Old Style Carburetor Rebuild - NEED HELP

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redfarmer84

New Member
#1
#1
Guys, know where I can find a How-To on the rebuild of the older style B&S carb. It is the one with the pull choke and it doesn't have a bowl. I think it is commonly referred to as the "3 hole carb". I have looked on the internet using those search terms and have found nothing. I stopped at a local engine shop last week and got a rebuild kit for it. They guy assumed he knew which one I had and pulled the kit from the back. A kit number would be nice too so I could make sure I have the correct one. I know a bit about carburetors, but having a "how-to" with steps and pictures for the specific one I am working on is ALWAYS a plus. Hope to work on the carburetor this evening after work! Only 1 hour left!!!

Thanks so much!
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#2
#2
to be honest there isn't much to rebuild on those carbs.. pull the diaphragm out, pull the needle and jet out... flush the carb out good with carb cleaner and compressed air... Check to see if the throttle shaft will wiggle side to side, if so it should be replaced.... Make sure the pick up tubes are clean and in good shape with the screens on the ends... then reverse procedure with installation of the parts... That's a typical rebuild.... Those carbs are pretty simple... also make sure the choke is tight and doesn't slide out without a little tug...
 
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redfarmer84

New Member
#3
#3
what is the best method for removal and reinstallation with the 2 horizontal screws? I took it off and it was a pain to get those two loose. I can only imagine it will be much worse putting them back on. I figured there is a trick and/or a special tool/screwdriver to do it. THANKS!
 
125ccCrazy

125ccCrazy

Well-Known Member
#4
#4
redfarmer84 said:
what is the best method for removal and reinstallation with the 2 horizontal screws? I took it off and it was a pain to get those two loose. I can only imagine it will be much worse putting them back on. I figured there is a trick and/or a special tool/screwdriver to do it. THANKS!
Click to expand...
a pic would help, I'm not sure what screws your referring two,, there are 4 on the diaphargm cover and one for the throttle arm... maybe were not on the same page as to what carb you have?.....
 
smwtnbndr

smwtnbndr

Member
#5
#5
I had some luck at the library with old small engine books. Some I the libraries still have old stuff hanging around. Good luck.
 
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redfarmer84

New Member
#6
#6
smwtnbndr said:
I had some luck at the library with old small engine books. Some I the libraries still have old stuff hanging around. Good luck.
Click to expand...
It has the pull out plunger for the choke, 3 screws to hold carb to top of gas tank (where pickup tubes are), and 2 bolts hold it at the flange on the engine (they go in horizontally and the others go in vertically). I am talking about the 2 horizontal bolts. I got it back on, so it's taken care of. I didn't see a "jet", only the small idle? screw with a point on it. I took it out and also the seat and cleaned that area.

The bike still spits and sputters on about every 3 or 4th pull, so I have other problems apparently. Filled the gas tank and also poured ether and gas in the carb. Nothing but a "pop". ahhh.. Gonna take the flywheel back off and investivate...
 
butch63

butch63

New Member
#9
#9
125ccCrazy said:
to be honest there isn't much to rebuild on those carbs.. pull the diaphragm out, pull the needle and jet out... flush the carb out good with carb cleaner and compressed air... Check to see if the throttle shaft will wiggle side to side, if so it should be replaced.... Make sure the pick up tubes are clean and in good shape with the screens on the ends... then reverse procedure with installation of the parts... That's a typical rebuild.... Those carbs are pretty simple... also make sure the choke is tight and doesn't slide out without a little tug...
Click to expand...
is there a way to tighten the pull out chock? mine slides in & out alittle to freely???:scared:
 
C

cashman

New Member
#10
#10
I think you were talking about the two bolts that hold the carb to the block? I've always used a flat screwdriver holding it at a 90 degree angle to the bolt head placing it in the slots to loosen or tighten. It's best to always use two gaskets between the carb and tank. If you don't, you could run into a fuel pickup problem. Vibration every time the engine fires can diminish the distance between the bottom of the tank and the pickup tube. Briggs put out a service bulletin on that years ago.
 
WrenchDad

WrenchDad

Active Member
#12
#12
What size HP is this Briggs? I had a 2hp with what sounds like the same carb that did exactly the same thing and I never did get it to start and run smooth. I also thought maybe it was electrical and pulled the fly wheel and checked points and timing advance and all that stuff. My advice is: stay away from that stuff until your sure it's not carb related. My guess is that it either has debris some where in the pick up tube or in the breather holes (behind the needle jet seat) and thay are Tiny I'mean WTF tiny. Or you have a leak in your gasket somewhere or diaphram. good luck
 
hemigremmy

hemigremmy

New Member
#13
#13
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/b...s/59393-tech-trueing-your-diaphram-cover.html

Here is a link to a tech thing I did about trueing up the carb diaphram cover, also once you pull your diaphram cover off take a small piece of wire and waller around in the hole in the carb to clean any junk out of them. Use brake clean and compressed are to clean any debris out of all the passages before you start to reassemble the carb. For the REALLY small passages in the Jet you can burn the paper off of a bread tie and use the wire to run through stuff like that. When I rebuilt my carb I had lots of issues upon starting with no luck, finally Ii backed the jet screw out almost all the way and started pulling a couple times and in a half turn of adjustment...pull....adjust in....pull....adjust in....and REPEAT. Pull the plug out and dump a pop bottle cap full of gas in the plug hole and quickly get the plug back in and get to pulling and adjusting. Hold the throttle wide open if possible while pulling on the string. Once it starts feather the throttle to keep running and warming it up, then once it's good and warm close the choke and let it idle down. If the idle is fine throttle up slowly until you get to wide open (USE YOUR HEAD not to blow your motor up) or until it starts sputtering. when it starts sputtering hold it there and adjust the screw in a 1/4-1/2 turn, if it gets worse back it out 1/4-1/2 turn and see if that helps. You will eventually get it running in the sweet spot and all will be good, then adjust your idle screw to where you want it.
Here is a link to www.partstree.com of a 5 hp briggs carb for a motor that I have all the info on....
Parts and Diagrams for Briggs and Stratton 130202-0592-99
You can look up your motor with all exploded views on there you just go to the briggs logo that is at the bottom of the page and you need your..........
Model # (mine was 130202)
Type # (mine was 0592 02) When you put the Type # in the last two digits will be 99 no mater what yours are....just how they do it on that site.
and I don't think you need the Code # (mine was 77111106) the first two digits is the year of your motor

Hope this helps you out some, prices on that site can be fairly high sometimes but it does have nice exploded views and REAL part numbers for everything you will want to order.
GOOD LUCK and let us know how it goes for you!!
 
C

chazdaddy

New Member
#14
#14
Hello redfarmer84,

Concerning the 2 screws that bolt the carb manifold to the block: I usually remove the muffler and blower housing so I can get to the bolts. They are hard to deal with, but after you have removed and reinstalled them a few times it will not be a big deal anymore.

Good luck on your carb. Often, these carbs are hard to get right at 1st. You just have to keep working on it until to runs. Once you have your issue solved, the carb will work great.
 
T

the beekeeper

Active Member
#15
#15
Providing you have good spark, you might try a few squirts of oil or trans fluid into the cyl, leave the plug out and gently spin it over a couple of times to get the oil to the rings, install the plug and hit the carb with a little starting fluid, see if it will fire.............................Tom.
 
The Restore Kid

The Restore Kid

New Member
#16
#16
I think between randi and everyone they got ya covered.. MAKE SURE TO DO THE TRUING THING!!!

You gotta run your diaphragm cover over a file and make sure it is absolutely flat because there needs to be a perfect seal around the 3 different chambers in that thing and as small as everything is and the fact it's aluminum, about %92 of the time, that diaphragm cover is either not quite right, or just totally destroyed..

I've seen countless covers, especially the older engines, the older the engine, the more people have screwed screws down too tight and warped stuff.. I've ground on diaphragm covers for 1/2 hour trying to flatten them out, and by time you're done, it looks like a sheet of paper... :doah:

Then also grind the carb face flat too, where it meets the engine block, it will bend and warp there and cause an air leak.. Then check the surface of the carb where it goes from carb to gas tank.. Yet ANOTHER very thin flat wide soft aluminum surface which will warp, and cause gas to leak from between the carb and tank.. :glare:

Grind EVERYTHING flat.. all mating aluminum surfaces, ground flat.. :mellow:

THEN clean the carb, :laugh: check the throttle shaft for play, all the other stuff that is required in a rebuild...

No wait... Check the throttle shaft first.. If it is super wobbly just junk the prick.. :laugh:
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The distance between the pickup tube and bottom of the tank is new to me.. :eek:hmy: Thats a gemerald of a bit of information to have.. Makes sense though.. :shrug:
 
R

redfarmer84

New Member
#17
#17
Hey guys. Sorry for such a late response on this. I have determined that I have a pulsa-jet carburetor with the slide out choke. I'm going to try a rebuild this week with new kit and new pickup tubes.
 
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