OHH60 Power Sport Lighting Coil Question
Bikebudy,
I pulled the flywheel today using the technique on the video you provided! It took all of 5 mins! Thanks so much.
As you can see in the picture the block has the two threaded bores for mounting the stator. So that helps! No magnets were found on the back side of the flywheel.
Tmack1
I hope this picture helps for your kit!
Hec
I pulled the flywheel today using the technique on the video you provided! It took all of 5 mins! Thanks so much.
As you can see in the picture the block has the two threaded bores for mounting the stator. So that helps! No magnets were found on the back side of the flywheel.
Tmack1
I hope this picture helps for your kit!
Hec
Hi Hec,
I got your PM's, Sorry for slow replies. I don't get on a computer as much as I use to.
First, your pict is a std non-lighted flywheel. That's is expected. Next, it shows the holes already in the block to mount the stator, which saves time. Next, the shroud backing plate is the std non-lighted backing plate and will need a slight trim so the wires clear. If you look at the earlier reply, you can to see what I mean, it has a different backing plate.
As to the PM, yea, a 7 amp unit would work better, but they all require a voltage regulator, and normally have different magnets. Basically, they make higher voltage (20 to 30v), then regulate it down.
My kit was designed for the Rupp lights which were lower wattage. ( Dual filament 15w/15w, 4 1/2" diameter bulb). It uses the 3 amp stator like shown in an early reply.
What I did on my snowblower (7hp OHH snowking), I got a "Tractor Supply" (For Life Out Here | Tractor Supply Co.) light in a rubberized housing. It had a 30w bulb and didn't light up too well. So..... Home Depot has 11w landscape floodlight bulbs (sealed beam, glass bulb) that fit in the housing perfectly (also fits the Rupp Roadster housing) and works nicely.
So, what you do is determined by what your plans are for the Minibike.
- If you are going to ride down the roads at night, you need a headlight bulb for the distance. I could sell you two sets of magnets (cheaper than buying full kit), you use that 7amp unit you talked about in the PM. You would have to experiment with spacing (like I originally did for the Rupp's) to get a output that meets your needs. The benefit to doing this, is you would have 12v DC and could charge a battery to run the lights just in case the engine stalls.
- If you're going to do trails at night, then the 11w floodlight is better since it lights up a wider area and you can see the turns better. My full kit would work.
To answer the PM about the kits, I need to tweak the instructions for the OHV engines. Basically change some pictures around. I may get to it this weekend, just have to deliver a Broncco TX-1 Deluxe I got running for a friend.
EDIT: just looked at my Speedway Greenhorn headlight. It uses a 4420 12v 5 3/4"bulb. The web says it's a 30w/30w dual filament. My HS50 has what looks like the same lighting coil as a Rupp HS40. At idle it is dim. As speed it works but I haven't played too much at night yet.
I got your PM's, Sorry for slow replies. I don't get on a computer as much as I use to.
First, your pict is a std non-lighted flywheel. That's is expected. Next, it shows the holes already in the block to mount the stator, which saves time. Next, the shroud backing plate is the std non-lighted backing plate and will need a slight trim so the wires clear. If you look at the earlier reply, you can to see what I mean, it has a different backing plate.
As to the PM, yea, a 7 amp unit would work better, but they all require a voltage regulator, and normally have different magnets. Basically, they make higher voltage (20 to 30v), then regulate it down.
My kit was designed for the Rupp lights which were lower wattage. ( Dual filament 15w/15w, 4 1/2" diameter bulb). It uses the 3 amp stator like shown in an early reply.
What I did on my snowblower (7hp OHH snowking), I got a "Tractor Supply" (For Life Out Here | Tractor Supply Co.) light in a rubberized housing. It had a 30w bulb and didn't light up too well. So..... Home Depot has 11w landscape floodlight bulbs (sealed beam, glass bulb) that fit in the housing perfectly (also fits the Rupp Roadster housing) and works nicely.
So, what you do is determined by what your plans are for the Minibike.
- If you are going to ride down the roads at night, you need a headlight bulb for the distance. I could sell you two sets of magnets (cheaper than buying full kit), you use that 7amp unit you talked about in the PM. You would have to experiment with spacing (like I originally did for the Rupp's) to get a output that meets your needs. The benefit to doing this, is you would have 12v DC and could charge a battery to run the lights just in case the engine stalls.
- If you're going to do trails at night, then the 11w floodlight is better since it lights up a wider area and you can see the turns better. My full kit would work.
To answer the PM about the kits, I need to tweak the instructions for the OHV engines. Basically change some pictures around. I may get to it this weekend, just have to deliver a Broncco TX-1 Deluxe I got running for a friend.
EDIT: just looked at my Speedway Greenhorn headlight. It uses a 4420 12v 5 3/4"bulb. The web says it's a 30w/30w dual filament. My HS50 has what looks like the same lighting coil as a Rupp HS40. At idle it is dim. As speed it works but I haven't played too much at night yet.
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Another question,
The TEC 3amp stator has two wires coming out of it. Green and Red. I am assuming the red is wired to the lights and the green is wired to the kill switch ground. My research shows that the red wire has a diode wired in series between the stator and the wiring plug. Since I don't have a battery, could I remove the diode to take advantage of the the entire AC sine wave?
I have found a flywheel with 3 magnets for an OHH60. It has a starter ring gear. How hard is it to remove the ring gear?
Hec
The TEC 3amp stator has two wires coming out of it. Green and Red. I am assuming the red is wired to the lights and the green is wired to the kill switch ground. My research shows that the red wire has a diode wired in series between the stator and the wiring plug. Since I don't have a battery, could I remove the diode to take advantage of the the entire AC sine wave?
I have found a flywheel with 3 magnets for an OHH60. It has a starter ring gear. How hard is it to remove the ring gear?
Hec
All,
Got all the parts needed to add lighting to my OHH60.
Parts used:
* Tecumseh 611113 Stator
* Tecumseh Air Baffle Left 36621 & Right 37709 to replace original backing plate
* Tecumseh OHH60 Flywheel with 3 magnets. I removed the ring gear on it. Thanks Bike Buddy for the removal tip.
I will need to make a small square hole on the backside of the backing plate for the insulated plastic mounting plug that the ground from the kill switch and coil mounted to on the old backing plate.
Thanks to all who helped with this. This engine will be installed in the Azuza side car project on Memorial Weekend. Getting all my parts back from powder coating this week. Almost done!
Hec
Got all the parts needed to add lighting to my OHH60.
Parts used:
* Tecumseh 611113 Stator
* Tecumseh Air Baffle Left 36621 & Right 37709 to replace original backing plate
* Tecumseh OHH60 Flywheel with 3 magnets. I removed the ring gear on it. Thanks Bike Buddy for the removal tip.
I will need to make a small square hole on the backside of the backing plate for the insulated plastic mounting plug that the ground from the kill switch and coil mounted to on the old backing plate.
Thanks to all who helped with this. This engine will be installed in the Azuza side car project on Memorial Weekend. Getting all my parts back from powder coating this week. Almost done!
Hec
