How best to fill in this kind of frame erosion?

[Bikerscum]

Looks like the frame got rained on for many years. I gather it's not a candidate for powdercoating, better to paint? Just use body filler & sand it down, or is there something I'm missing? Would primer fill it?

Thanks for the help...

 

[glenn baine]

I USE A POLYESTER METAL GLAZE

 

[jeep2003]

a skim coat of filler would be best I think. you can mix spot putty into regular filler for a smoother easier to sand mixture.

 

[gumpit]

Asphalt...:doah: those are big pot holes....

 

[Bruceo]

Looks like you have it blasted already,if so spray some etching primer on it.let dry,then scuff it and just fill the pits with filler..sand the filler and then spray with some regular primer ..sand that primer,then paint.

 

[Bikerscum]

The bazzillapixel cell phone pics make it look worse than it is. The pic of the engine plate is pretty accurate.

So, again, not a powdercoat candidate?

Thanks again for the help.

:grind:

 

[SaltCoupe]

I use everglas. Works well for me. :thumbsup:

 

[David wulf]

I would use some kind of filler as said above . If the motor plate pics are accurate then i would be worried that it will eventually crack , and fiiler there will probably crack out anyway .

 

[Havasu Dave]

So, again, not a powdercoat candidate?

One of the powdercoating guys here (Texaspowdercoater?) said to use JB weld to fair the metal, as it will hold up to the baking.

 

[WrenchDad]

One of the powdercoating guys here (Texaspowdercoater?) said to use JB weld to fair the metal, as it will hold up to the baking.

Agreed I would use the JB weld on the worst/ deepest spots. it has better strength and finishes well. I prefer the JB quick it is set and sandable in about seven minutes. We use at work on different machines Aluminum,steel,painted un painted, injection molds, it holds up good.

 

[Txpowdercoater]

Asphalt...:doah: those are big pot holes....

hahahahahha ziiiiiiiiiiiing!

 

[Txpowdercoater]

One of the powdercoating guys here (Texaspowdercoater?) said to use JB weld to fair the metal, as it will hold up to the baking.

blast clean like you have, then wipe with acetone, then apply the jb (red and white original formula, not the 4 hr quick dry type, I find it (4hr) doesnt seem to like the bake cycle so much). Smooth it on there with a stiff card that will wrap around the pipe a bit, then smooth it on and let it sit, then sand like any other filler.
It will be ok for powder then.:thumbsup:

 

[toomanytoys]

I don't know what your plans are for that bike, but I'd use hammer finish paint and call it a day!

 

[ogygopsis]

blast clean like you have, then wipe with acetone, then apply the jb (red and white original formula, not the 4 hr quick dry type, I find it (4hr) doesnt seem to like the bake cycle so much). Smooth it on there with a stiff card that will wrap around the pipe a bit, then smooth it on and let it sit, then sand like any other filler.
It will be ok for powder then.:thumbsup:

You are correct. The JB Kwik Weld has a lower melting point than the regular JB Weld. Ogy

 

[Havasu Dave]

blast clean like you have, then wipe with acetone, then apply the jb (red and white original formula, not the 4 hr quick dry type, I find it (4hr) doesnt seem to like the bake cycle so much). Smooth it on there with a stiff card that will wrap around the pipe a bit, then smooth it on and let it sit, then sand like any other filler.
It will be ok for powder then.:thumbsup:

You are correct. The JB Kwik Weld has a lower melting point than the regular JB Weld. Ogy

Good advice! I use a moistened finger to smooth the stuff out, because sanding this stuff is a hassle.

(Moistened finger= spit) :laugh:

For paint, you could try filler primer after acetone, or boat products like West 404 mixed with polyester resin. (or talcum powder) I've found it sticks real well to prepped metal.

 

[WrenchDad]

blast clean like you have, then wipe with acetone, then apply the jb (red and white original formula, not the 4 hr quick dry type, I find it (4hr) doesnt seem to like the bake cycle so much).

I wasnt aware of that (the lower melt point on the JB quick) We use it in all kinds of heat situations but I've never actually "baked" it. Good to know.

 

[wheels1950]

What is it

Show the hole bike please
Is it worth the effort ?
I'll fix anything where there's a will there's a way!
That could be fixed
If your worried about the engine plate either cut it off or make a new copy and weld it to it.
Where u from
are u able to weld the plate in?
Fill the frame bars with filler and prime to paint

 

[ogygopsis]

blast clean like you have, then wipe with acetone, then apply the jb (red and white original formula, not the 4 hr quick dry type, I find it (4hr) doesnt seem to like the bake cycle so much).

I wasnt aware of that (the lower melt point on the JB quick) We use it in all kinds of heat situations but I've never actually "baked" it. Good to know.

W.D. Original JB weld can withstand a constant temp of 500 degrees fahrenheit and a maximum temp of 600 degrees for only ten minutes. Kwik weld can only withstand a maximum temp of 300 degrees. Both have the same holding and strength characteristics however. Ogy

 

[george3]

At least 50% of the steel is rotted away. Its actually junk. Just use standard body filler, Prime and paint. Why powder coat it may break anyway. I wouldnt spend more than rattle can on it. Why not a pic. of the whole bike?

 

[Bikerscum]

Thanks for all the tips guys. I'll post some pics as I go along.


:thumbsup: