mrpat's 2016 OldMiniBikes Build Off - Vintage Class - Broncco TX2

[Havasu Dave]

Pat, This ignition option has been discussed several times here. Everyone says it can be done because someone on smoke stack said it could be.

So the only question I have, is how is this device setting timing at .065" before top dead center? (That is where your H35 needs to fire the spark plug)

These systems are designed to work off of magneto primary winding sensing, and the electronic unit fires the signal back to the magneto secondary winding for spark. I do not know if the points-type Tec magneto will accomplish this externally. I don't think so. So lets say you get the two wire or three leg magneto so you can trigger this thing:

How do you set the timing to the .065" of advance it needs to fire correctly? A degree wheel, a timing light, an electric drill with crank adapter, once you determine what degree of rotation .065" in the hole converts to.

For the price, it's worth giving it a try, but I can find no reason it "would" work, nor any indication that it has the ability to maintain, or handle timing adjustments.

You do not need to remove your flywheel after setting the timing on your Tecumseh. It is a very simple process to set it, although aging engine blocks tend to yield some of the book instructions moot. For example a .020 point gap at TDC doesn't always give you the required timing (points just start to open) at the prescribed (varies with Tec model) advance setting.

I'm here to help. Off line if needs be, or over the phone.

 

[mrpat]

Pat, This ignition option has been discussed several times here. Everyone says it can be done because someone on smoke stack said it could be.

So the only question I have, is how is this device setting timing at .065" before top dead center? (That is where your H35 needs to fire the spark plug)

These systems are designed to work off of magneto primary winding sensing, and the electronic unit fires the signal back to the magneto secondary winding for spark. I do not know if the points-type Tec magneto will accomplish this externally. I don't think so. So lets say you get the two wire or three leg magneto so you can trigger this thing:

How do you set the timing to the .065" of advance it needs to fire correctly? A degree wheel, a timing light, an electric drill with crank adapter, once you determine what degree of rotation .065" in the hole converts to.

For the price, it's worth giving it a try, but I can find no reason it "would" work, nor any indication that it has the ability to maintain, or handle timing adjustments.

You do not need to remove your flywheel after setting the timing on your Tecumseh. It is a very simple process to set it, although aging engine blocks tend to yield some of the book instructions moot. For example a .020 point gap at TDC doesn't always give you the required timing (points just start to open) at the prescribed (varies with Tec model) advance setting.

I'm here to help. Off line if needs be, or over the phone.

Thank you Dave. I just saw this thing and thought it was cool.

 

[Docdc]

Hi Mrpat,

As far as the plating. your opinion please. I have read that a battery tender could be used as a power source. Any thoughts??

Doc

 

[Havasu Dave]

Thank you Dave. I just saw this thing and thought it was cool.

I agree, it is cool. I like the points setup on Tecumseh's however. The guys putting the cams in the later model Tecumseh don't have an accurate way to advance timing per cam MFGR recommendations. The older points style engines will adjust.

Here is an earlier conversation that took place here- and anyone who knows Randi, knows that he's very savvy on engines.

As an aside, provided that Tec magneto is suitable, ( I don't think it is) your engine could be timed by setting it at TDC, then marking the flywheel at 6.5 degrees BTDC, then ensuring your magneto laminations passed the flywheel magnet at that point. (.010 inches per degree at 1.844" stroke- which happens during 180 degrees of rotation)

Not like I haven't thought about this stuff a lot...too much. Wanna use my home made degree wheel? LMAO! :laugh:

Seriously, it's way easier to time the thing with the points, and timed correctly, they run great.

 

[mrpat]

Hi Mrpat,

As far as the plating. your opinion please. I have read that a battery tender could be used as a power source. Any thoughts??

Doc

Hey Doc,

I tried my little battery "float charger" from harbor freight. The problem that I had was that if it doesn't detect a battery to charge, it just doesn't send juice down the line. So basically it just errors itself out. Yours might be different though. You could try it on an old bolt or something just to see, I don't think it would hurt anything.

You can also try a couple of "D" batteries hooked up in series. Maybe get 3 -4.5 volts?

Pat

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

I agree, it is cool. I like the points setup on Tecumseh's however. The guys putting the cams in the later model Tecumseh don't have an accurate way to advance timing per cam MFGR recommendations. The older points style engines will adjust.

Here is an earlier conversation that took place here- and anyone who knows Randi, knows that he's very savvy on engines.

As an aside, provided that Tec magneto is suitable, ( I don't think it is) your engine could be timed by setting it at TDC, then marking the flywheel at 6.5 degrees BTDC, then ensuring your magneto laminations passed the flywheel magnet at that point. (.010 inches per degree at 1.844" stroke- which happens during 180 degrees of rotation)

Not like I haven't thought about this stuff a lot...too much. Wanna use my home made degree wheel? LMAO! :laugh:

Seriously, it's way easier to time the thing with the points, and timed correctly, they run great.

Dave, you bring up good points. Since you mentioned probably having to swap coils that might mean the original shroud won't work defeating the whole purpose. I hope it does work for Pat. After thinking a bit, I remember seeing these things on garden tractors (of all things). For the price, it might be worth a shot--nothing really lost by checking the thing out except time and cash!:smile:

 

[mrpat]

Dave, you bring up good points. Since you mentioned probably having to swap coils that might mean the original shroud won't work defeating the whole purpose. I hope it does work for Pat. After thinking a bit, I remember seeing these things on garden tractors (of all things). For the price, it might be worth a shot--nothing really lost by checking the thing out except time and cash!:smile:

Thank you both for the comments. I will probably go ahead and install the points and condenser and be done with it, but I am going to order the one from Amazon just to try it. It's only 15 bucks and it would be cool to see if it really will work.

 

[mrpat]

Look what Karl found me! Thank you to Not so mini.

Someone has it painted black with a couple of yellow stripes on it. I need to try a few tricks to get the paint off of the plastic.

 

[bikebudy]

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

Look what Karl found me! Thank you to Not so mini.

Someone has it painted black with a couple of yellow stripes on it. I need to try a few tricks to get the paint off of the plastic.

Try carb cleaner first, then maybe some acetone (it'll soften the plastic some if you leave it on too long--but it'll restore the surface). BTW, Karl hooked me up with big metal thingy with wheels the tool kit was attached to!:laugh:

 

[mrpat]

Try carb cleaner first, then maybe some acetone (it'll soften the plastic some if you leave it on too long--but it'll restore the surface). BTW, Karl hooked me up with big metal thingy with wheels the tool kit was attached to!:laugh:

Thank you sir. We have acetone at work, and carb cleaner in the garage. I will give it a try.

 

[Havasu Dave]

Pat, and old hot rodding trick is to use brake fluid to remove paint from plastic. That applies to grills mostly. Depending on the plastic, regular crappy ACE brand paint stripper will also work. I have been using the same plastic drain pan for paint stripping operations for years. Apply a test bit of stripper and be ready to wipe it. Otherwise brake fluid works.

 

[mrpat]

Pat, and old hot rodding trick is to use brake fluid to remove paint from plastic. That applies to grills mostly. Depending on the plastic, regular crappy ACE brand paint stripper will also work. I have been using the same plastic drain pan for paint stripping operations for years. Apply a test bit of stripper and be ready to wipe it. Otherwise brake fluid works.

Thanks Dave! I also have brake fluid in the garage. I was just afraid to be too aggressive with any kind of paint removing chemical because I don't want it to melt the plastic.

Pat

 

[mrpat]

I was just starting to clean up the forks when I noticed that the chrome lowers are tweaked just a little bit. I will have to take them to work and hopefully one of the guys can help me figure out how to get it back in shape. Looks like someone might have just barely touched a curb or something. They are both are bowed about 1/16" which isn't terrible, but they won't fit smoothly in the uppers. You just never know what's around the next corner.

 

[manchester1]

I used stripper on a plastic CAT gas tank and the paint Jumped off the tank.:laugh: I tried all that other stuff first and wasted a lot of time. I couldn't believe how great it came out. Pictures shortly.:thumbsup:

 

[mrpat]

I used stripper on a plastic CAT gas tank and the paint Jumped off the tank.:laugh: I tried all that other stuff first and wasted a lot of time. I couldn't believe how great it came out. Pictures shortly.:thumbsup:

Thanks for the tip Karen!

 

[buckeye]

I found the same issue with mine too.
I just layed it on a flat surface. Rolled it until I saw the high spot and smacked it with a maul.
Well, tap,tap, tapped it. Just like straightening out a bent femur.:laugh:
Certainly not as nice as yours will be but, they work great.
Gotta do what ya gotta do.:laugh:

 

[manchester1]

I worked on getting the blue paint off of this tank for over a hour with different stuff. Didn't even budge the paint. I then used the home-depot stripper and it worked amazing. I didn't even leave the stuff on for 5 minutes and the paint came right off.:thumbsup:

 

[mrpat]

Wow Karen, that cleaned up really nice:thumbsup:

 

[Dr. Shop Teacher]

Pat, I had the same issue with bowed forks on my Manco T-bird. We just heated them up and they sprung right back to original shape. At worst, it's ten minutes of lost time if it doesn't work.