Are you trying to save the original paint? If so I'm trying to do the same on one of my cat eliminator's. PEELER B/C-C/C REMOVER 18-OZ AEROSOL CAN
this is what I was told to get.
this is what I was told to get.
I use chemical paint stripper. First couple of coats I use a scraper. Then I move on to rubber gloves and course steel wool, where I scrub the frame essentially with working stripper. I then use more steel wool and scrub the frame down with soap and water.
I then inspect for flaws, or address any fabrication or weld issues I've been looking at along the way. Dress it up, then a final sanding job by hand, followed by a soap and water wipe down, followed by an acetone wipe down. Then tack cloth, then primer, depending on the duration it will remain in primer, and depending on what top coats I'll be using.
This method allows me to retain control of the restoration/modification with a hands-on approach. I get to see the layers of old paint, down to original in many cases for a color match. I get to see what primer (usually none) was used in the period, any welding errors, (I get off on seeing bits of MIG wire stuck beneath original paint) and a play by play rewind of history.
If this doesn't appeal to you, get it blasted. It's easier, less time consuming, less messy if you don't have the room. Heck, you can even pay someone to powder coat it afterwards, and avoid even being involved with the frame.
I wont speak for all powder coaters out there, but if I were applying PC and getting paid for my time, I'd have it blasted, period, because any missed paint will bubble in the oven. With PC, any substrate can cause an otherwise good application to look bad, and no one wants a reputation like that.
Since I paint my own frames, I have no concerns or questions about the stripping or preparation I've done before painting.
I then inspect for flaws, or address any fabrication or weld issues I've been looking at along the way. Dress it up, then a final sanding job by hand, followed by a soap and water wipe down, followed by an acetone wipe down. Then tack cloth, then primer, depending on the duration it will remain in primer, and depending on what top coats I'll be using.
This method allows me to retain control of the restoration/modification with a hands-on approach. I get to see the layers of old paint, down to original in many cases for a color match. I get to see what primer (usually none) was used in the period, any welding errors, (I get off on seeing bits of MIG wire stuck beneath original paint) and a play by play rewind of history.
If this doesn't appeal to you, get it blasted. It's easier, less time consuming, less messy if you don't have the room. Heck, you can even pay someone to powder coat it afterwards, and avoid even being involved with the frame.
I wont speak for all powder coaters out there, but if I were applying PC and getting paid for my time, I'd have it blasted, period, because any missed paint will bubble in the oven. With PC, any substrate can cause an otherwise good application to look bad, and no one wants a reputation like that.
Since I paint my own frames, I have no concerns or questions about the stripping or preparation I've done before painting.
If you do go with media blasting, just make sure that you do you home work 1st. There is a BIG difference in media blasters. You don't want the guy that has been blasting dump trucks all day at 200 psi using black beauty. By comparison, we blast at 40 psi using crushed glass (which is the size of table salt), as we focus on media blasting complete classic cars.
More informative info. on our site here, if you are interested in learning: Choosing a Blaster - Classic Car Sandblasting
If you go this route, feel free to ask questions, I can help you find someone local to you.
Regards,
Phil
More informative info. on our site here, if you are interested in learning: Choosing a Blaster - Classic Car Sandblasting
If you go this route, feel free to ask questions, I can help you find someone local to you.
Regards,
Phil
That black beauty stuff is like shooting rocks at it...sparks actually fly off the metal and it leaves an awful "fuzzy" finish on the surface. My friend used to put it in his blast cabinet and use it on intake manifolds and stuff, I hated it. Would burn right through the gloves and hurt like hell. I don't think I would even use it on a dump truck.
I just use manual stripping techniques. Sand paper, wire brush attachments on drills, hand tools that scrape. Last time I used a stripper I sprayed a thick layer of it on a frame in the garage with the door open a good deal of the time. In a room above the garage we have a fish tank and within hours the water got cloudy and casualties began to mount. I think the breezy blew those fumes right up through the ceiling and through the floor into that tank. That scared me into not messing with that stuff anymore. I favored hand stripping anyway but that one time I was looking to speed things up.
