I should have braced the block

[DBMonster85]

So I started to gather parts for my 2.815 genuine GX200 build and I have already bored the block. is it possible to go back and do atleast some minor bracing to the block then just have the bore honed to be true again or am I just stuck with it like it is unless I bore it again?? also I'm still on the fence about buying ARC's stroker kit. do I need to clearance the block for that crank and rod? if so does anyone have any pics of a block they have done? please help. lol I might just leave it stock stroke this time and run with the big bore. I just feel like they go hand in hand if you do one you should do the other and go all the way.

 

[Bbeachmobile]

WOW nobody replied to you yet im not sure where to look on here maybe try looking for "minidragbike" best bet is to look for


Charles Minidragbike Mosley on FB
im not sure what "minor"block bracing is but to be honestly anything more than a billet side cover is overkill the honda blocks have a higher nickle content so are generally stronger blocks than the clones.How much hp are you trying to make?
i have a 212 HEMI clone with no bracing even a stock side cover pushing 22 hp with no issues since i joined this sight lol


'

 

[trinik7597]

with the 2.815 bore you will not need bracing !! especially with a real honda block but if you stroke it you will . dont really have to worry about bracing until you get to 3" or stroker .

 

[DBMonster85]

WOW nobody replied to you yet im not sure where to look on here maybe try looking for "minidragbike" best bet is to look for


Charles Minidragbike Mosley on FB
im not sure what "minor"block bracing is but to be honestly anything more than a billet side cover is overkill the honda blocks have a higher nickle content so are generally stronger blocks than the clones.How much hp are you trying to make?
i have a 212 HEMI clone with no bracing even a stock side cover pushing 22 hp with no issues since i joined this sight lol


'

Not sure what h.p I'm trying to achieve as of how much WILL it be. Lol I am running a billet side cover and my head is a genuine gx200 head with welded chamber for a ballpark figure of about 12cc. It will have custom made titanium valves from a well known man around my area(Jarvis Performance) he's on YouTube with his box chevy van that runs 9's. Lol anyhow I got a isky 310/246 cam and a ultralight flywheel. The flywheel might change to adjustable with the better coil though if I go the stroker route.

 

[DBMonster85]

 

[DBMonster85]

Trinik thanks bud that's the answer I was hoping for. I was hoping with the billet side cover it would be OK. I mean I'm no fool I know at any time this motor could let go. Lol last year I ran 10.2 in a 1/8th mile at 68mph with a black mamba build I didn't think that was to bad at all. Hoping for alot more obviously with this build.

 

[DBMonster85]

trinik do you think if I decide to stroke it and I already bored the block can I do my welding and just go back and check the bore and hone if needed. what I meant by doing a little bracing is just doing the top and bottom of the jug

 

[trinik7597]

its not ideal !! but i think i remember reading that someone did it with good results

 

[DBMonster85]

so I would basicly have to re bore it to do it the right way

 

[bdomit01]

You need to clearance the block for the rod with the stroker, atleast I had to any way. I should have some pics of it laying around, just have to find them first.

 

[DBMonster85]

You need to clearance the block for the rod with the stroker, atleast I had to any way. I should have some pics of it laying around, just have to find them first.

I was hoping you would chime in. Lol

 

[bdomit01]

I couldn't find one after I took after clearancing for the crank. But I found when I clearances for the cam. The area I circled up top in the first picture shows where I had to clearance for the crank. Just about as much as the cams I had to grind off. On the second picture you can see how close the top of the rod gets to the bottom of the cylinder.

 

[trinik7597]

just curious what honda casting is that with no gov holes or low oil sensor hole ?? even if you did want to brace it now you would have to get rid of the powder coat in those areas :thumbsup:

 

[trinik7597]

forget it i got confused on who was posting pics :thumbsup:

 

[DBMonster85]

I couldn't find one after I took after clearancing for the crank. But I found when I clearances for the cam. The area I circled up top in the first picture shows where I had to clearance for the crank. Just about as much as the cams I had to grind off. On the second picture you can see how close the top of the rod gets to the bottom of the cylinder.

so you had to get a starter box to start it huh? that's the only thing holding me back from doing the stroker now is another 250 on a starter. lol im just getting tapped out. the stroker kit is a stretch already but i guess i have all winter, ill just be to damn pumped to get it running to wait for a starter box.

 

[bdomit01]

Nope I don't use a starter only it. It has around 14:1 compression and pull starts on the first pull every time. The stroker crank comes clearanced for the compression release so you no longer need to remove it.

 

[DBMonster85]

Nope I don't use a starter only it. It has around 14:1 compression and pull starts on the first pull every time. The stroker crank comes clearanced for the compression release so you no longer need to remove it.

Sweet. Now that you say that I remember going over this already. Well enough said. I'm doing it. Only thing is I have no bracing. That's going to such at 9 grand. Lmao.