Smog pump supercharger

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
A raptor starter nut is 24mm OD and this 120mm wide cog belt has a 25mm ID

I’ll be replacing the 4” driver v-belt pulley with a 4.5” ebay cog belt pulley.

Then removing the smog pumps driven 5.5” v-belt pulley and also replacing it with one of these 4.5” cog belt pulleys.

I’ll need a 16mm wide belt and I have to ditch the pullstart with the raptor starter nut. But having the cog belt and pulleys will help make it look the part.





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Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
Ya but how is he gonna space out the pulley from the flywheel??

Well I put about 37 seconds of thought into it and figured I could weld a pulley to a raptor starter nut? These engines can be started with an old school beefy drill with the ratchet attachment
Exactly! I have said on this forum before building this stuff is predictable! Or maybe they are right history repeats itself.

Elsberg-tuning.dk did not explain it the best. So that’s why I could not find this specific pump Pictured below. I hadn’t created it for my own use yet.

In the picture below is the elsberg websight owners custom supercharger pump he built and used himself for years. I just never figured out that he put a custom ebay cog pulley on a smog pump to make it look more the part. 300F3A1F-8C1D-429A-873F-8AC48F0F5391.png
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Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
I got that raptor and it came with 2 billet flywheels and I already had an arc 3hp billet flywheel. I put a billet flywheel on each engine of the duel engine kart and now have a 3rd spare to put on the supercharged engine. I also got the hl Tillotson manifold made.

I purchased the incorrect ARC bracket and modified it. I finally purchased the correct adjustable coil bracket from eBay.

Last i got a kick out of spinning the pump by hand. With both valves open slightly it blows tons of air out of the exhaust. Finally gonna test it with a butterfly carb that won‘t stick wide open.

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Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
The mini bike jackshaft was easy to cut and form to an HR Tillotson manifold based off the gasket. Some tube that matches the pump inlet port directly formed over the bigger manifold tube easily. Last I welded a socket exstension off of the gm alternator tensioner and wrapped a clamp around the intake and extension as a carburetor brace. Super happy with how simple and easy this manifold was. 9615381F-C4F7-41B2-AB28-9C5623E28407.jpeg 9835CD64-8F06-4E37-8AB0-AAFE532E901D.jpeg 4F90DAA6-7EC9-42E3-A0FA-FBCDA431AA5E.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
Have you tried Auto Zone or Oreilly?
The pumps ran on cars/trucks long enough to never really be a problem I guess. And both bearings and the veins show up on eBay often. I have a spare set of bearings for the pump and when I finally pick up a set of veins I’ll have a rebuild kit I doubt I’ll ever need. The drive ratio is already close to what was on cars normally. 49EF3A23-8617-435F-9CC9-0242FFE68DD0.jpeg
 

Thepaetsguy

Well-Known Member
Where to start? I changed the shroud out for one from a 5hp. I purchased the wrong arc bracket for like $25 and the correct ones are $12 one eBay.. I got my bracket and everything is buttoned up.

It’s terrifying I poured some gas down the throat of the tillotson and it fired right off and went into burn down rpm’s instantly. I had the idle set WAY to high thankfully fuel wasn’t connected..

I did play around with the idle a bit and got it pretty much dialed to where it’s not running away anymore.. None of the very nice and proper neighbors wanna hear my shenanigans at 10pm on a Monday so i’m callin it a night. 81D56A93-DD5B-435C-BBFA-BA8915C2E627.jpeg 59456547-9727-4B7E-88D3-5F6366E96BA9.jpeg 4311A717-5EE4-4FBF-A45D-2A9B3714B679.jpeg
 
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