Mikuni 22mm Carb vs CNC bored box carb

#1
Im wanting to upgrade my carb on my predator 212 and don't know if its worth it to spend the extra money and get the mikuni carb kit, i keep reading how much of an upgrade the mikuni carb is i just can't decide if its worth spending more than i did on my whole motor, any body have any experience in this area?
 
#2
IMHO worked stock carbs aren't worth it unless you're racing in a class that requires it. By the time you spend the money on the carb, filter, etubes, etc you're getting close to the price of a 22 kit. They're only around $100 bucks. The 22 would be a huge step up and works great with stock size valves, I'd run a 24 if running larger than stock valves though.
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#3
You failed to mention what you have done to the motor? Billet rod and flywheel of course? Ya dont want to get rid of the governor without those two mods! What cam are you running? Did you shave the head or get larger valves? What header are you running? Dont need more air goin' if it aint getting out!
Adding performance parts is liking wiping your a$$ with a wagon wheel, it never ends!
 
#4
You failed to mention what you have done to the motor? Billet rod and flywheel of course? Ya dont want to get rid of the governor without those two mods! What cam are you running? Did you shave the head or get larger valves? What header are you running? Dont need more air goin' if it aint getting out!
Adding performance parts is liking wiping your a$$ with a wagon wheel, it never ends!
itsa a bassically stock motor, im going to get a billet flywheel when i order the carb, i dont plan on running more than 5000rpm do i need to get the billett rod also? i also am wanting to do stiffer springs maybe 18lb i havent planned all that out yet, i was trying to get an idea on the carb first, this is just a toy, not for any racing or class restrictions, i just want some more power out of it, it has a stage 1 kit from OldMiniBikes right now with the header/muffler, high flow filter
 
#6
The bored out carbs are for Racing karts.....Stock appering..........so if you aren't racing go karts Go with a 22mm Mikuni roundSlide ...I have 1 it produces power like a mofo
 
#7
Also don't buy springs...Until you decide what cam you are gunna use, & get the rod cause a stock 6.5 predator motors Max Rpm is 3600..so get the flywheel also! Otherwise you are just gunna blow it up anyways
 
#8
Also don't buy springs...Until you decide what cam you are gunna use, & get the rod cause a stock 6.5 predator motors Max Rpm is 3600..so get the flywheel also! Otherwise you are just gunna blow it up anyways
How hard is it to change the rod? So i should get both the rod and the flywheel if i get the carb
 

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#9
How hard is it to change the rod? So i should get both the rod and the flywheel if i get the carb
Yes, if you are intent on that carb, get both rod and flywheel, but without a cam you will have minimal gains...and may actually make it run worse! What is your goal on this motor?
these engines are really easy to work on...not a lot of parts! The rod is not a big deal. You do have an "inch pounds" torque wrench...right? You will need to torque at minimum the rod bolts! BEFORE you buy a rod, take the head off and measure how far down in the hole the piston is. ARC makes different length rods to get you to zero deck. You have calipers...right? And while you are going that deep, you may as well do the cam and springs. Why go that far into without those...right? And while the valves are out for the spring replacement, why not clean up those ports a bit?
Once you pull that engine all apart, pull all of the governor bits out of there. I knock the pin through the flywheel side and tap the hole 1/4-20 and loctite a button head allen screw in. Do the same at the top of the case. Pull the low oil sensor out and plug that hole too!

See? It's like wipin' your a$$ with a wagon wheel, it never ends! Typically one mod leads to another, which leads to another....etc. Set a budget and a performance goal and do what ya can. It's just money...right?
 
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#10
i purchased one o fthe ARC .625 carbs and it just gave it a rich idle, dodnt notice a hwole lot of difference, ive got a Mikuni 22 on it not and it freakin flies. the ARC just sits in a box lol.
 
#12
Yes, if you are intent on that carb, get both rod and flywheel, but without a cam you will have minimal gains...and may actually make it run worse! What is your goal on this motor?
these engines are really easy to work on...not a lot of parts! The rod is not a big deal. You do have an "inch pounds" torque wrench...right? You will need to torque at minimum the rod bolts! BEFORE you buy a rod, take the head off and measure how far down in the hole the piston is. ARC makes different length rods to get you to zero deck. You have calipers...right? And while you are going that deep, you may as well do the cam and springs. Why go that far into without those...right? And while the valves are out for the spring replacement, why not clean up those ports a bit?
Once you pull that engine all apart, pull all of the governor bits out of there. I knock the pin through the flywheel side and tap the hole 1/4-20 and loctite a button head allen screw in. Do the same at the top of the case. Pull the low oil sensor out and plug that hole too!

See? It's like wipin' your a$$ with a wagon wheel, it never ends! Typically one mod leads to another, which leads to another....etc. Set a budget and a performance goal and do what ya can. It's just money...right?
My goal is basically a quick little toy, it's not for trails or anything but mainly straight sand and mud holes and hills, I didn't really plan to do porting and cam and all that, but if I need to I will, I'd like to do lower gears to make it really torque-y and then be able to hit a top speed around 40
 
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