mini drag bike 1 inch rear axle bearings?
- Thread starter chazdaddy
- Start date
- Tags 1 inch rear axle bearings dragbike
I don't have any idea how you would reduce the internal friction of a production [precision] ball bearing assembly. Other than removing the seals and using very light oil. In general ball bearings offers less drag than other types of bearings [tapered, roller, or needle and etc.] so, I'm thinking, you are using the right stuff. Unless you are sure that a 3/4 inch axle [kinda standard minibike axle] is inadequate that would be the way to go IMVHO. The 3/4 inch bearings, if compared apples to apples, will cause less parasitic loss than the 1 inch you mention. Hell, lots of full size motorcycles don't have axles larger in diameter than 3/4. One inch is kart stuff because wheel side load is present at every turn. If you get side load on the wheel of a minibike you will be on your head quick.
Oldsalt, thanks for reply. Actually, application is for racing kart. I have a 1986 Coyote laydown kart with Briggs Animal I road race. For more popular 1.25 inch axle there are free spinning axle bearings available. I think main difference is free spinning bearing uses light oil vs grease for lubrication with standard bearing.
Just thought some of the drag bike racers might share some secrets on how they loosen up their 1 inch axle bearings, or where they buy 1 inch free spinning axle bearings.
Thanks
Just thought some of the drag bike racers might share some secrets on how they loosen up their 1 inch axle bearings, or where they buy 1 inch free spinning axle bearings.
Thanks
if you have some bills to burn you can try ceramic bearings, they offer minimal resistance.
I personally haven't really gotten into special sizes and such i always had the regular sealed bearing with the removable clip on it. i know its kind of apples and oranges but there are ceramic skateboard bearings available and people dont like them because it makes the board too "slippery" when doing air tricks and its so much harder to land because of the minimal resistance. they say its like gliding on ice down the street.
and they run atleast $60 each
food for thought..
heres a link to what i found quick from google
R16 Full Ceramic Bearing 1"x2"x1/2":Ball Bearings
I personally haven't really gotten into special sizes and such i always had the regular sealed bearing with the removable clip on it. i know its kind of apples and oranges but there are ceramic skateboard bearings available and people dont like them because it makes the board too "slippery" when doing air tricks and its so much harder to land because of the minimal resistance. they say its like gliding on ice down the street.
and they run atleast $60 each
food for thought..
heres a link to what i found quick from google
R16 Full Ceramic Bearing 1"x2"x1/2":Ball Bearings
Mikesbike, thanks for reply. I am aware of ceramic bearings, never bought any, too expensive. I know they work well and are generally illegal for engines, but maybe OK for wheel/ axle bearings, I don't know.
When I was searching bearings I saw a lot of info about skateboard/ roller blade bearings. Almost 50 years ago I lived in Lancaster, CA and rode a homemade skateboard made with a piece of wood w/ attached metal skate wheels. A year or so later, my family moved back to TX where nobody knew what a skateboard was.
When I was searching bearings I saw a lot of info about skateboard/ roller blade bearings. Almost 50 years ago I lived in Lancaster, CA and rode a homemade skateboard made with a piece of wood w/ attached metal skate wheels. A year or so later, my family moved back to TX where nobody knew what a skateboard was.
chazdaddy
As I recall the Rule of Thumb with ball bearings [not true with outher tdesidns] is that they will take approx. 1/3 the axial loading [pushing the inner race sideways] as they will take radially [normal loaded direction]. As it is for a kart I'd go with as light a ball bearing assembly as possible and if that is 1" then that would be what I'd install and practice with to see if there is any durability issues. If you get a bearing catalog and read the few pages of application/technical stuff that they usually contain [I know Fafner does] you will note that they say to 'lock' only ONE bearing's inner race to a shaft if there are to be two or more bearings installed on that shaft. The reason is that shaft deflection, mounting frame deflection, and growth and shrinkage of the shaft length, due to changes in temperature, will singularly or in combination, 'pinch' the bearings and load them with an unwanted and unnecessary axial load. It only takes a few thousandths. I know, you see it all the time on karts and etc. where both bearings are locked solidly to the shaft.
As I recall the Rule of Thumb with ball bearings [not true with outher tdesidns] is that they will take approx. 1/3 the axial loading [pushing the inner race sideways] as they will take radially [normal loaded direction]. As it is for a kart I'd go with as light a ball bearing assembly as possible and if that is 1" then that would be what I'd install and practice with to see if there is any durability issues. If you get a bearing catalog and read the few pages of application/technical stuff that they usually contain [I know Fafner does] you will note that they say to 'lock' only ONE bearing's inner race to a shaft if there are to be two or more bearings installed on that shaft. The reason is that shaft deflection, mounting frame deflection, and growth and shrinkage of the shaft length, due to changes in temperature, will singularly or in combination, 'pinch' the bearings and load them with an unwanted and unnecessary axial load. It only takes a few thousandths. I know, you see it all the time on karts and etc. where both bearings are locked solidly to the shaft.
Thanks Oldsalt, some interesting comments. Generally with karts, the inner race is secured in position on the axle with locking collars. I normally install locking collars on both sides of each bearing. If you don't anchor the inner race against horizontal movement on the axle, you will have trouble with chain alignment and the rear brake rotor dragging because the axle will shift relative to the chassis when cornering.
The outer race is generally mounted to the kart bearing hanger with cassettes that allow the bearing to float as the axle and chassis flexes. Generally, kart axle bearings will last a long time, unless you race in the rain, or clean them too much and introduce contamination.
Years ago, 1 inch rear axles were common, my kart is 1986 vintage. Today, although 1 inch id axle bearings are available, I don't know where to get free spinning that size. Today, 1.25 inch, 40mm, and 50mm axles are common and
free spinning axle bearings lubricated with light oil are generally available for not a lot more than standard bearings lubricated with grease.
I think the mini drag bike racers are using 1 inch for the nice sprocket and brake hubs that are readily available for 1 inch axles and not available for smaller such as 3/4 and 5/8 inch generally used with minibikes.
Thanks
The outer race is generally mounted to the kart bearing hanger with cassettes that allow the bearing to float as the axle and chassis flexes. Generally, kart axle bearings will last a long time, unless you race in the rain, or clean them too much and introduce contamination.
Years ago, 1 inch rear axles were common, my kart is 1986 vintage. Today, although 1 inch id axle bearings are available, I don't know where to get free spinning that size. Today, 1.25 inch, 40mm, and 50mm axles are common and
free spinning axle bearings lubricated with light oil are generally available for not a lot more than standard bearings lubricated with grease.
I think the mini drag bike racers are using 1 inch for the nice sprocket and brake hubs that are readily available for 1 inch axles and not available for smaller such as 3/4 and 5/8 inch generally used with minibikes.
Thanks