minimum hp for running 4:1 ratio what worked for you
I personally never run my gear any numerically higher then 4.0. And that's with a 14" tall rear tire. I normally run in the 3.5 ratio area for 5" rim and tire. Then I run a 3.7 ratio for 6" rim and tire. But on my street bike since we race short city blocks it needs to have that 4.0 to get it up and running faster.
i'm kicking myself now over the title that it didn't narrow down the audience too much, LOL. I was reading through some dated material last night and the scope of these engines and getting them to go is amazing. That's just what I'm hoping to avoid/minimize going from a stock engine to something that's blown up without really getting any sort of handle of the mods that are done in between.
Hey MDb:
A bigger shop with more tools (yea in my dreams). Nah, but to the original question. I'm lookin at a 15t clutch and well I hope I don't get stuck down the road turn around and can't make it up the hill:doah: I know I'll probably have to look for more flats but was wondering with the basic hop ups (really just working off agk's basic tips menu) if i'll even get to ride much around the blocks.
A bigger shop with more tools (yea in my dreams). Nah, but to the original question. I'm lookin at a 15t clutch and well I hope I don't get stuck down the road turn around and can't make it up the hill:doah: I know I'll probably have to look for more flats but was wondering with the basic hop ups (really just working off agk's basic tips menu) if i'll even get to ride much around the blocks.
Motor, mods, your weight, rear tire height
Thanks for the quick reply:
The motor is the clone 6.5. As for the mods, I've pretty much stuck with what agk performance tips basic menu has listed except for porting: Affordable Go Karts - Performance Basics
I'm right around 170 and the rear tire I believe is ~14.25-14.375". This ratio (4:1) came to mind as I felt it would make for an interesting reach getting it to run well and still be reliable. Right now this is definitely a lot of fun but come six months from now and there's 6" of snow outside can't say that the maintenance level then will be what is is now.
Thanks for the quick reply:
The motor is the clone 6.5. As for the mods, I've pretty much stuck with what agk performance tips basic menu has listed except for porting: Affordable Go Karts - Performance Basics
I'm right around 170 and the rear tire I believe is ~14.25-14.375". This ratio (4:1) came to mind as I felt it would make for an interesting reach getting it to run well and still be reliable. Right now this is definitely a lot of fun but come six months from now and there's 6" of snow outside can't say that the maintenance level then will be what is is now.
Well that sounds cool
Your going faster than most of the guys on this site, and the motor should pull you pretty easy, no matter the hill. Most of the guys on this site run 12/60, so they blast out, but are only going about 20-30mph. While you would take off mid level, but run 10mph faster on top end.
Most of the 300+ lb guys run 4.0 gearing on there bikes with 5-6 inch rims with short tires. Yes we do have more power, but with you being so light it should work out pretty well with you.
Your going faster than most of the guys on this site, and the motor should pull you pretty easy, no matter the hill. Most of the guys on this site run 12/60, so they blast out, but are only going about 20-30mph. While you would take off mid level, but run 10mph faster on top end.
Most of the 300+ lb guys run 4.0 gearing on there bikes with 5-6 inch rims with short tires. Yes we do have more power, but with you being so light it should work out pretty well with you.
You nailed it. The 4.0 works well. Problem now is not enough straightaways, brakes, and frame length. But for just street cruising the ratio works well not having to ride full throttle anymore. Also still running the stock carb but the throttle arm insert broke off. The carb still works alright but it can't be seeing more of the speeds without it malfunctioning soon. Great advice to stick with this ratio instead of one higher. You know had to ask this question since coming on this board and still now the amount of emphasis given on higher gearing. For short blocks and trail rides makes complete sense but that's it.
Well a lot of new guys love the feel of the 12/60 or 12/72 gearing. They like the almost out of control blast off the line. That's why a lot of guys buy the TAV units and don't care as much for top end speed.
I'm just the opposite
I like more top speed, because we race, and ride longer distances. The extra power you get from mods get you off the line just as fast as the 12/60 gearing stock motor guys.
I'm just the opposite
I like more top speed, because we race, and ride longer distances. The extra power you get from mods get you off the line just as fast as the 12/60 gearing stock motor guys.
i think that's more fun than all out top speed. i'd rather max out at 55-60 and get that feeling than going 75 and have it be a bit meh.
that's why i loved the YZ490 that i had. it just had insane power and was either pulling the front wheel or spinning the rear when the power band hit. it would do this going into 3rd. it only had a 4spd and was just as quick as my friend's old '01 Buell M2 with cams, exhaust and a Mikuni on it.
that's why i loved the YZ490 that i had. it just had insane power and was either pulling the front wheel or spinning the rear when the power band hit. it would do this going into 3rd. it only had a 4spd and was just as quick as my friend's old '01 Buell M2 with cams, exhaust and a Mikuni on it.
Definitely not giving up the tav or higher gearing. But with the more hop ups and the bike getting more radical it's getting harder to ride unnoticed. Use to be could ride on and on around the block no problem. Now it's one or two laps then have to head over to the next subdivision and so on. But that's were the lower ratio comes in. That 1/4 mile stretch of open road riding between subdivisions used to seem long but not anymore.
In hindsight, the hp numbers mean a lot but it can only do so much without having the clutch dialed in. When tinkering with the clutch found it was not setup to engage correctly. It was too low. Sometimes something as trivial as a couple of springs can make it all fall into place. So in hindsight if could do it all over again would have just replaced the springs and kept the stock carb- it's a little under rated.
Well got the stock springs replaced, noram ge and it made a nice difference. With the increased tension getting off the line is much improved over the stockers. I learned something with this gearing/clutch setup that really had me confused taking apart the whole engine trying to figure it out - clutch chatter. I think when using the stock springs and carb and possibly because the drum surfaces needed a good scuffing is what caused the chattering. That must have been the most painful sound on a small engine i've heard.
Actually found a nice drag strip just minutes from home with open roads and fairly decent pavement. With the way the clutch is setup it makes a pretty good rocking chair throughout the curve. Running 4:1 gear ratio is definitely not asking too much at least on our engine so long as -it seems- the clutch stall and the engine rpm are on the same sheet of music.
Actually found a nice drag strip just minutes from home with open roads and fairly decent pavement. With the way the clutch is setup it makes a pretty good rocking chair throughout the curve. Running 4:1 gear ratio is definitely not asking too much at least on our engine so long as -it seems- the clutch stall and the engine rpm are on the same sheet of music.