Trick is to get it warmed up the first time and do all your carb adjustments, check for leaks and loose parts.
This talks about 15 minutes.
Don't let it idle take it for a gentle ride and observe temperature and operation, your looking for issues before they become a disaster.
Check oil too!!!!!
Next ride is about 1/2 an hour, get a load on the engine now.
Watch the temperature and blow by for anything excessive or abnormal noises.
Recheck everything again when cool, leaks loose parts re torque the head and case just to be safe, check lash.
Dump the oil, look at it, you should see some metal flakes that are very fine but no chunks or other foreign matter.
Refill with and get the engine up to temperature again put it under a normal load and work it for a while.
How long will it take to complete its break in? I can't say but about a tank of fuel is a good measure.
Observing the oil again in a few hours will show more fine metal but that's is going to decrease from here on.
The whole process should only take a few hours.
An engine with a plateau finish on the cylinder and high prescions parts and tolerances will break in very fast.
Those need a load on them as soon as they are warm.
Stuff machined by a beaver will take longer and need to be coddled to avoid damage and overheating.
Change oil often if it looks dirty it is.
If you see metal in it at first that's normal and it will taper off over time.
This talks about 15 minutes.
Don't let it idle take it for a gentle ride and observe temperature and operation, your looking for issues before they become a disaster.
Check oil too!!!!!
Next ride is about 1/2 an hour, get a load on the engine now.
Watch the temperature and blow by for anything excessive or abnormal noises.
Recheck everything again when cool, leaks loose parts re torque the head and case just to be safe, check lash.
Dump the oil, look at it, you should see some metal flakes that are very fine but no chunks or other foreign matter.
Refill with and get the engine up to temperature again put it under a normal load and work it for a while.
How long will it take to complete its break in? I can't say but about a tank of fuel is a good measure.
Observing the oil again in a few hours will show more fine metal but that's is going to decrease from here on.
The whole process should only take a few hours.
An engine with a plateau finish on the cylinder and high prescions parts and tolerances will break in very fast.
Those need a load on them as soon as they are warm.
Stuff machined by a beaver will take longer and need to be coddled to avoid damage and overheating.
Change oil often if it looks dirty it is.
If you see metal in it at first that's normal and it will taper off over time.
What does WFO mean?
I think I know what the F is and I can't use that word here...
I assume Wright F---- On?
Break in oil.
For this application I do not think its really needed.
If there was a cam with some heavy springs I might consider it.
Your local GM dealer has a product called GM engine oil supplement made for cam protection.
It was formulate to reduce wear at break in when added at 10% to oil.
Some people add it at every oil change to protect flat tappet cams in classic cars.
I think I know what the F is and I can't use that word here...
I assume Wright F---- On?
Break in oil.
For this application I do not think its really needed.
If there was a cam with some heavy springs I might consider it.
Your local GM dealer has a product called GM engine oil supplement made for cam protection.
It was formulate to reduce wear at break in when added at 10% to oil.
Some people add it at every oil change to protect flat tappet cams in classic cars.
Have had the pleasure of opening new predators myself just to find what I would consider a lot of metal !!!! Have also picked up a few that instantly leak oil from the side cover because the bolts are too long and bottom out before the gasket can seal . I don't buy them anymore I would personally rather have a used Honda