Have any pictures? The clutch is usually held in place by a bolt and washer on the outside of the clutch, on the end of the crank shaft. Then two set screws, one over the key and the other maybe 45 degrees off that. If you have all three out and still not budging.......maybe someone else can help.
DAN
DAN
A gear puller will most likely ruin the clutch. Especially if it is just good old rusted on... Then again.. If it's that bd it may not survive coming of any ways...
There are ways.. You can wedge them off but DAMN I do not recommend it.. Unless you are VERY VERY careful.. and have years experience beating on stuff.. :laugh: That is like the perfect way to ruin your engine and still not get the clutch off.. :angry:
There are ways.. You can wedge them off but DAMN I do not recommend it.. Unless you are VERY VERY careful.. and have years experience beating on stuff.. :laugh: That is like the perfect way to ruin your engine and still not get the clutch off.. :angry:
AKA wedge it off... Thats a great way to take out a crank seal and or whole case cover.. 
hmy:
You actually want use DAMN GOOD 5/8 or 3/4 inch (your crank bore size) open end wrenches, as there is no spread to them, and it will stay in between the ridge and object yu want to push off much better than the standard pickle fork... Same idea, only more precise...
But then you STILL need to get room for the stuff to go in there.. :doah: Pushing them off works real well.. But you better BE DAMNED CAREFUL!!!!! about doing so... ONE imperfect whack, and you just ruined an engine.. :mellow:
hmy:You actually want use DAMN GOOD 5/8 or 3/4 inch (your crank bore size) open end wrenches, as there is no spread to them, and it will stay in between the ridge and object yu want to push off much better than the standard pickle fork... Same idea, only more precise...
But then you STILL need to get room for the stuff to go in there.. :doah: Pushing them off works real well.. But you better BE DAMNED CAREFUL!!!!! about doing so... ONE imperfect whack, and you just ruined an engine.. :mellow:
AKA wedge it off... Thats a great way to take out a crank seal and or whole case cover.. hmy:
You actually want use DAMN GOOD 5/8 or 3/4 inch (your crank bore size) open end wrenches, as there is no spread to them, and it will stay in between the ridge and object yu want to push off much better than the standard pickle fork... Same idea, only more precise...
But then you STILL need to get room for the stuff to go in there.. :doah: Pushing them off works real well.. But you better BE DAMNED CAREFUL!!!!! about doing so... ONE imperfect whack, and you just ruined an engine.. :mellow:
hmy:You actually want use DAMN GOOD 5/8 or 3/4 inch (your crank bore size) open end wrenches, as there is no spread to them, and it will stay in between the ridge and object yu want to push off much better than the standard pickle fork... Same idea, only more precise...
But then you STILL need to get room for the stuff to go in there.. :doah: Pushing them off works real well.. But you better BE DAMNED CAREFUL!!!!! about doing so... ONE imperfect whack, and you just ruined an engine.. :mellow:
The only perfect answer is cut it off really.. But thats a guaranteed dead clutch.. :laugh:
Is the clutch mounted inboard or outboard?
Also.. getting the set screws out and filling the holes and all over te clutch crank area with like PB Blaster, and letting it sit for a while helps a lot too if it's gummed/rusted on..
Is the clutch mounted inboard or outboard?
Also.. getting the set screws out and filling the holes and all over te clutch crank area with like PB Blaster, and letting it sit for a while helps a lot too if it's gummed/rusted on..
Yesterday I had to remove a clutch that was rusted onto the shaft of a 5 HP Briggs. It quickly became evident that tapping with a brass hammer and wedging against the block was not going to work. It was stuck as badly as any I have ever seen so I used plan B. A split bearing/gear puller is positioned behind the clutch drum and a big killer size regular puller pulls on it. The pictured method never ruins the clutch that, as noted in a previous post, will be a for sure result if only a regular puller is used. That tool rests evenly on the back side of the clutch drum and doesn't distort and ruin it. I took the second pic of the pullers to show what they look like. Even if these tools are sorta junky I am lucky to own them. But almost all auto shops, truck shops and lots of maintenance departments will have such items.
I ran into a similar situation just last night trying to get the clutch off that engine I got with the kart. I had never used a 3-jaw before and didn't realize I was actually bending the clutch bell before it was even moving it off the crank. Let's just say that by the time I was done, i had clutch shoes on the floor of the garage all separated from each other.hmy::laugh:
hmy::laugh:Hate to say it but it is nice for a hobbyist to be able to acquire somewhat serviceable pullers without getting a 2nd mortgage on the house. All mine took years to acquire at yard sales and etc for short money.
By the way, I'm not convinced oil [WD-40, diesel and etc.] will have any effect in "breaking loose" a rusted on collar on a shaft. Yes, it sure helps a lot after the stuck part has moved even a tiny bit. As the two steel or cast parts are rusted together and ferric oxide in not in any way soluble in regular oil it would seem, to me, that it cannot have any effect in the very first movement. Ya, I know, damned near every can of oil from old Mystery Oil to the latest stuff on the shelf at Pep Boys proclaim that their oil "frees rested parts' or some such language. If I were making the stuff I'd put that on the label too.
Here is a method that some might want to try.
I have a number of old engines that date from 1907 to 1950. These things tend to have often been left in the rain and elements for half a century. No new parts are available so getting stuff apart without destroying things is of high importance. I use liquid soldering flux. Industrial strength stuff not the wimpy 'will not corrode' stuff from ACE Hardware. The flux chemically works on the oxides and "reduces" them to a different compound. A gentle heat from a torch speeds the process and boils off the flux. If done half a dozen times before resorting to reefing on a big puller or striking with a hammer it can save irreplaceable parts.
By the way, I'm not convinced oil [WD-40, diesel and etc.] will have any effect in "breaking loose" a rusted on collar on a shaft. Yes, it sure helps a lot after the stuck part has moved even a tiny bit. As the two steel or cast parts are rusted together and ferric oxide in not in any way soluble in regular oil it would seem, to me, that it cannot have any effect in the very first movement. Ya, I know, damned near every can of oil from old Mystery Oil to the latest stuff on the shelf at Pep Boys proclaim that their oil "frees rested parts' or some such language. If I were making the stuff I'd put that on the label too.
Here is a method that some might want to try.
I have a number of old engines that date from 1907 to 1950. These things tend to have often been left in the rain and elements for half a century. No new parts are available so getting stuff apart without destroying things is of high importance. I use liquid soldering flux. Industrial strength stuff not the wimpy 'will not corrode' stuff from ACE Hardware. The flux chemically works on the oxides and "reduces" them to a different compound. A gentle heat from a torch speeds the process and boils off the flux. If done half a dozen times before resorting to reefing on a big puller or striking with a hammer it can save irreplaceable parts.
Hate to say it but it is nice for a hobbyist to be able to acquire somewhat serviceable pullers without getting a 2nd mortgage on the house. All mine took years to acquire at yard sales and etc for short money.
By the way, I'm not convinced oil [WD-40, diesel and etc.] will have any effect in "breaking loose" a rusted on collar on a shaft. Yes, it sure helps a lot after the stuck part has moved even a tiny bit. As the two steel or cast parts are rusted together and ferric oxide in not in any way soluble in regular oil it would seem, to me, that it cannot have any effect in the very first movement. Ya, I know, damned near every can of oil from old Mystery Oil to the latest stuff on the shelf at Pep Boys proclaim that their oil "frees rested parts' or some such language. If I were making the stuff I'd put that on the label too.
Here is a method that some might want to try.
I have a number of old engines that date from 1907 to 1950. These things tend to have often been left in the rain and elements for half a century. No new parts are available so getting stuff apart without destroying things is of high importance. I use liquid soldering flux. Industrial strength stuff not the wimpy 'will not corrode' stuff from ACE Hardware. The flux chemically works on the oxides and "reduces" them to a different compound. A gentle heat from a torch speeds the process and boils off the flux. If done half a dozen times before resorting to reefing on a big puller or striking with a hammer it can save irreplaceable parts.
By the way, I'm not convinced oil [WD-40, diesel and etc.] will have any effect in "breaking loose" a rusted on collar on a shaft. Yes, it sure helps a lot after the stuck part has moved even a tiny bit. As the two steel or cast parts are rusted together and ferric oxide in not in any way soluble in regular oil it would seem, to me, that it cannot have any effect in the very first movement. Ya, I know, damned near every can of oil from old Mystery Oil to the latest stuff on the shelf at Pep Boys proclaim that their oil "frees rested parts' or some such language. If I were making the stuff I'd put that on the label too.
Here is a method that some might want to try.
I have a number of old engines that date from 1907 to 1950. These things tend to have often been left in the rain and elements for half a century. No new parts are available so getting stuff apart without destroying things is of high importance. I use liquid soldering flux. Industrial strength stuff not the wimpy 'will not corrode' stuff from ACE Hardware. The flux chemically works on the oxides and "reduces" them to a different compound. A gentle heat from a torch speeds the process and boils off the flux. If done half a dozen times before resorting to reefing on a big puller or striking with a hammer it can save irreplaceable parts.