gc160 carb manifold

[kidgambit]

so it already has the tc already installed. so it idles fine for 30 secs then idles high. I thing the custom rubber hose manifold is trapping gas and causing high idles. so waiting for my curved manifold so I can see if that's why I'm getting sporadic high idles

 

[DaddyJohn]

A high idle can be caused by an air leak. One check for that is to spray WD40, carb spray, etc. on potential leak spots to see if the rpm changes.

 

[Harquebus]

The rubber manifold (the word rubber on its face) seems wrong for this application. I wouldn't trust it at all.

 

[Minimichael]

Your new manifold is sure to change things. Narrower and longer will likely improve your low end torque and idle, too. You might even want to reset your needle and jet now. Post an update when you do. Good luck.

 

[kidgambit]

so the solid metal manifold fixed the surging idles but the curved manifold is causing the carb to right near a part of the frame and I can't get a airfilter on. but runs better

 

[sparkwizard]

A high idle can be caused by an air leak. One check for that is to spray WD40, carb spray, etc. on potential leak spots to see if the rpm changes.

An unlit propane torch is safer and cleaner. Just make it hiss and wave the tip over any potential leaks.

 

[sparkwizard]

Even with a TC, you need your rear sprocket to be somewhere close to half the diameter of the tire.
Your belt will engage and never shift, your engine will never have enough torque to move the bike fast enough to allow the belt to shift. It will always bog and struggle unless you change the ratio between the converter and the wheel. (Larger sprocket on the wheel)

 

[DaddyJohn]

An unlit propane torch is safer and cleaner. Just make it hiss and wave the tip over any potential leaks.

In all fairness, I’ve only lit an engine on fire two, maybe three times max…

 

[sparkwizard]

I have caused a few underhood fires with squirt bottles of gas, and cans of ether and, yes spraying carb cleaner on top of a running V8.
Now, I like a propane torch with a long hose.

 

[kidgambit]

Even with a TC, you need your rear sprocket to be somewhere close to half the diameter of the tire.
Your belt will engage and never shift, your engine will never have enough torque to move the bike fast enough to allow the belt to shift. It will always bog and struggle unless you change the ratio between the converter and the wheel. (Larger sprocket on the wheel)

is a 54 tooth better

 

[sparkwizard]

A general rule: How TALL is your TIRE? (The rubber part)
Looks close to 18 inches to me...18 divided by 2 is 9inches.
Whatever your TIRE height is, divided by 2 would be the diameter of a sprocket that would get you into a good range for general riding.

 

[DaddyJohn]

A general rule: How TALL is your TIRE? (The rubber part)
Looks close to 18 inches to me...18 divided by 2 is 9inches.
Whatever your TIRE height is, divided by 2 would be the diameter of a sprocket that would get you into a good range for general riding.

Looks like 10x2.50 tires as found on an XR50 and clone pit bikes; OD should be around 15”. His 54 tooth (looks like a #40 sprocket) idea might put him into a decent gearing with a TC.

 

[kidgambit]

Looks like 10x2.50 tires as found on an XR50 and clone pit bikes; OD should be around 15”. His 54 tooth (looks like a #40 sprocket) idea might put him into a decent gearing with a TC.

it's hard finding a sprocket. that will fit that bolt pattern

 

[sparkwizard]

Clamp two sprockets together and drill through the correct bolt holes, into the new, larger sprocket.