thanks for the honest review, we really appreciate it! As far as the cable slack goes, this isn't the liner wearing. When the clutch heats up it expands and changes the actuation point. We forgot to mention that the cable slack should be adjusted for a warm clutch, not cold. If the liner were wearing, it would act to tighten up the cable not to loosen it!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
We've put several several hours on our prototypes and have yet to notice any measurable wear on that clutch friction material. I think folks are going to be amazed at how robust this thing is in terms of wear.
Also, MB165 what did you think about the acceleration of our clutch versus a comparable centrifugal clutch with a similar tooth count?
Thanks for the honest review, we really appreciate it! As far as the cable slack goes, this isn't the liner wearing. When the clutch heats up it expands and changes the actuation point. We forgot to mention that the cable slack should be adjusted for a warm clutch, not cold. If the liner were wearing, it would act to tighten up the cable not to loosen it!:thumbsup::thumbsup:
We've put several several hours on our prototypes and have yet to notice any measurable wear on that clutch friction material. I think folks are going to be amazed at how robust this thing is in terms of wear.
Also, MB165 what did you think about the acceleration of our clutch versus a comparable centrifugal clutch with a similar tooth count?
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Ok, I never thought about thermal expansion, and yeah I really did run it hard and HOT, the friction disk looks perfect. The cone/ cup shape looks like the key to good lockup and minumal wear. Im still trying to grasp why not to torque the crank bolt...because of the expansion??
On my bike, your clutch vs. a centrifigal unit(max torque in my case)....since Im controlling it, off the line, pickup is definatley quicker even with the higher gear ratio.
On my bike, your clutch vs. a centrifigal unit(max torque in my case)....since Im controlling it, off the line, pickup is definatley quicker even with the higher gear ratio.
The bolt in the crankshaft cannot be torqued because it will reduce or negate the preload clamping force on the clutch. The bolt and washer are only there to keep the key in place. We already have plans to solve this minor issue on the next batch of clutches and a bolt will not be required. If you torque this bolt down, the clutch could loose some of its preload force and it would be more likely to slip. The male drive cone is keyed to the crankshaft and it's forced into the driven cone with a set of disc springs. If you torque on the face of the male drive cone, it will counteract this preload. The lock washer is on there so that as the clutch wears and the male driver moves outward, it can absorb that movement and not affect the preload.
Hi Injuntom,
Yes our thread can be found here (beware, it is very long!): http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/e...19-manual-clutch-horizontal-shaft-engine.html
Also, you can check out our website for more information Downs Brothers Racing- Manual Clutch for mini bikes, go karts, industrial equipment, lawn mower racing, electrathon cars, etc.
Yes our thread can be found here (beware, it is very long!): http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/e...19-manual-clutch-horizontal-shaft-engine.html
Also, you can check out our website for more information Downs Brothers Racing- Manual Clutch for mini bikes, go karts, industrial equipment, lawn mower racing, electrathon cars, etc.
Sure this would work as well. We also suggest using Hi Temp JB weld to glue the key into the male drive cone. The key was supposed to be press fit into the male drive cone, but there was too much variation in tolerance between the parts for this to work on each one. The next iterations will have a set screw type mechanism to hold the key in place.
Delivered
Just got home to find the clutch was delivered today. It looks very well made, feels solid and ball bearings are evident. Will dig into it tonight. A flathead Briggs would look great sporting this clutch.
Thanks to the Downs Brothers for hanging on and getting it done, as this clutch gets used we will comment and all learn from it.
Just got home to find the clutch was delivered today. It looks very well made, feels solid and ball bearings are evident. Will dig into it tonight. A flathead Briggs would look great sporting this clutch.
Thanks to the Downs Brothers for hanging on and getting it done, as this clutch gets used we will comment and all learn from it.