Quality Battery Cables

FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#1
#1
I am in the process of rewiring my Ford 601 Workmaster tractor. I have everything in hand except really good battery cables. I want a cable that has a flat end that is crimped not a copper tube end that is mashed flat and punched for a hole. A factory quality cable in other words. I know somebody has to have a source for good cables.

Thanks,

Doug
 
chrisr

chrisr

Well-Known Member
#5
#5
If you have a local circle track or welding supply shop in your town they would probably have the heavy duty battery cable (welding cable) per foot and you just use solder and a torch to add the ends. I have done many race cars this way and saved a lot of money vs buying pre-made cables.
 
CarPlayLB

CarPlayLB

Well-Known Member
#6
#6
I have used welding cable with a copper crimped end with great results. I have done everything from Jeeps to low rider hydraulics...without failure. I use a dielectric grease inside the terminal and a heat shrink with a hot glue liner, after I crimp the end. Sold 2000 feet of cable this way!
 
neo71665

neo71665

Member
#7
#7
I build all my battery cables with welding cable and crimped ends. The 2 places I mainly go to for parts.

Arthurs Tractors – Specializing in Vintage Ford Tractor Parts, Repair and Restorations

https://www.steinertractor.com/brand-ford.aspx

Sometimes you can jump over on N series sites and find something useful. We share some of the same parts or they can be made to work. They have a bigger following so more repop stuff.

Gotta like those old fords. I got a 1958 841 with a sherman OD and dad has a 1957 851. They are powermasters but the same family. Just wish they were diesel but they are solid.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#9
#9
neo71665 said:
I build all my battery cables with welding cable and crimped ends. The 2 places I mainly go to for parts.

Arthurs Tractors – Specializing in Vintage Ford Tractor Parts, Repair and Restorations

https://www.steinertractor.com/brand-ford.aspx

Sometimes you can jump over on N series sites and find something useful. We share some of the same parts or they can be made to work. They have a bigger following so more repop stuff.

Gotta like those old fords. I got a 1958 841 with a sherman OD and dad has a 1957 851. They are powermasters but the same family. Just wish they were diesel but they are solid.
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Thanks neo! Aurthurs Tractors is a good site.

My 601 was put together by a friend to keep as his personal tractor but he needed money and I got it. He had changed it from a 4 speed to a 5 speed which is a big plus to me. He also converted his brothers 801 from gas to diesel and the 172 out of the 801 is now in my 601. Its a little bit of the best of the parts he had on hand.

I am doing the finish work on it as he is not a finish guy. He is a "that's good enough" guy... Someone had used Romex to wire the headlights and wire nuts under the dash for connectors. I am going to pull all that junk and make a proper wiring harness for it. It already has been converted to 12 volts which I like.

I am picking away at the systems one by one until it I get it finished. Fuel petcock was leaking so the fuel system is first. The battery cables are being addressed because the old ones were junk and the battery was wrong. So a new battery, cables and hold down get that in hand.

A friend is going to take the carburetor to work and ultrasonically clean it. I bought a comprehensive kit for it so it should be as close to new as I can get it.

Doug
 
neo71665

neo71665

Member
#10
#10
Mine was my grandpa's tractor. It was gone over and a working resto when I was a teen. All the seals and wear items that need to be replaced was and we painted it up nice.

Dad's was a buddy's of our that had started to fix it up but got in over his head. A hodge podge of mix matched parts. We are slowly fixing it up right as we gather the correct stuff. The old man seemed to think the 800 and 801 body parts would bolt on swap and when they didn't he would hammer them to fit so its kinda a mess. It does run strong even still has the 6 volt system.

Be real careful on the fuel systems. Dad almost burnt it and himself up a few years back trying to jerry rig stuff. The few bucks he saved trying not to use the correct petcock cost him a new gas tank, had to make a new wiring harness, a new carb, and he still had to buy the correct petcock.
 
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Outlaw Ace

Outlaw Ace

#11
#11
I make my own cables with my crimper and use high quality wire and connectors and also heat shrink tubing in certain applications. The gold plated crap is just that, use copper connectors where possible and solder after crimping where possible also apply a spot of dielectric grease at each connection. I've worked with 12v electrical accessories for years, my first real job was installing car stereos and I still dabble in it. Do not skimp on quality unless you want to do it again soon. I still rewire and repair large 4X4 truck and trailer winches, I use car audio 2 to 4 gauge wire depending on the application. Best to redo something like your project only the once, by doing it right you will ensure years of dependable service.
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#12
#12
neo71665 said:
Mine was my grandpa's tractor. It was gone over and a working resto when I was a teen. All the seals and wear items that need to be replaced was and we painted it up nice.

Dad's was a buddy's of our that had started to fix it up but got in over his head. A hodge podge of mix matched parts. We are slowly fixing it up right as we gather the correct stuff. The old man seemed to think the 800 and 801 body parts would bolt on swap and when they didn't he would hammer them to fit so its kinda a mess. It does run strong even still has the 6 volt system.

Be real careful on the fuel systems. Dad almost burnt it and himself up a few years back trying to jerry rig stuff. The few bucks he saved trying not to use the correct petcock cost him a new gas tank, had to make a new wiring harness, a new carb, and he still had to buy the correct petcock.
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First thing I did was take the carb off and order the kit for it along with a new petcock. I don't take fuel for granted. I make my own hard line fuel lines. Properly bent and double flared. Single flare would suffice but I prefer the better double flare on everything I do. This is why I do fuel first. Then on to the next thing which in this case is the cables. The positive cable had a raw spot rubbed in it and the negative cable is 48'' long literally. It only needs 15 to 18 inches of cable.

Outlaw Ace said:
I make my own cables with my crimper and use high quality wire and connectors and also heat shrink tubing in certain applications. The gold plated crap is just that, use copper connectors where possible and solder after crimping where possible also apply a spot of dielectric grease at each connection. I've worked with 12v electrical accessories for years, my first real job was installing car stereos and I still dabble in it. Do not skimp on quality unless you want to do it again soon. I still rewire and repair large 4X4 truck and trailer winches, I use car audio 2 to 4 gauge wire depending on the application. Best to redo something like your project only the once, by doing it right you will ensure years of dependable service.
Click to expand...
I agree with you completely. I am going to use 2AWG cables and all 3 are only 15'' long each so I don't see the need to go heavier. They are properly assembled and the ends sealed with sealing heat shrink.

Doug
 
Outlaw Ace

Outlaw Ace

#13
#13
Yeah, anything worth doing is well worth doing right the first time you do or redo something if at all possible. I'm an overbuilder but cannot argue with your choice of cable gauge, it would be mine also and is my preferred wire for most battery applications concerning stock machines. Sounds like you got it well figured out.




I agree with you completely. I am going to use 2AWG cables and all 3 are only 15'' long each so I don't see the need to go heavier. They are properly assembled and the ends sealed with sealing heat shrink.

Doug[/QUOTE]
 
FOMOGO

FOMOGO

#14
#14
Outlaw Ace said:
Yeah, anything worth doing is well worth doing right the first time you do or redo something if at all possible. I'm an overbuilder but cannot argue with your choice of cable gauge, it would be mine also and is my preferred wire for most battery applications concerning stock machines. Sounds like you got it well figured out.




I agree with you completely. I am going to use 2AWG cables and all 3 are only 15'' long each so I don't see the need to go heavier. They are properly assembled and the ends sealed with sealing heat shrink.

Doug
Click to expand...
[/QUOTE]

I will never be out of sight of the shop as I only have 8 1/4 acres BUT I hate working on something in the field..... You never have exactly what you need.

I had a friend in the Auto Repair business and he always said that you better fix it right the first time because you don't make any money the second time. I have always followed this rule even long before I meet him. I don't mind fitting something multiple times but once I am done I don't want to work on it again.

I am an over builder myself. I like stuff to be strong and stand up to use and abuse.

Doug
 
neo71665

neo71665

Member
#15
#15
He he I'm mr overkill, I have 1/0 on everything I change the cables on.


A few years ago the place I was doing some work for was forced to replace their welding leads so I got 160 feet (4 40 foot cables)of the stuff for free. It has a few nicks in the insulation but nothing that can't be worked around. It was back before the price of copper skyrocketed and they came to us electricians on the job and asked if we wanted it. Needless to say I was on it like white on rice, one of the very few times I'll thank OSHA. I have the best 20 foot long booster cables also.
 
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