Mighty Burro made in Midway Wa.

matt2

New Member
#21
I just ordered 2 new turf tires and tubes for the Mighty Burro. I'm taking the rims down to be sand blasted. I may paint them but I am leaning towards having them powder coated. If the front rim was also aluminum I would just clean them. I could clean them down to metal and clear coat them. Does anyone have pictures of steel rims that have been clear coated with no paint color and run for awhile?
 

matt2

New Member
#22
I just dropped off the 2 rear wheel pieces to be sand blasted. I was just going to sand and wire brush the front steel wheel. The sand blast guy has a $20.00 minimum so he said I could bring the front wheel in anytime and he would throw it in. The inside of the wheels have the original yellow.




 

matt2

New Member
#24
I got the belt ordered for the 40 series comet clutch set up. All I can say is those belts are not cheap. The brake is hooked up right with new brake lever and cable. The seat main spring is all worn out so I ordered a new heaver spring.
 

matt2

New Member
#27
The Moto & Minni Burro
Here is a rare bike that I had sitting in my basement for years before I knew what it was.
The only clue to the manufacture was a large embossed Burro's head on the sheet metal
head badge. Then I received an email from Don Williams who had a brochure on this bike.
I have posted this brochure to this web page and in the near future I will post some pictures
of surviving examples of this bikes.

I would like to thank Don Williams for his valuable contribution.



 

matt2

New Member
#28
SPRAY BOMB I had them blasted and I primed and painted with camouflage. The rear wheel is very pitted, I think casting flaws. The steel front wheel has no pitting at all so not corrosion. I have the new inner tubes, but the tires won't be here tell Tuesday. Here are the spray bomb pictures.


















 
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matt2

New Member
#29
The Briggs & Stratton that came in the Mighty Burro had a bigger mounting pattern then the Tecumseh hm80.So on the mounting plate I used the left rear slot as the master slot. Then I cut 2 new front slots. The last slot the right rear I widened just a bit. Now I have a bolt pattern for the 8hp Tecumseh and the pattern is still there for the original Briggs & Stratton. The 8hp Tecumseh fits good looks good. I would much rather have the original engine on her it fits better, fuller. I put up a picture of the original engine so you can compare the 2 and see the Briggs & Stratton fits better.






 

buckeye

Well-Known Member
#31
Ooks real good Matt.
I'd like to find one of those Minni's. Then I could go clam digging.:laugh:

Also, what or how did you do the new mounting holes in the engine plate?? Are they just holesk Or slots so you can adjust?
Lookin good Matt.:thumbsup:
 

matt2

New Member
#32
Thanks buckeye. I used one original slot in the rear and had to widen the other just a little. I cut 2 new slot in the front so it is adjustable and the old pattern it still there too.:thumbsup:
 

matt2

New Member
#34
Hi you guys I still need to hook up the kill switch and cut throttle to fit that's it. I ran the engine today and got to see chains, belt and rear wheel spin. The aftermarket 40 series clutch with the original driven pulley and new belt all seem to work fine. The original driven pulley seems to open very quickly, as soon as I throttle up. I am hoping that with a rider on it the driven will hold longer on acceleration. Does anyone know if that old original driven pulley is adjustable? Here are some pictures.













Just showing where I need to cut the throttle cable housing.
 
#36
Does anyone know if that old original driven pulley is adjustable? Here are some pictures.
It's coming along nicely Matt. From what I gather, those drivens were/are adjustable only by installing stiffer springs.

I wouldn't use a static no load test to determine anything at this point though. It'll probably work good once you ride it.

I say that because I see the same things on my last two driven systems. (My only two) Seemed like everything was working way faster than it should have, but the Gote worked fine once under load.

I'm getting a kick out of all those pillow blocks. :thumbsup:
 

matt2

New Member
#37
Thanks Dave I think you are right once there is a load on it it will work fine. Yeah I agree with you on all the pillow blocks hope it all stays adjusted. :scooter:
 

matt2

New Member
#38
I had to flip the air filter over so it would not hit the pillow block and chain. Now that it is flipped over I can't turn the choke all the way off. To be able to turn the choke all the way off I will have to bend the swing arm. The air cleaner fits and the choke works fine now.




after flipping could only open the choke half way.


Bend the swing arm and it opens all the way



full choke.


shows bent swing arm
 
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matt2

New Member
#39
Hi every body I ordered what I hope is the rest of what I need to make the Mighty Burro ready to ride. The parts are going to get here on Thursday. I hope to have it running this coming weekend. I still need to replace a jackshaft shaft, a few locking collars, a couple of keys and two sprockets on the jackshafts. I did buy a set of Trail Horse 5 spoke wheels off Ebay I am thinking about how they would look on the Mighty Burro. :grind:
 

matt2

New Member
#40
Working hard on the Mini [LOL] drinking light beer and watching this tire stretch and make it easy to install. I had to fix a leak, I use screw pinchers [drivers] to put on my tire.

 
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