Hydraulic brake issue

intelinside83

intelinside83

New Member
#1
#1
So I installed a hydraulic brake kit from hotrodmini and installed it with a couple washers to space it out a little bit which it needed. Brakes work fine till you hit the lever once and the brakes pretty much drag / stay engaged till you tap the lever again. Also maybe worth mentioning when pushing the doodlebug backwards it locks up the brakes too... Any suggestions
 
ProMod

ProMod

#2
#2
The first thing I would check for is for a bent rotor/disc. If you do not have a dial indicator setup then just roll the back tire around while holding a pencil or something close to the rotor to spot any run out. Also would be good to measure from each bolt hole area on the frame tab where the caliper mounts to the rotor to make sure the tab is not welded on crooked. Usually the caliper bolts right on and no spacing is required ,so it kinda throws up a flag that you had to space it out to begin with. (wheel spacing can also be an issue) You can hold pressure on the lever and gently crack the bleeder to see if any air escapes. Air in the system can cause problems as well. But do not let the master reservoir go dry when doing this or you will have to completely bleed the brakes again. If everything looks OK but the caliper is still dragging because the piston is sticking then don't ride the bike and give us a call so I can help out.
 
Erok000

Erok000

Member
#4
#4
intelinside83 said:
So I installed a hydraulic brake kit from hotrodmini and installed it with a couple washers to space it out a little bit which it needed. Brakes work fine till you hit the lever once and the brakes pretty much drag / stay engaged till you tap the lever again. Also maybe worth mentioning when pushing the doodlebug backwards it locks up the brakes too... Any suggestions
Click to expand...
I had the same problem, could ever get it right. I tried everything, checked everything, never could fix it. I went to a clutch brake and havent looked back. Wasnt worth the hassle in my opinion. Maybe it was my terrain I ride on, but then it is really no use to me so Im very happy with my clutch brake.

Im not dissing Promod, They are awesome. Im just speaking of my experience With the hydros':thumbsup::scooter:
 
Mini420

Mini420

New Member
#5
#5
ProMod said:
The first thing I would check for is for a bent rotor/disc. If you do not have a dial indicator setup then just roll the back tire around while holding a pencil or something close to the rotor to spot any run out. Also would be good to measure from each bolt hole area on the frame tab where the caliper mounts to the rotor to make sure the tab is not welded on crooked. Usually the caliper bolts right on and no spacing is required ,so it kinda throws up a flag that you had to space it out to begin with. (wheel spacing can also be an issue) You can hold pressure on the lever and gently crack the bleeder to see if any air escapes. Air in the system can cause problems as well. But do not let the master reservoir go dry when doing this or you will have to completely bleed the brakes again. If everything looks OK but the caliper is still dragging because the piston is sticking then don't ride the bike and give us a call so I can help out.
Click to expand...
thats is good service.
Erok000 said:
I had the same problem, could ever get it right. I tried everything, checked everything, never could fix it. I went to a clutch brake and havent looked back. Wasnt worth the hassle in my opinion. Maybe it was my terrain I ride on, but then it is really no use to me so Im very happy with my clutch brake.

Im not dissing Promod, They are awesome. Im just speaking of my experience With the hydros':thumbsup::scooter:
Click to expand...
Pro mod is great..

Im kinda getting that same issue with my hydros as well but its not bad at all. Another thing im noticing is when i hit the brake, i get a lil vibration by the clutch??? everything is tight and nothing is bent......ANY IDEAS??

Thanks
 
S

shambrick

New Member
#6
#6
ProMod said:
Usually the caliper bolts right on and no spacing is required ,so it kinda throws up a flag that you had to space it out to begin with.
Click to expand...
The original poster did not say which version of the DB he has, but at least on mine (new style frame), I had the exact same spacing issue when mounting for the 1st time yesterday, and had to throw three 1/4" washers on each bolt to get things to line up. The flange on the hydro brakes is about 1/2 the thickness of the cable breaks.

I've not used the breaks yet, so don't know if I have the binding issue.
 
intelinside83

intelinside83

New Member
#7
#7
shambrick said:
The original poster did not say which version of the DB he has, but at least on mine (new style frame), I had the exact same spacing issue when mounting for the 1st time yesterday, and had to throw three 1/4" washers on each bolt to get things to line up. The flange on the hydro brakes is about 1/2 the thickness of the cable breaks.

I've not used the breaks yet, so don't know if I have the binding issue.
Click to expand...
I have the old style db... so what you guys are saying I shouldn't have to out the spacers in there? I have a final indicator I'll take a look at the run out on the disc. Thanks I will keep you all posted.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
Erok000

Erok000

Member
#10
#10
Mine is the old style, and required spacers..... On 2 bikes:eek:ut:.. If your riding on the street, hydros may be fine. But if you ride offroad, I would not suggest them.
 
C

Camjamsdad

Active Member
#11
#11
I have hydros on both an old style and a new style. Both fit fine, both work fine. Only issue I had was running the hose where I wanted it. A simple loosening, of the banjo fitting allowed me to route the hose where I wanted it. Street or offroad I love these brakes
 
deesel

deesel

Member
#12
#12
I had similar problem with my new hydro brakes. Grabbed the brakes a couple times to go around a corner and after i got around the corner- my brakes were dragging. I pumped them a few times and it didnt really help. After about a 1/2 mile or so- they gradually released. Seemed like they hydralic locked or maybe trapped air. Im gonna maybe rebleed them and see if that helps- im sure nothing major wrong with them. They sure have a great feel to them! They feel like they work better than the brakes on my harley.
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#13
#13
the easiest way to bleed these is reverse force bleed them...I used a large syringe and a piece of 1/8" fuel line slipped over the bleeder valve on the caliper..pull the reservoir cap off and slowly push the brake fluid in the caliper, it will go up the line and push all the air out with it when it gets to the reservoir.... These pocket bike calipers are notorious for problems with the piston sticking....I've dealt with several of them when my kids were into the pb's...it's hit and miss to get a good one... sometime you have to pull the caliper apart, hone it out a little, polish the piston to remove any burrs or corrosion..
 
intelinside83

intelinside83

New Member
#15
#15
Sounds like too much of a hassle for something I shouldn't have to do. Luckily this is on my buddy's db30 mine still has the mechanical brake system! Works like a charm just keep them adjusted

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
 
C

chazdaddy

New Member
#20
#20
1st DB30 with 6.5 clone was scary with the stock mechanical brakes. So, I got the hydraulics and they work great. A few DB30's later, I have a different opinion of the mechanical brakes. After they are worn in, they work a lot better. I still prefer the hydraulic for street, but on dirt I don't think you need them. :shrug:
 
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