I snuck out after dark. I shot the video with my digital camera and it doesnt do the headlight justice. There is alot more depth with the led, its not just bright up close. I almost got the rabbit at :53.
night01_zpscc74cdf1.mp4 Video by 5X8Rider | Photobucket
night01_zpscc74cdf1.mp4 Video by 5X8Rider | Photobucket
Meet the Roadwidow, a mix of roadster and blackwidow. It has a high power 30watt LED headlight and a DC charging system with battery. The engine has been rebuilt with a new billet rod, valves, rings, 94 series dynocam, coil, points, condenser and a rebuilt Dellorto carb. The swingarm has a greaseable bushing pivot and it has sebac springs on new hydraulic shocks. All recent rechrome, paint, relaced wheels, cables, every component has been inspected, refinished, replated or whatever it needed it got. Its easy to start, idles smooth and pulls hard throughout with a very strong midrange.
running video: DSCF4820_zps88ba5892.mp4 Video by 5X8Rider | Photobucket
running video: DSCF4820_zps88ba5892.mp4 Video by 5X8Rider | Photobucket
plastic rechrome.....finally got it back
After four months I finally got my headlight bucket assy. back from south bay chrome. They had to do it two times to get it right. I almost gave up, used a borrowed bucket for the build off and windber. I must say it was well worth the wait it is absoloutley beautiful, better than factory rupp chrome. Total was $88+ shipping
After four months I finally got my headlight bucket assy. back from south bay chrome. They had to do it two times to get it right. I almost gave up, used a borrowed bucket for the build off and windber. I must say it was well worth the wait it is absoloutley beautiful, better than factory rupp chrome. Total was $88+ shipping
Did a little polishing today............
I sent the headlight housing out for a rechrome. I have no idea what its going to look like but for the price ill try it.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz105/5X8Rider
/DSCF4205_zps56ff0456.jpg
Ignition is all back together with new points and condensor, timing is set at .035 Btdc, and the flywheel taper got lapped.
theres alot of room to add more turns to those lighting coils. I might have to play with them next winter.
The clutches are in great shape, did a good cleaning, sprayed some dry lube on the friction surfaces and replaced the jackshaft bearings. I have a new belt on order.
http://i818.photobucket.com/albums/zz105/5X8Rider
/DSCF4205_zps56ff0456.jpg
Ignition is all back together with new points and condensor, timing is set at .035 Btdc, and the flywheel taper got lapped.
theres alot of room to add more turns to those lighting coils. I might have to play with them next winter.
The clutches are in great shape, did a good cleaning, sprayed some dry lube on the friction surfaces and replaced the jackshaft bearings. I have a new belt on order.
Did you just pin the fly fly wheel around/over the crank tapper?
I'd like to know how adding more tunrs to coils comes out, if it works i'd like to do the same.
The regulator rectifier came in today, nice little unit, heres the spec pages.
Where did you pick this unit up? how much did it cost?
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the hub is a factory rear rupp hub.
My original trail tech regulator died...... infant mortality. I replaced it with a similar one from a JD L120 lawn tractor (because I had it). It is wired in just the same, and will power the LED's without a battery. The alternator is currently only a single pole in use....I am still hashing out details of the double pole with inventorpardue and a few others....but just tying them together wont work, they kill each other. It may be as simple as winding one opposite direction....
you could keep the system as is and use the AC input yellow wires on the regulator...one to ground and one to the post on the engine connector that corresponds to the head light circuit. you should get a good DC out put on the red and ground for battery and then LED. the other engine wire is the taillight and could be left alone.
Anyway, all of it came from ebay, the LEDs china as I cant afford any US made ones. I have a several spares if your interested....
My original trail tech regulator died...... infant mortality. I replaced it with a similar one from a JD L120 lawn tractor (because I had it). It is wired in just the same, and will power the LED's without a battery. The alternator is currently only a single pole in use....I am still hashing out details of the double pole with inventorpardue and a few others....but just tying them together wont work, they kill each other. It may be as simple as winding one opposite direction....
you could keep the system as is and use the AC input yellow wires on the regulator...one to ground and one to the post on the engine connector that corresponds to the head light circuit. you should get a good DC out put on the red and ground for battery and then LED. the other engine wire is the taillight and could be left alone.
Anyway, all of it came from ebay, the LEDs china as I cant afford any US made ones. I have a several spares if your interested....
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You need to find some radio/HAM enthusiasts i bet those guys know all about coils. it all else fails could one be tied in like it is another and another used to charge the batter maybe with it's regulator? or being on the same circuit or battery still have the same problem?
for the crank tapper lapping do you just through a dab or laping compound on there and spin the fly wheel round and round?
for the crank tapper lapping do you just through a dab or laping compound on there and spin the fly wheel round and round?
